[FIXED] Drum Gasket and Rear Shell Bearings

[webbiz]

Bearing Repair on Frigidaire Front Loader

Hello. This is my first post ever here.

My Frigidaire Front Loader washer started making a racket during wash spin. I concluded that it must be the bearings. So for the first time ever, I took apart a washing machine.

When I removed the rear tub, I found the bearings broken into pieces. Well, that was a good call for a first-timer.

I've been searching the net for two days now looking for replacement bearings. Nothing. At the parts site, they tell me I have to buy the whole rear tub that comes with the bearings for about $200! Yikes!

The tub looks just fine. All I need are the bearings and those washers or whatever they were that came out of the tubs bearing hub packed in dark grease.

I've read about some who have gone out and bought high quality bearings to do just what I'm looking to do. How do you know what kind of bearings to buy for this? I'd rather buy high quality bearings if possible and pay less than buying the whole rear tub.

Does anyone here know whether I can do this?

If so, what bearings would be correct for this?

What else goes in there? Looks like 2 or three flat washers but with all the grease it was hard to tell.

What order do they go back in if I can buy these things?

And finally, what kind of grease should I use for this application?

Sorry for all the novice questions, but as stated, this is my first time tearing this down and I really want to do this right so I never have to do it again (at least for another 10 years!).

Thanks.

 

[webbiz]

BEARINGS for Frigidaire FWT647GHS0

Someone suggested these bearings in a previous post:

• These items:
  
• Koyo 6307 2RSC3 Single Row Sealed Deep Groove Radial Ball Bearing.
• Koyo 6306 2RSC3 Single Row Sealed Deep Groove Radial Ball Bearing.
• National 40X80X10 Double Lip Spring-loaded Nitrile Oil Seal.

My question is, will these work for my Frigidaire Front Loader FWT647GHS0 as well?

I would REALLY like to replace the bearings rather than the whole rear tub assembly if possible. Paying $200 is a bit much for this old machine (that still looks so new).

Thanks.

Webbiz

 

[webbiz]

Ah, forget it. I just went out and bought a new top loader agitator model.

 

[Jake]

Sorry no one replied, usually they do, everyone must of been busy with getting there kids back in school this time of year.

I'll refund your $5 Membership fee.

Jake

 

[I can fix it]

Lg and Samsung make the best frontloader now by far. In fact the new Samsung has this VRT technology (vibration reduction technology) that makes it so stable it's incredible. Front loaders main complaint is jumping around in spin. I saw a new one in a cust home and raised the right front foot up to make it wobble, unlevel, it had a load of towels in it. It rocked for about 8 seconds during ramp and completely stabalized! It was incredible. I'm a whirlpool Kenmore guy, but the Samsung is impressive and would be the one I'd buy.

 

[Jake]

Yes, but getting service from LG and Samsung is less than stellar, I had someone in my area call me last week to ask If I worked on LG, I said no. They said they don't have anyone here in the Eugene/Springfield area(population here is 300,000+) they have to send a tech. down from Portland, thats 100 miles away.

So if you don't live in a major city over 1,000,000 population, I'd stick with Sears Kenmore(model#'s starting with 110), Whirlpool, Maytag or Frigidaire.

Jake

 

[UncleTom]

Hi all, I've been reading this thread off and on for two days now, because of course my Fridgidaire front loader was leaking. After having the local repair shop say "we don't have the tools to fix that" I found this thread and read up on it. I now realize the shop didn't want to work on it because there is no money in it for them.

At any rate, my machine is now in about 47 pieces--problem one is that I still can't confirm where the leak was coming from (it was pouring out the front right side) the seal between the hub halves looks fine, and the rear bearing seal is in one piece.

I thought I was in good shape with the 'tri-arm' as it looked fine. I proceeded to remove it from the drum so I could clean it up and paint it. Got out the pressure washer to spray it down, and the hub started melting away!! Must warn all who come after, that it can look fine, even stand up to a certain amount of scraping, but be compromised!!

Now trying to figure out how to proceed. Anyone got a tri-arm out there?

And of course still not knowing for sure where the leak is coming from there remains the possibility of getting it back together and still having it leak.

Any ideas/advice?

 

[Jake]

I can't help you with the tri-arm because they only sell that with the inner tub, but your leak on the right front is either the drain motor or tub seal, yes even if the tub seal looks fine, it can still be worn enough to leak.

But your saying its pouring out? Usually when the tub seal leaks its a rather slow drip drip leak, not a gusher leak.

A gusher pouring out leak would indicate the drain motor or rubber hose from the tub to the drain motor has a hole in it.

Jake

 

[UncleTom]

Hi Jake, I meant the OTHER right. Yeah, actually the leak was on the LEFT side in the front. And apparently it had been going on for awhile as there was a fair amount of rust on the inside of the lower panel.

The funny thing about the leak was that it continued on for quite awhile after the cycle was done. The clothes were dry in the tub and yet the water kept coming.

I guess I opened a whole can of worms with taking the tri arm off--but somewhere in this thread I read about someone finding a shop that would order the tub/arm assembly presumably under warranty just for shipping. And now I haven't been able to find that post.

And then there's the question of replacing the bearings and seal, all of which look and feel fine.

But anyway, if you have any ideas about the leak now that I've got my lefts and rights straight, maybe that'll end up making up my mind on these other issues.

 

[Jake]

Its just still likely the tub seal thats leaking, unless you have plenty of time on your hands and up for a challenge, then fix it per this thread.

Otherwise retire it and buy a new washer.

Jake

 

[feanor17]

Hi, I have a Kenmore 41741142000 will these bearings and seal fit?
I stopped using it and pulled it apart before the plastic tub got damaged.
Also do you have the National part number for the seal? It is not listed as 40x80x10.
The only local listing I can find sells seals made in China.
I can get the bearings at www.cawdc.com they are not far from home.

• These items:
  
• Koyo 6307 2RSC3 Single Row Sealed Deep Groove Radial Ball Bearing.
• Koyo 6306 2RSC3 Single Row Sealed Deep Groove Radial Ball Bearing.
• National 40X80X10 Double Lip Spring-loaded Nitrile Oil Seal.

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Thank You,
Ned

 

[richberman]

Your seal is effectively the same one as mine, they list the one you and I bought as interchangeable stock numbers..

when you say it does not have the 'rubber middle section'.. you mean that your old one looked like one thick solid piece of rubber, but your new one looks hollow in the middle? If that's what you mean, then nothing is missing. The old one was just a solid piece of rubber. The new one is steel reinforced nitrile. click this link; if this looks something like your seal, it's right..

Product Datasheet for 15872

I was wondering about the shell seal as well. It looks to be in good shape and didn't leak, but I was thinking about putting in Loctite Instant Gasket.. the only problem with adding any type of sealing material is that if you need to open the thing ever again, you will have a hell of a time getting it apart! That gasket is probably just better off if you clean off any crusties and put it back in, as long as it isn't completely flattened, in which case it should be replaced.

I too wondered about the instructions that said to remove the boot. I have got the drum out the back without removing the boot from the front and wondered if I couldn't just put it back in the reverse of how it came out. I haven't done it yet so I can't answer your question.. maybe someone else can tell us both?

I just got the "hollow" version of the seal and was wondering if it matters which direction it is inserted. I tried it with the flat side toward the inside tub, but the little wire spring popped out when I pressed the seal into the housing and I couldn't get the spring reseated, so I removed the seal and reversed the position. Now the lip (and hollow side) and spring are on the inner tub side and if the spring comes off it can easily be replaced, but I wonder if the seal will work in this configuration?
thanks....before I get it back together again.
rich

 

[feanor17]

Product Datasheet for 15872 This link is for an out dated part # CR-562737 is the new number.

Problem, this seal has a standard spring which will rust.

And yes you install it spring side to the fluid to be sealed against. In this case soapy water.
CR-562739 has the stainless spring. SKF-562739 is also a good number for it, same company. Chicago Rawhide was bought out in 1990 by SKF.

I have been looking for this seal (not made in China for 5 days now) just found it.
With your help.

Searching for 40x80x10 dual lip seal just got me Chinese seals. My local bearing shop doesn't carry it. They had the bearings from Consolidated though.

Ned

 

[feanor17]

Sorry richberman I meant to address this post to you. The forum won't let me edit my own posts.
_________________________________________________________________

Product Datasheet for 15872 This link is for an out dated part # CR-562737 is the new number.

Problem, this seal has a standard spring which will rust.

And yes you install it spring side to the fluid to be sealed against. In this case soapy water.
CR-562739 has the stainless spring. SKF-562739 is also a good number for it, same company. Chicago Rawhide was bought out in 1990 by SKF.

I have been looking for this seal (not made in China for 5 days now) just found it.
With your help.

Searching for 40x80x10 dual lip seal just got me Chinese seals. My local bearing shop doesn't carry it. They had the bearings from Consolidated though.

Ned

 

[richberman]

Product Datasheet for 15872 This link is for an out dated part # CR-562737 is the new number.

Problem, this seal has a standard spring which will rust.

And yes you install it spring side to the fluid to be sealed against. In this case soapy water.
CR-562739 has the stainless spring. SKF-562739 is also a good number for it, same company. Chicago Rawhide was bought out in 1990 by SKF.

I have been looking for this seal (not made in China for 5 days now) just found it.
With your help.

Searching for 40x80x10 dual lip seal just got me Chinese seals. My local bearing shop doesn't carry it. They had the bearings from Consolidated though.

Ned

thanks feanor17. The good news is that I installed the seal correctly (I used skf#562736). See pic. I found it on Amazon from Hire's Automotive for $9.85. The bad news is that I didn't get your response until the reassembly was complete. I can now either wait for the spring to rust or open it all up again after ordering the correct part.....
I think I'll wait since it's now a second, backup washer. We couldn't wait for Sears to send the new warrantied inner tub. So now I've got a nice new Maytag front loader and a better than new repaired Fridgidaire. I am attaching photos of my repair in the hopes it helps someone else. Two things I did not written about here:
1) I removed the spider by unscrewing the 6 bolts, then pryed off the spider. Then I primed and painted it on all sides, including the threaded holes and bolts with automotive POR15 primer and chassis paint. It went back together nicely. See picture of old, broke spider and new, painted one.
2) The other trick to make reassembling the clamp where the water enters is to take a 2 inch piece of soft copper (3/8") and flatten one end using pliers, just enough to allow the ends of the wires on the clamp to get iside the copper pipe. This can then be turned in order to both open or close the clamp ends easily. See picture of make shift clamp wire twisting tool attached.

 

[feanor17]

Nice pix richberman the clamp wire tool is a good idea. I just use pliers myself.

I need to find my purchase documents for the Kenmore and see if my inner tub is still under
warranty. I don't have mine fully disassembled yet. I have the plastic tub out, but I needed a
puller to get the pulley off. So between work and getting help back over here. I am waiting on
help now to take the plastic tub apart. I didn't take the concrete weights off & it is sitting pulley
side up. Hopefully my spider isn't in too bad a condition.

I like your painted spider [tri-arm].

I found an East Coast distributer for the SKF 562739 dual lip seal with stainless steel spring.
JBR 17 LLC in New Jersey.

Ned

 

[richberman]

Ned,
The inner tub has a lifetime warranty, but you have to pay $129 to have a Sears service tech come out to order it for you as Sears won't allow it to be ordered by you directly. My tech could not believe all of the parts I had on my floor and almost wouldn't order it since he didn't get to "hear" it before disassembly. He said he could not tell if that was the only problem or if it needed other parts. I explained that it was the easiest $129 he would make today since I would put it all back together once the part arrived, I would take responsibility for any other parts and I realized that the new tub would not not warrantied. He then ordered it and thanked me for an easy repair .

As far as the tool I made, it's easier to use for replacing the wire tie. Disassembly it pretty easy with the pliers. As you will read in the great pdf posted on this site, the tie is difficult to replace with pliers.

You don't need a puller to remove the pully. Just unscrew the bolt and juggle on the pully gently (it's aluminum) until it slides off. Mine came off easily. After you then unscrew the gizzillion bolts which hold the two plastic outer tub halves together you should be able to seperate the two halves pretty easily as well, although I have read that some people's are a bit tougher than mine was. Then you'll get to see the inner tub and aluminum (tri-arm) spider.

If it turns out your rear tub half needs replacing I can sell you my new one. I bought it before I figured out that it was the fractured tri-arm I needed. It's not returnable so I'd be willing to ship it in it's original box if you or anyone else wants it...bearings and seal attached!

I never took the front concrete weights off, just the rear one. And the soccerball or partially deflated basketball made re-installation much easier.

Good luck. Mine purrs like a kitten now.
rich

 

[feanor17]

richberman,
I got it apart. The Spider looks amazing for 9 years old! considering the pictures I have seen
posted. I am going to bead blast it, then paint it like yours.

I left the door seal attached to the front of the washer housing, so I never touched the water inlet.

The pulley didn't come loose till there was only 1/8" left on the shaft. I used a puller & a lot of
effort. It looks like the shaft had twisted and deformed the hole in the pulley slightly. The pulley
was still turning true before I took off the belt, so it was still centered. The pulley is soft.

The inner bearing was grinding, the outer one turned smoothly. Although the seal was leaking
grease & water out the back. What a mess! At lease nothing was grenaded. The inner seal
came right out. The bearings don't want to come out. I think there maybe rust sticking them
to the bore. I used a bearing puller & it started bending. When it got to the point I was putting
around 60ft ld's of tork on it. I stopped and spayed them down with PB-Blaster. Maybe they
will co-operate after I finish this post.

Your seal spring should last a few years. You of course won't know it has died till both
bearings have been hit with water. If you feel like messing with it, you mite be able to just
get the spring from bearing & seal shop in your town. Most people on this forum just used
a standard spring loaded seal or went with the cheap Frigidaire china seal. A spring loaded
seal can handle the vibration of an out of balance load, while the non spring loaded one can't.

And thanks but my inner and outer tubs are just fine.

Ned

 

[richberman]

Ned,
Did the PB-blaster work? I have read that a 50% mix of Automatic Transmission Fluid with acetone works better than any of the rust dissolvers on the market.
I used a 12" piece of rebar and a small sledge to tap (bang) out my failed bearing FWIW. Just make sure the tub is supported up on something smooth. I've read here about using wood blocks. I personally had a small moving dolly at hand.
Good luck,
rich

 

[duc_181]

HI all,
So I'm in a similar spot as Ned. Specifically the outer race of the inner bearing is seized in the bore. What I'd like to know is - Is there a steel sleeve, or bearing land, for the outer race that is pressed into the plastic bore. I see the sleeve for the outer bearing (since I got that one out) but I can't tell if there is a similar sleeve for the inner bearing.
Any help is appreciated, Thanks,
Scott