[FIXED] Drum Gasket and Rear Shell Bearings

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duc_181

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Is there a steel sleeve, or bearing land, for the outer race that is pressed into the plastic bore.
I'll answer my own question because I can now - because I got the inner bearing out! (Can't believe how hard I had to hit it - really seized!)

There is a sleeve for the inner bearing... it's one long piece that also incorporates the sleeve that supports the outer bearing's outer race. Fortunately, when removing the inner bearing, the sleeve is flush with the plastic bore, so there's no chance of catching the edge of it when you're trying to drift the race out... my original concern.

This thread is great (thanks all who have posted over the years). Now on to bearing installation and re-assembly!
Scott
 

Steve-O

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Installed seal backwards

After replacing my bearings and seal I just saw the last picture and it looks like I installed my seal backwards. Anyone know what that is going to mean? Is it worth the colossal PIA to take it apart again?
Thanks,
Steve
 

tangofox

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arkansas
i repaired my bearings using the info i got off this thread. thanks to all who posted tips and knowledge. my spider had a small crack in it i put it all back together and all was well for about 4 loads. then the noise returned. i took the whole thing apart again only to find that the spider on the back of the inner tub was cracked in all 3 places around the shaft and was flexable. I called sears and they said it wont be covered under warrentee? the inner tub with the spider. i have read in this forum numerous time that it is if you pay the 129 for the repairman to come out and order one. my modle number is 417.40042990. does anyone have any documentation that it is covered? I dont want and fear that when the repairman comes out he will say that it is not and i will have to pay him a 129 plus tax for doing nothing. the mechine is all apart. sears service supervisor said it isnt covered and that there will be charges. anyone been told the same thing then come to find out it is covered? i need some words of encouragement. thanks.
 

Jake

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tangofox

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thanks jake, i will call back that supervisor who told me it wasn't and tell her i now have the owners manual and the documentation it is covered.
 

Jake

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Yup, thats the thing to do.:)

Jake
 

tangofox

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well the repair guy just left. 138.68 bucks later i have my tub ordered. it will be shipped to my house and i will have to put the thing back together. hmmmm what did i pay 138.68 for? the funny thing about it was when he was here he said if you are brave enough to tackle this job repair are you looking for a job, we need repair techs. he then gave me a number and told me to drop his name to his boss. thanks again for all the imput i will soon have a working washer and maybe a new job, lol
 

Jake

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Yes, Sears now I guess is charging that service call amount to come out, but from what others say, that should also include the labor for the tech. to install it. Did the tech. not mention that?

Jake
 

biguggy

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Jake,
The manuals I have state that "You must pay the labor cost to have them installed."
What they do not tell you is that the 'policy' is that only a "Sears authorized technician" can perform the labor.
 
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biguggy

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Does anyone have a reason why these spiders corrode and the bearings/seal fail?
Could there be a link between the two?
Is there any way of preventing either the spider corroding or the bearings/seal failing?
 

Jake

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Jake,
The manuals I have state that "You must pay the labor cost to have them installed."
What they do not tell you is that the 'policy' is that only a "Sears authorized technician" can perform the labor.
Yes, I'm well aware of that.

Not much you can do unfortunately about that.

Jake
 

lloydofottawa

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Thanks for the instructions. I also found the push pins very stubborn (item 5 in your document). I found that I could push the lock pin and then get a "quick-grip" clamp to squeeze the pin most of the way out. See photos attached.IMG_1028.JPGIMG_1030.JPG
 

biguggy

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To lloydofottawa and others.
To remove the shock absorber pins I push the pin as far 'out' as possible without using any excess force, then put a 13mm 3 eighths square drive socket over the end and then use a one quarter inch square drive 'screwdriver' to push the pin out. Very quick and very simple., all four pins out in under two minutes. Should you have to 'do it again' I urge you to try it.
 
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Ronr533

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SO after many years finally my drum has broke. So here's my question. I have removed my drum and trying to decide if I should call Sears to come do the Service call for a new drum for $129 Service charge call or well assuming they will still do it. Now along with this I would replace my Bearings and Seal, Belt and maybe the shocks but they are not bad maybe just grease them(Has anyone ever tried that)
So after the service call $129 and the bearings maybe $75 to$100 id have close to $200-$250 so Should I just go buy a new Machine or fix the old one? This one is from about 2004 and has never had any problems till now.
I know If I get the new drum I will remove the yoke from the drum and prime and Paint it to keep it from rotting out but even still I take the risk of maybe the motor going bad or the motor control board.
If I go buy a new one am I buying another piece of crap or is there any others that are made stronger?
Any info or input would be great and thanks for all the folks who have posted about this machine and its problems
Ron
 

piston farmer

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Ok first off thanks to everyone for this thread! and now here is where im at;

I spent two hours on the phone yesterday with 8 to 10 different people in god only knows how many different countries. In the end sears told me that if i pay $110 bucks for a service tech to come out and verify that the basket and spider is broken then he would order me a new one under the warranty.

My question is I already have this thing apart and i would like to just show him the basket and spider and say yup its shot.
I shouldnt have to put it all back togthere so he can pull it apart him self should I? I really dont want to pay for a service call for them to say no were not going to cover it and I just blew $ 110 for nothing.
 

biguggy

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Hi piston farmer.
Unfortunately that is the way it is. Sears will make you pay for 'something' no matter what. The odds are, and Sears will not like have informed you of this, normally they will require an authorised service tech. to fit the replacement part(s) just to make sure that the job is done correctly, you will also have to pay for this!
It is normally cheaper to just swallow your pride and anger and get the spare parts at the best price that you can and do the job yourself, a little poorer and a lot wiser!
Should your model number start with 417. threre is a chance, as you are close to the Canadian border, that there MAY be a cheaper alternative. Should you wish to post the full model number I will let you know.
 

biguggy

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it is 417.40042990
OK That model is made by Frigidaire. Searspartsdirect.com give the following part numbers for your washer. You can check the yourself if you wish.
Basket (Which is the spider and drum), part #131618500 for US$221.09 plus S&H plus taxes
Tub Front (this is the front 'half' of the outet tub you may not need this) part # 131618600 for US$138.18 plus S&H plus taxes
Rear half outer (this is the rear half of the outer tub and comes complete with bearings [normally chinese] and seal) part #131462800 now substituted by 131525500 for US$ 181.10 plus S&H plus taxes.
These parts together with the pulley are(where) available from Sears parts warehouses in Canada only as part number 970134453200. Supposedly they are only available to technicians but several posts on different sites claim the poster has had no difficulty obtaining one with cash.
The last time I enquired as to the cost was in August of last year when the kit was C$229.99 plus the add ons and the basket alone was C$255.99 plus add ons. Sears Parts Canada will not deliver too the US, and as far as I am aware will not accept US credit cards. So you will either have to go yourself and pay cash, have someone go for you and pay cash or use a Canadian credit card or have some some in Canada order it for you, pay with a Canadian credit card, have it delivered to them and you arrange to have it picked up from them.
I ordered one in March 2010 and had it delivered, but I live in Canada.
Hope this may help.
Good Luck
 

Ronr533

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Los Angeles
Well the sears tech came out Yesterday for my $129 call to get my new drum under warranty. So I now am going to order up Bearings, Bearing seal,and a new belt. I do have a question for those of you that have already done this repair. I am very old school and was thinking about just using RTV sealant on the Drum Half instead of putting in a new drum half seal. So any input on this would be great. I am going to remove the yoke on the new drum and Paint it to make it last a bit longer. So if you have any tips on reassembly that might make it easier let me know.
Thanks
Ron
 

Old School

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Dec 4, 2011
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Washington State
Just joined, have some extra rear seals

Hi,

I just replaced the bearings, rear seal, front boot and the shell gasket. I had to buy 7 of the seals to make the minimum order (!), so I thought I'd see if anyone was interested in my spares. They are the rubber coated type with a double lip. 40X80X10mm. They are a bit different than the originals, but absolutely no one sells those as near as I can tell. I found this forum very helpful, and wanted to help someone else.
 
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