[FIXED] Another Kenmore Dryer problem

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Jake

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Jake:

My Kenmore electric dryer won't continue running unless I keep pressing the start button. I replaced the control board but apparently that's not the problem. My dryer has both a heater relay and a motor relay. Should I replace both or just the motor relay? Thanks.
Hi,

What you need to do first is switch the heater & motor relay around, then turn on your dryer, if it runs good, you will need a new 3405281 Motor Relay.

Jake
 

caliamara

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Fried Even Heat Board in Kenmore Elite 110.73942101

Hello--
My Even Heat board is fried in my Kenmore Elite gas dryer model # 110.73942101.

I saw the scorching on the board (which probably came from me holding down the button when the dryer wouldn't stay on after I let go of the start button :cool: ) while the repair guy had the machine open. Trying to save me some money, he bypassed the Even Heat function on the board so the dryer would run again using the timed setting only. This worked great for a few weeks but now... the dryer will run but without any heat. The burner does not kick on... its as if it is running on "air fluff."

I have already paid $64 for the repair guy to visit and reroute the wiring to bypass the Even Heat function. He said it would cost $200+ to replace the board. I spoke with him again yesterday and he suggested I buy a new dryer if I could find one for $250 or less (I can but I don't want to because this was a great dryer!) The repair guy also told me that the wiring is only bypassing the Even Heat function but the board is still involved in the operation so the board may have fried some more leading to its current failure to kick the burner on.

Can all of you EXPERTS please help me with the following questions?
  1. Is the theory that the board may have gotten worse (leading to the new failureof the burner to kick on) viable?
  2. If not, how likely is it that the dryer still may not heat up after I change the board?
  3. If I do change the board, how will I know where to attach the wires (since they are currently rerouted)?
  4. Should I just forget trying to fix the dryer myself and:
    1. Call him out again and pay the exhorbitant price to repair the unit?
    2. Junk the dryer and buy a new one?
I would really love to benefit from the encouragement and skillful direction provided here on this board, like so many others, but would absolutely hate to waste $100 on a new board and still have to go buy another dryer.

Please, please, please... what would you do if you were me??? :eek:

Thank you in advance!
Cali
 

Jake

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Hello--
My Even Heat board is fried in my Kenmore Elite gas dryer model # 110.73942101.

I saw the scorching on the board (which probably came from me holding down the button when the dryer wouldn't stay on after I let go of the start button :cool: ) while the repair guy had the machine open. Trying to save me some money, he bypassed the Even Heat function on the board so the dryer would run again using the timed setting only. This worked great for a few weeks but now... the dryer will run but without any heat. The burner does not kick on... its as if it is running on "air fluff."

I have already paid $64 for the repair guy to visit and reroute the wiring to bypass the Even Heat function. He said it would cost $200+ to replace the board. I spoke with him again yesterday and he suggested I buy a new dryer if I could find one for $250 or less (I can but I don't want to because this was a great dryer!) The repair guy also told me that the wiring is only bypassing the Even Heat function but the board is still involved in the operation so the board may have fried some more leading to its current failure to kick the burner on.

Can all of you EXPERTS please help me with the following questions?
  1. Is the theory that the board may have gotten worse (leading to the new failureof the burner to kick on) viable?
  2. If not, how likely is it that the dryer still may not heat up after I change the board?
  3. If I do change the board, how will I know where to attach the wires (since they are currently rerouted)?
  4. Should I just forget trying to fix the dryer myself and:
    1. Call him out again and pay the exhorbitant price to repair the unit?
    2. Junk the dryer and buy a new one?
I would really love to benefit from the encouragement and skillful direction provided here on this board, like so many others, but would absolutely hate to waste $100 on a new board and still have to go buy another dryer.

Please, please, please... what would you do if you were me??? :eek:

Thank you in advance!
Cali
Hi,

Unless you watched him reroute the wiring, It almost impossible for us to tell you were that wiring went. Its likely your heat relay burned out due to him rewiring it. This is something I would never do myself.

Since you already paid him $64 and then you would have to pay $200 for a board plus more for a relay, its better to just start over, and put that repair money into a new dryer.

A word of warning to others, Never let a tech. rewire these, or never rewire it yourself, it only causes more problems.

Jake
 

DaveFromIndy

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Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
Any ideas?

First, thanks to all who have posted messages. I took the info and ran with it - replacing the control board. Unfortunately, it still doesn't work. As I have been doing further troubleshooting I have been summarizing things. See below, and thanks for the help!

Kenmore dryer model 110.63952102

Dryer would only run if PushToStart (PTS) button held in place. Did not notice if heat was still working when PTS was held. Did not tape down or hold PTS in start position for extended period.

Removed Even Heat Control Board (EHCB) and found resistor "R2" nicely toasted. Some capacitors looked bad as well. Board was the 5-diode type. Old EHCB part number: 3978954

Ordered new design EHCB, part number 8546229 from RepairClinic.com for $97.90. Installed new board and found same problem - only runs when PTS held. Then noticed no heat while PTS held. Timer was on "Timed Dry" with 20 minutes to go, heat on high and end of cycle buzzer on low.

Note: when PTS is held, motor starts and a clicking is heard. The clicking is like a relay picking up. When the PTS is released, there is a clicking that seems like it could be the same relay dropping out. The clicking seems to come from down near the motor - not up at the console.

Swapped heater relay for motor relay. No change. Swapped them back to original position. Noted that no 48 VDC at either relay coil.

Thermister tested per specifications (roughly 70F in the house = reading of roughly 11.9 K-Ohms).

Thermal Fuse showed continuity (closed = good).

High Limit Thermostat showed continuity (closed = good)

Thermal Cut-Off showed continuity (closed = good)

Wondering if both the motor relay and heater relay could both be bad, I decided to make the motor relay connection myself - that is, I took the wires off the contact terminals of the motor relay and taped them together with electrical tape. As soon as I plugged in the dryer, the motor ran and continued to run without pushing the PTS button. FWIW, I heard the same clicking as before - what I have been assuming is a relay picking up.

So, it looks like I am not getting power to the coils of the relays. The 48 VDC would come from the EHCB, correct? I'm trying to think of what would prevent a functional EHCB from allowing the 48 VDC to be sent to the relay(s) - at least things I haven't tested. I guess the new board could be bad.

Can anyone confirm if I got the correct board?

Any ideas for additional troubleshooting? I'm handy with a meter, so I don't mind looking some more. :confused:

Thanks again,

Dave
 

sbachmeier

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Location
Middleton, WI
Thank you, Appliance Blog Forums!

A big shout-out to those of you on this fantastic forum that helped me fix my Kenmore Elite EvenHeat 110.73932 102 dryer! I had the classic "dryer stops after Push To Start button is released" issue, and when I took apart the top of the dryer, sure enough my control board had the tell-tale burnt resistor and bulging capacitors that NoTalent showed a photo of early in this post. So I ordered the new EvenHeat control board (Part number 8546229, Item number 1028313) from RepairClinic.com for $106.37 (including shipping)...and after installing the new board tonight, the dryer works. Mission Accomplished! Thanks everyone!

Alas, I am going to miss all the nice friends I met during the past week at the neighborhood coin-operated laundry though...
 

MostlyMagic

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Jul 12, 2007
Messages
5
Location
Los Angeles area
Still can't remove the front panel

This is a great resource as is repairclinic. I'm having a problem, have ordered the control panel but can't figure out how to remove the panel to replace it. I see there are instructions here about using a putty knife to get it out, but try for the life of me, I can't seem to get this to work.

I have the kenmore dryer model
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] 110.73932102. It's about 4 years old, maybe.

Here's a shot of the top console I'm trying to open, dryer.jpg below.

I also am showing a close up where I guess the putty knife is supposed to go? Except I'm not getting any results, it hits something very hard and not budging.

Any suggestions? Many thanks.



[/FONT]
 

sbachmeier

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Middleton, WI
I just used a flat-blade screwdriver and placed its tip flush with the edge of the white plastic end caps, and gave the screwdriver a sharp whack outward -- the white plastic end caps popped off rather easily!
 

jinhao

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Oct 9, 2007
Messages
3
Location
Virginia
I read through this entire thread and have a lot to try out but I have a few questions that I don't feel like were addressed.

I have model 110.63942101 electric. Same main problem where the dryer won't stay on unless i press the start button. I also have no heat but the motor spins

If one of the relays (either motor or heat) is defective, it can cause the dryer to malfucntion in this manner (not staying on)? or would it be only the control board that causes this behavior?

if so, I'm going to first do the relay swap to see if its the heat relay (since i get no heat) if switching the motor and heat relays and i get heat... the motor shouldn't turn the barrell then, right?
 

Jake

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Yes, try the relay swap first and let us know what happens.

Jake
 

jinhao

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cool i'll try it when i get home. i assume then the heater relay would potentially cause this problem and a defective motor relay would not?

thanks
 

Jake

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It could be either/or when it comes to those relays, just swap them and see what happens.:)

Let us know the outcome.:)

Jake
 

jinhao

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Location
Virginia
ok so I swapped the motor relay and the heater relay. it did the same thing. drum spun but no heat.

the control board has no sign of burn or overheating.

i recall someone saying that even tho there are no burn marks it still could be bad? anything else I should check before i order the part?
 

Jake

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kenandcar

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chicago
Ok, I bought myself a thermistor (which looks completely different from the picture from the recommended post) and now i need to figure out where the heck it goes! I am assuming i need to take the back panel off, but I can't figure out how.

The new thermistor I got is white, with a pointy thing in the middle of the circle, and the pictured one in the "order this one" is black, and seems to have a long piece instead of the pointy one in the circle. The spade connections seem to be the same. Help?
 

Jake

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Ok, I bought myself a thermistor (which looks completely different from the picture from the recommended post) and now i need to figure out where the heck it goes! I am assuming i need to take the back panel off, but I can't figure out how.

The new thermistor I got is white, with a pointy thing in the middle of the circle, and the pictured one in the "order this one" is black, and seems to have a long piece instead of the pointy one in the circle. The spade connections seem to be the same. Help?
Ok, lets start with the model# of your dryer - Its located inside the dryer door.

We also need the part# of that thermistor you got.

Jake
 

kenandcar

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chicago
The model number is 110.72992101. According to the repair parts list, the piece is Illustration Number 42, and the part number is The manufacturer has replaced part 3976615 with part 8577274.
HOWEVER....I called Repair Clinic.com to see what was up with the piece they sent me, and it turns out that the part is stocked by a different distributor, and it looks a little different from the pic on the website. But the customer service rep assured me that it works just the same. And it does! (so far...)
Once again, a $23 part saved me a hundred. Thanks Jake!
(this is the part i'm talking about: Thermistor 8577274)
 

Jake

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Sounds like you got it! Good job, thanks for the update.:)

Jake
 

Artie

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Jacksonville, Fl
Hi everyone. I didn't find this cool forum, (of course), until my own "Evenheat" dryer died. Kinda glad it did, now. Seems like a nice, informative place. Anyway, I thought I might share my own experiences with this debacle with ya'll.

I'm an electronics technician at heart, doing so for the last 40-something years. I do mostly avionics for the Navy, but my love is guitar wiring. I dabble in appliances only when the need calls.

My "Evenheat" circuit board looks exactly like the one in the first post, and my symptom is the same. I did a little "reverse-engineering" of the circuit board, and here's what I find:

Note: This is purely an FYI moment. I doubt that many people will want to try to change individual components on the board, but since so many people have asked, I thought you might like some insight as to why this is happening in the first place.

Here's the basic circuit, as it applies to the "burnt" components only:

(click to enlarge)
Evenheat01.png

As I said, this isn't the whole circuit, just the part that fails. The three components, C2, C25, and R2 are what you see burnt & boiled on the board. Q2 is what you don't see. It's damage is internal. Sadly, Whirlpool decided to use a string of cheap zener diodes in lieu of a proper transformer. Those diodes, purchased at the volume that Whirlpool can buy, probably cost 2 or 3 cents each. A proper transformer would have been several dollars. :confused:

So, when one zener goes, (opens up), the rest of the circuit gets full voltage. The two caps, C2 and C25, which are only rated at 63 volts, get closer to 75. They boil . . . like you've seen. C25 gets its voltage through R2 and Q2. R2 burns up, while Q2 welds itself internally. The big blue "dot", (near the base of Q4), represents one of the microprocessor outputs. While the processor may still work, Q4 no longer has the voltage it needs to supply to the motor relay . . . and it doesn't turn on.

As a quick side note, holding down the PTS switch won't hurt anything, contrary to previous posts. If you look carefully at the supplied schematic, (inside the dryer panel), you'll see that that switch is simply in parallel with the motor relay contact. The only purpose of the motor relay is so that the microprocessor can "push its own switch" so to speak, for the "Wrinkle Guard" function.

The prime cause of this whole fiasco, (maybe), is that people start a dryer load, then go to bed, or go shopping, and leave the "wrinkle guard" function active. The dryer sits for hours, hitting its own PTS button. Not good.

Note: It could be good if Whirlpool hadn't scrimped on the cheesey power supply.

Anyway . . . I'm starting to ramble. :rolleyes:

I'll continue to investigate this a bit more, and will let you know how my "component replacement" goes . . . not that you'll do that. :)

Peace;
Artie

Edit: R2 should be 4.6k
 
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