[FIXED] Another Kenmore Dryer problem

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Jake

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Thanks Artie, Good detailed information is always welcome on why components fail.:)

If I owned Whirlpool, I would hire you as our lead engineer and you could make the board the right way, I know cost would be abit higher, but the failure rate would be extremely low compared to what it is now, thus more satisfied customers coming back to buy more Kenmore/Whirlpool appliances.

And I wouldn't need all those millions of dollars as a CEO, and thus build things to last a long time again.:)

Jake
 

Artie

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Just a little update. I was finally able to check the components on the board more thoroughly. There's many more parts "blown" than meets the eye. It really isn't practical to try and repair the board.

Most of you probably already knew that. :p
 

radi0chik

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Actually i *DID* repair my board by replacing the 2 caps and the resistor (mine looked identical to some of the pictures posted). That didn't fix my problem, so I looked deeper and found that indeed the motor start relay switch was bad. Swapping it with the heater one made the dryer start up and run just fine. So now I'm awaiting a new relay switch. After that it should be back to normal.
 

prosp

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First off, thanks to all that have contributed to this thead.

Here is my issue:

We bought a Kenmore Elite Model # 110.63942101 in March of 2003. Just a couple of days ago, we experienced the infamous "Push to Start" issue. I found this thread and opened the control panel. The control board did not look fried, but I ordered a replacement anyway.

The replacement control board did not fix the issue. I have swapped the heat and motor relays, and I still have the problem. I even swapped back the original control board with the swapped relays, and still have the problem.

Where do I go from here?

TIA!
 

Jake

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First off, thanks to all that have contributed to this thead.

Here is my issue:

We bought a Kenmore Elite Model # 110.63942101 in March of 2003. Just a couple of days ago, we experienced the infamous "Push to Start" issue. I found this thread and opened the control panel. The control board did not look fried, but I ordered a replacement anyway.

The replacement control board did not fix the issue. I have swapped the heat and motor relays, and I still have the problem. I even swapped back the original control board with the swapped relays, and still have the problem.

Where do I go from here?

TIA!
Hi,

The only other part that would cause this is the thermistor, its #42 here:
(click to enlarge)
P0203276-00003.jpg

It mounts on the blower wheel housing, and sits next to the white thermal fuse.

Remove the two #3 screws to take off the #45 lint duct assembly to get good access to it.

Here's the one for your model:
Thermistor 8577274 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com


The lower access panel uncilps as you can see here, two clips on each side, I use a putty knife and push-in on the two clips:
(click to enlarge)
ldrwp4r-panel-off2.jpg


Jake
 

prosp

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Jake - is there any way to look at the thermistor to see if it is damaged/defective?
 

Jake

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Yes,

You need an ohm meter to test it. Unplug your dryer first of course.:)

To ohm test the thermistor, it should read about 10K ohms at room temperature 77 degrees.

Jake
 

prosp

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I just replaced the thermistor and still no luck. :confused: (For others trying this, be sure to remove the lint screen before you take off the lint duct assemby!)

I took a look at the new board, and it looks slightly different that the old board. Should they be identical??
 
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Jake

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Here's the control board for your model:
Whirlpool W10116565 Electronic Control Board


To make sure were on the same page, when you push the start button the dryer runs, then when you let go of the start button, it turns off?

Jake
 

prosp

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Jake - correct, I push start and the dryer runs, but as soon as I let go, the dryer turns off.

I ordered the control board from the same retailer in your link.

Robert
 

Jake

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Thats very strange, that its still not working, as you can see in this thread many have had great success with changing the control or the motor relay's.

Did you measure for 48VDC volts at your motor relay?

One other thing in the diagnosing is that there should be 48VDC at the motor relay. I usually check for that when I have this symptom. I usually find when I press the start button, the drum turns but I am not getting 48VDC on the two pink wires at the motor relay. If I do get 48VDC then I would suspect the motor relay. Note: that you may read 48VDC or - 48VDC depending on which way you place the test leads of your meter.
Courtesy of http://www.applianceaid.com/evenheat.html

Also I found another member that had a similar problem like your having, read post#10 here:
http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/showthread.php?t=11875
He find some wires that connect to the motor that were corroded, he cleaned them up and that did the trick.

Jake
 

scoobysmak

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Well after reading all the problems I figure it couldn't hurt to post mine here as well. I have a <st1>Kenmore</st1> "Elite" electric dryer Model # 110.63956101. This is the first time I ever bought a warranty for any item and glad I did. Unfortunately after five years it has ran out along with a working dryer. In the first repair the "Even Heat" board was replaced. The second call, one of the relays went bad. For the past couple of years it worked fine until now.

At this moment the dryer starts and turns but no heat. I checked the thermistor and according to my Volt/Ohm meter it was bad (complete open). I ordered a new one and installed it today. It appears I have another problem all together. I have the exact same symptoms as before. Will run with no heat. Last time I think it beeped 3 times and quit after a couple of minutes but I didn't investigate this any further due to the no heat problem. Now it will run forever with no heat regardless of what it did before.

Things I have checked. I do have 240V at the dryer (I checked this where the cord is screwed into the back of the control panel). The thermal fuse is good. The heating element reads around 10 Ohms, again good. The high limit thermostat was checked; the first time I tested it read an open but the second time it read a short (I assume this should read a short if it is at room temp). This part does rattle a bit if you shake it so at this moment it would be my primary culprit. Honestly I do not know enough about the thermal cut off or the high limit thermostat to know if they are bad or not. I did not even attempt to remove the thermal cut off.

The other thing I have done is turned the dryer on and read the voltage at the heating element, it was 0 Volts, should be 240V if I read most of the information I have found correctly (I extended the wires to test this so I would not get mangled by the rotating drum, make sure you do not let them touch). My next test was to swap the motor relay with the heater relay. The motor started and still no heat. I did get the 48V on the relay but just to make sure I swapped them anyway. At this moment I am a bit stumped. I know it is part of the heating circuit but unfortunately I do not have the wiring diagram. My guess is the first tech that came out took that with him.

I do not believe it is the magic “Even Heat” board due to mine being replaced (plus it still looks new, not like a barbeque got a hold of it). With out the wiring diagram I am a bit lost of what goes where and when. So before I shoot from hip just wonder does anyone one have a suggestion of what it sounds like or some other test to run to ensure I have the correct problem.
 
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Jake

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Well after reading all the problems I figure it couldn't hurt to post mine here as well. I have a <ST1>Kenmore</ST1> "Elite" electric dryer Model # 110.63956101. This is the first time I ever bought a warranty for any item and glad I did. Unfortunately after five years it has ran out along with a working dryer. In the first repair the "Even Heat" board was replaced. The second call, one of the relays went bad. For the past couple of years it worked fine until now.

At this moment the dryer starts and turns but no heat. I checked the thermistor and according to my Volt/Ohm meter it was bad (complete open). I ordered a new one and installed it today. It appears I have another problem all together. I have the exact same symptoms as before. Will run with no heat. Last time I think it beeped 3 times and quit after a couple of minutes but I didn't investigate this any further due to the no heat problem. Now it will run forever with no heat regardless of what it did before.

Things I have checked. I do have 240V at the dryer (I checked this where the cord is screwed into the back of the control panel). The thermal fuse is good. The heating element reads around 10 Ohms, again good. The high limit thermostat was checked; the first time I tested it read an open but the second time it read a short (I assume this should read a short if it is at room temp). This part does rattle a bit if you shake it so at this moment it would be my primary culprit. Honestly I do not know enough about the thermal cut off or the high limit thermostat to know if they are bad or not. I did not even attempt to remove the thermal cut off.

The other thing I have done is turned the dryer on and read the voltage at the heating element, it was 0 Volts, should be 240V if I read most of the information I have found correctly (I extended the wires to test this so I would not get mangled by the rotating drum, make sure you do not let them touch). My next test was to swap the motor relay with the heater relay. The motor started and still no heat. I did get the 48V on the relay but just to make sure I swapped them anyway. At this moment I am a bit stumped. I know it is part of the heating circuit but unfortunately I do not have the wiring diagram. My guess is the first tech that came out took that with him.

I do not believe it is the magic “Even Heat” board due to mine being replaced (plus it still looks new, not like a barbeque got a hold of it). With out the wiring diagram I am a bit lost of what goes where and when. So before I shoot from hip just wonder does anyone one have a suggestion of what it sounds like or some other test to run to ensure I have the correct problem.
Hi,

Its likely you thermal cut-off is bad.

Here's the thermal cut-off#47 for your model:
Manufacturer's Number: 279769

279769




Jake
 

scoobysmak

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It looks like both come together, I think I will just replace both of them. I may do it one at a time starting with the thermal cut off just to see if I have a good spare part in the future. I will let you know if it works. I would like to get the parts tomorrow, even if it will cost me more. I would like to take a vacation for the 4th and have a working dryer before Monday. Not sure if Sears or some other local dealer may carry these parts. Thanks for the help.
 

Jake

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Ok, Yes, this is a common part, so Sears or any appliance parts store in your area should have it, it will cost more, but you'll have it tomorrow.:)

Jake
 

scoobysmak

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As Paul Harvey would have said...here is the rest of the story. I bought the thermal cut off and the high limit thermostat came with it. I replaced the thermal cut off first and attempted to find some heat. No luck, now I was like well time to replace the high limit thermostat. When I grabbed one of the terminals I pulled it off but the wire felt "funny", I should have noticed this two days ago. I ohm checked the wire and it was an open, this happens to be the wire from the thermal cut off to the high limit thermostat.

Here in south FL I guess the humidity and heat took a toll and this wire was a nice green color, not good (my washer and dryer are in the garage, not in the A/C). I replaced the wire and ran it, I now have heat. My worry now is how many other wires may be in the same condition as the one I found, or worse could the washing machine be next. I do wonder what the life span difference of a washer and dryer indoors Vs. being in the garage, just wondering if I ever decied to build my own home. Thanks for all the help.
 

Jake

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Good job finding that open wire.:) Glad its working good again.:)

Yea, Appliances have more strain when there out in a garage or shed, rather than inside a laundry room in a A/C home.

Happy 4th of July!

Jake
 

MusDir2

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Aug 20, 2008
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Location
Illinois
Similar but different

Hey there!

I have a Kenmore Elite model number 11072952100 and I have the same problem, but with a few additional symptoms, so I wanted to check before just changing the board. When you first turn on the dryer, it will run for as little as two minutes and as long as a whole cycle, but eventually it will sound three quick beeps and shet down. The timer will continue to run. After that, the dryer will only run when you push and hold the button. If you unplug the dryer and plug it back in, it resets and the whole cycle starts over. I think that the correct board for my dryer is 1378522. If it's just the board, or perhaps a board and thermistor, I'd like to get it ordered and get this process going. What do you think?

Nate
 

Jake

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