[FIXED] Drum Gasket and Rear Shell Bearings

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Dan O.

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BTW. Both the rear outer tub half and gasket, front tub half and inner stainless steel tub (which included the shaft and support spider already attached) are now available together in an assembly for a greatly reduced price. Although it doesn't look to be stocked (nor have a photo of it yet), it should be available at the following link:

LINK > Frigidaire built Front-load Washer Tub Set (2)

JFYI

Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~
 

ron in sc

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I have a Frigidaire FWTB69RGS0 serial #XC03801294. From researching the problem I have, i.e., machine howls loudly on spin cycle I have discovered this is a common issue.

I am pretty confident I can do the necessary repairs, I have printed the instructions which Jake provided link to in first post.

I'm thinking I will not know all of the parts I will need until I take the unit apart. I would like to have the parts in my possession before I take the unit apart even if I have parts that I may not really need, unless they are really expensive. So basically my questions are as follows:

What is a list of parts I should order to be prepared?

For example:

1-two bearings and seal in photo in post in this thread

2-gasket

3-shell-rear/bearing

4-inner drum, the thing with the arms that were broken in photo in this thread

5-do bearings and seal in #1 above have numbers that anyone has? I was thinking I could go to the bearing supply store I have dealt with and get them there.


Edited: I see Jakes directions have the numbers for the bearings and seal.
 

scorrie

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Hey..I just got the back shell with bearings and it has the white tub seal in it...I polished the bronze bushing on the shaft and coated it with waterproof syntheic grease before reassembly!.Here is what happens...the seal goes south and washes out the bearings! The inner back shell seal is number one important!...if Frigidaire is listening..REDESIGN IT!

I had to buy a belt and a new shock!

It took me about 45 minutes to reassemble the whole thing...Loc-tite and replace the lock washer on the bearing shaft...I also sandblasted and painted the spider arm assy on the back....but thats just me. I am an aircraft mechanic, so now I have an aviation grade washer.

The tub half seal is a large white O-ring on the Frigidaire
 

p00bare

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Ron-

My experience (see other posts) is with the Maytag Neptune, which appears similar to the Frigidaire, especially regarding bearing replacement. The two neptune ball bearings are pressed into a machined aluminum caseing that is cast into the plastic of the rear outer shell. The Maytag has a cir-clip that must be removed (from the rear) before the rear bearing can be removed. The lip seal must be removed from the front bearing area at some point as well.

I removed the bearings using a foot long piece of 1" OD steel pipe with no threads and a 2 lb sledge. Once inner spinner & shaft were out, and with the outer shell still suspended in the cabinet, I removed the rear bearing by pounding (work around in a circle, with 6-8" sharp swings, moving after each swing) from the inside (front). It came out fairly easily. The trick is not to get it cockeyed; then the steel outer bearing race digs into the aluminum and sticks. You can tell if it is cockeyed by measureing the distance between the bearing race and the aluminum caseing: it should be the same at all points around the circumference.

My front (inner) bearing was another story! For this I worked from the rear of the outer tub. This is the bearing that got wet and corroded (rusty). The aluminum caseing was also corroded with all that whiteish Al-hydroxide. I cleaned it up before bearing removal, but it still took lots of pounding. Final success resulted from taking the above mentioned perimeter measurements, and pounding in the right place.

I then cleaned up the aluminum corrosion with medium sandpaper, followed by thorough cleanup to remove sand grit, etc.

Bearing replacement was relatively easy: they were lightly greased where they would contact the aluminum, and tapped in (same hammer), using a short steel bar (1/4x1x6") which permitted contact with only the OUTER bearing race, and work in a circle or back and forth. This last is VERY important, as pounding on the INNER race can deform/dent/chip the inner steel balls & race and shorten bearing life. If you have a large socket or pipe that will contact ONLY the outer race, you can use this, or rig up a big bolt to pull the bearings in.

Don't forget to put in a new seal!

Only other part to replace might be the gasket between the two halves of the outer tub. I did not replace mine, which is a giant o-ring, but I think yours is a flat gasket.

Good luck! email me if you have a question.

Dave
 

ron in sc

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I can not get the inner stainless tub to separate for the shell. What should I try?

Edited:

Got it out by pounding the shaft with bolt on end with 10 lb. sledge hammer. I'll post photos later. Inside looks pretty rusty althouth tub is in good shape.
 

scorrie

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Just a note to anyone who would like to smash a precision keyed shaft with a sledgehammer

The shaft is the part that you are keeping so you dont want to deform(as in the picture) or destroy it...remember the backshell/or bearings are being replaced so you may do all sorts of terrible things to THEM.

A bit of filing and grinding and that shaft MIGHT fit back into the pulley again.

scorrie
 

DB130

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I'm glad you got the tub out.... But the pulley end of the tub looks like it took a little beating.

I used a wooden rod that was slightly smaller in diameter than the tub shaft and used a hammer to knock out the inner tub out of the rear outer tub. I hope your pulley goes back on OK. Keep us updated with pictures.
 

ron in sc

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Below are photos of my progress. Everything was very easy until I had my problem getting the tub separated from the shell.

Photos of my progress:

Shell and tub ready to come out.
shell_ready_to_come_out.jpg

Inside of shell, where bearing and seal were removed, very rusty.
inside_shell.jpg

About $4 worth of change and other junk that came out of the coin catcher
debris_copy1.jpg

Bearings and seal, bearings say China on them, seal don't say were it's made.
bearings.jpg

Picture of shaft with rust on it before it was cleanded up. I think that is why it was so hard to separate the shaft from the bearings in the shell.
000_0131.jpg

Shaft after repaired and cleaned. Bearing contact surfaces are in pretty good shape now.
shaft.jpg
 

ron in sc

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Front Loader Washer Seal Leak: Possible cure

After looking at how this thing is made it occurred to me that the water may be leaking past the seal due to the design of the machine. Specifically, that little shaft that holds the bearings and supports the entire weight of the drum does not spin in a perfect circle. The spinning is probably more elliptical in nature. So that means the shaft is pressing on the seal at angles therefore allowing water to enter the chamber between the two bearings. I don’t think the machine has a suspension system up to the task of keeping the tub spinning very smoothly. That's my theory.

So what to do; because for whatever reason water is getting behind the seal and into the bearings. Well the seal I removed after cleaning it up seemed fine. I have another on route which should be here soon. I've installed the bearing on the outside of the shell and I've filled the chamber with white synthetic grease. Theory is grease will fill area and inhibit water from entering the space between the bearings. See photo.

The other photo shows the old bearing and new one. Old one is Chinese, new one is Japanese Koyo which has a better rubber insert, it goes up into the top of the bearing and seals better.

Do you think it's ok to fill that void with grease? The bearings once installed should keep the grease between the two bearings kind of like the grease in the hub of a car with regular bearings and races and a seal on the back. If there is a volume of grease between the bearings rather than water that should be a good thing.
 

ron in sc

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On number 12 of Jakes instructions for boot removal from the machine it says carefully remove boot from front of the machine. Mine is wedged in very tight. Is there a technic to do this without damaging anything?

I have new bearings installed but I’m waiting on new seal. So I thought I’d take the boot off in preparation of reinstalling on the front shell.

Edited:

It did have adhesive holding it on, I ran a razor blade underneath seal to unattach. Seal is off and ready for reuse. However, what adhesive do I use to reattach?
 
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ron in sc

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Machine is back together and working great. Got the boot off front of machine, then reinstalled on the front shell or whatever it's called, had to take off all those cement weights. It was a fair amount of effort to deal with the boot.

Ran a test load with washer hooked up to water in garage. No more aircraft takeoff noise on final spin cycle. I did remove all the grease I had put in the area between the two bearings based on Dave’s advise relative to the potential problems it could create.

Special thanks to Dave, aka p00bare, who help me offline with issues I encountered and to Jake whose posted those great instructions which made this job a DIY project.

Thanks again,
Ron

Edited:
Huge thanks to jnicosia for writing those excellent instuctions complete with illustrations.
 
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Jake

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Great job Ron!

But jnicosia is the one that gets all the credit for this, he wrote all the instructions himself, I just posted it for everyone to use.

Jake
 

Scott7421

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Bearings and Seal kit ordered through RepairClinic.com

I just ordered the bearings and seal kit through Repairclinic.com and they are smaller than what I have on my Frigidaire FWT647GHS. What I ordered is only about 2 inches across, but the seal on my washer is 3.25 inches.

I thought all of these Frigidaire and Kenmore models used the same size bearings. Is there another kit I should have ordered or would it be better just to find them locally?
 

Jake

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Hi Scott,

They should be all the same size, you can call RepairClinic.com to verify those parts.

Jake
 

ron in sc

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RepairClinic.com did not have the right bearings and seal for my Frigidaire either. My bearings had the # that jnicosia listed in his instructions for the repair. #'s were 6307 R and 6306 R also metric seal was 40x80x10. I went to a bearing distributor in town and got the parts. The bearings I took out were Chinese and the ones I put in were Koyo made in Japan and looked to be better sealed.
 

Jake

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Ok, Thanks Ron for letting us know!:)

Jake
 

Scott7421

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Thanks. I did manage to find some bearings locally and I've returned the smaller ones to RepairClinic.com.

Any ideas on the easiest way to get these old bearings out? I bought a bearing puller, I've heated them and soaked them in WD40 but they have not budged.

My wife is ready for me to finish this project. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Scott
 

ron in sc

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I used a drift to pound one of them out. For the other I think it was the larger bearing I attached a suitably sized socket with an extention bar and used that to pound out that bearing, hope that makes sense.
 

Jake

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Good job Ron!:)

Glad you got them out!:3:

Jake
 

nworker

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I am back to looking at repairing my washer rather than buying a new one. This is driven more by the installation problems then by cost of the washer. The cabinet for my washer is too small for the newer washers and to change that would be a MAJOR undertaking :-(

I too purchased the bearing kit from Repairclinic and they appear to be the wrong ones for my Frigidaire. The kit contains 2 6205-rd bearings and a 0-9303 seal. It turns out that I ordered the parts from repair clinic after going down to my friendly bearing supply house and getting the bearings (6307-2RS and 6306-2RS) listed in the repair guide. They did not have the right seal and suggested that I go to an automotive store to find one.

I searched all over the place for the seal. Apparently, the problem is that all of the seals are application specific and not listed by dimensions. According to my sources, unlike bearings that have a universal number system (that is how I know that the bearings from repair clinic will not work), seals are application specific. Furthermore, automotive seals are listed in 1000th of a inch and the information in the repair guide is in MM.

So here I sit with four bearings and one seal. It sounds like I have the right bearings, but it would be great to get the right seal. The bearing company can order the seal, but it will cost a bunch for shipping. Does anybody know where I can pick up the right seal and what to ask for. I live in Los Angeles so I would think that there is a seal for me out there some where ;-)

Regards,

Hank
 
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