[FIXED] Drum Gasket and Rear Shell Bearings

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ron in sc

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The bearing company I got my bearings from did not have the seal in stock either. They had to order it from their store in Columbia, SC. It took a day for me to get it. Certainly in a large market they can order your seal with no problem.

My invoice says the following about the seal which cost $4.85
MOS-40-80-10R
Metric Seal

It's pretty straightforward, I think you need to talk to someone more knowledgable at the bearing place you are dealing with.

Those numbers 40,80 and 10 represent the dimensions of the seal and they can easily be measured.

Edited:

The place I got my parts from is called Bearing Distributors, Inc. They have about 12 stores in North and South Carolina. Worst case you order from them. Their warehouse is in Columbia, SC phone # 800-934-2834
 
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nworker

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I finally found a place that helped me with the seal. I should have it by Thursday of next week. I'll post the information on make and part number when I get it.

Thanks for all the help.

Hank
 

nworker

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Okay then after many days and having to order two to meet the minimum purchase price (~18 for the two) I got my seals.

Here is the information I promissed from the packaging. I'll be putting the Frigidaire FWT647GH together this weekend so wish me luck.

Chicago Rawhide
15939
CR 40X80X10 HMSA7 R

The web site for Chicago Rawhide as listed on the box:

www.chicago-rawhide.com
 

andyk

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Are you sure???

DB130 said:
There is a Frigidaire part number for the bearing seal as well: 5308015092

Did you actually receive and use this bearing seal with this part number? I ordered 4 based on your part number and they are TOO SMALL. I figured it was correct because Sears Parts and Repair Clinic recognise the p/n.
 

andyk

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nworker said:
Okay then after many days and having to order two to meet the minimum purchase price (~18 for the two) I got my seals.

Here is the information I promissed from the packaging. I'll be putting the Frigidaire FWT647GH together this weekend so wish me luck.

Chicago Rawhide
15939
CR 40X80X10 HMSA7 R

The web site for Chicago Rawhide as listed on the box:

www.chicago-rawhide.com



Hi! Did you get your washer fixed? Are these the correct seals?
 

nworker

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I completed the bearing replacement. It went nice and smooth. Did not understand that I would have to remove the front weights, but overall that was a great manual.

The only thing that I would do different would be to order two shocks before starting. Once I got the washer out and on the operating table (my garage floor) I found that one of the shocks was broken. The local 'discount' appliance dealer took me for $35 plus tax when the cost from the repair clinic was $20. It would have been nice to replace the belt, but the guy at the appliance store said 'they are really high quality and I never have to replace them' Okay

Now it works great and is quiet as a kitten.

Thanks!

Hank
 

Jake

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Great job Hank!:)

jnicosia did a great job with the manual, he gets all the credit!:)

Glad you got it fixed,:3:

Jake
 

jmcclellan

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Removing drum?

Anyone got any suggestions on how to remove the main drum/shaft assembly from the bearings? Seems the only poster who said anything about how he did it, beat it with a sledge.. :eek: I've disassembed the entire thing just fine, but getting that rusted shaft out of those rusted bearings is not being cooperative.. spending hours with a dremel isn't my idea of fun ;)

thanks in advance for any insight
 

jjsebastian

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Removal of Frigidaire Bearings......

I agree, I haven't seen anyone that mentions actually getting out the bearings. (except the " beat them out with a sledge" guy)
It has been a few days since your post but I'll mention how far I've gotten.
After reviewing a bunch of forums, etc. I decided to tear into it. I have done worse. Washer disassembly just takes some time nothing fancy.... Then there is these large bearings pressed in this plastic assembly..... That must be why the manufacturer sells the whole assembly. Anyway I have them out of my washer. I tried a few things but what really worked fantastic was grabbing a piece of old 2x8 and using a 3 1/2" hole saw to put a hole through it. Then I placed the plastic drum on the 2x8 so the bearing would come out through the freshly cut hole. It lines up really well to reduce the chance of damaging the plastic tub. I placed the handle from my floor jack down through the hole in the inner bearing against the outer bearing and pounded it out with a 3lb hammer and into the hole in the 2x8. Really wasn't that bad. To do the inner bearing I flipped the tub over and set my holy 2x8 on a bunch of wood pieces so the tub would be resting totally on the 2x8. The bearing and seal came out together. It wasn't too bad.
I tried a few other attempts but the 2x8 with the hole in it an a nice steel bar to reach the bearings is key.
I haven't put the new ones in yet because the seal & bearing kit at RepairClinic.com is not the right one the bearings and seal are way too small. ( I just found that out the hard way!) I'm thinking I could use the circle piece that came out of the 2x8 when I cut the hole to lay on the new bearings when I pound them back in.
Anyone with Ideas on where to get the bearings and seal and info on getting them out and especially back in please let us know.
Thanks....
 

jmcclellan

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Actually..

Thanks very much for your reply.. I was starting to get disappointed here!

but, that's not what I need, I'm not that far yet. I don't anticipate major problems getting the bearings out of the housing. What I need help with is getting the SHAFT out of the BEARINGS! The shaft is part of the inner drum assembly. and with the rust in the inner race and on the shaft it is stuck real good.

I have actually got the rear bearing off by taking a dremel to the races and removing the balls, tedious but no damage to the shaft. But there is no way to access the front bearing in this way.

** How did you get your drum/shaft assembly out of your bearings? **

IMHO, I wouldn't suggest buying that kit. from what I've read in these forums it's a tossup on if it even fits, and it is most likely more of the same chinese crap bearings - I emailed them and they told me the kit is made by Electrolux, the same as the OEM parts. So I would take your old ones down to your friendly local bearing supplier and get yourself some SKF's instead. Around here that's Canadian Bearings..

Thanks
 

Jake

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LOL, That was good Mad Mac, got a good laugh!:D Its good to keep a sense of humor in this line of work!:D

Jake
 

jjsebastian

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No comment on the ball removal.....

OK, I never had a problem withdrawing my shaft..... It slid out with just a little pounding. I guess I caught the noise early enough. Just a little surface rust on my shaft...

I agree with the bearing thing. I got new bearings from Kaman Bearing and ordered a seal from NAPA, believe it or not..... The bearings are installed and the seal will be here in the morning.
(My wife couldn't take it an more and went to the laundro-mat. no washer, 6 people, only 4 days!)

If you screw the bolt in the shaft, put a socket over it, and somehow support the plastic drum, can you pound out the shaft and inner drum??? This way the shaft may drag the bearing out with it but you could your dremel tool trick to cut off it's balls.

It sounds very close to beating it out with a sledge dosen't it....
 

Jake

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jmcclellan said:
:eek: When I was writing that, I just KNEW it sounded *wrong* lol
Its never wrong to post what you do here,:) With mechanical part describing, it can just throw abit of fun and laughs into the mix, helps relieve the intense concentration with some humor.:D

Jake
 

jmcclellan

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Balls and Shafts and Lube oh my!

Oh yes, I know.. especially when you get into things involving bearings, all that talk about shafts, and balls, and lubrication, and sliding things in and out with pounding.. it can get pretty explicit sounding! :D or should I say.. racey.. lol

But really, I guess I'm basically back to the pound it with a sledge idea. But unlike some people, I will protect the shaft with some wood. I've had the thing soaking in WD-40 all week so maybe that's eaten up some rust.. it sure looks like it!

Thanks
 

jmcclellan

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Shaft removal redux..

So.. an 8 lb sledge, block of wood, can of WD-40 and some patience got it all out of there. first the shaft came out of the bearings, then another appropriately sized piece of wood took out one bearing, then another appropriately sized piece of wood took out the other bearing. Man was it in nasty rusty condition!

I am in the process of cleaning it up now. The spiders on the back of the washer drum were completely gummed up with soap residue, so I unbolted the spider/shaft assembly from the drum and am scraping/soaking all the residue crap off it and am going to sandblast it and give it a coat of epoxy paint in an attempt to prevent what appears (from these forums) to be the #2 bane of these washers - cracked spiders from corrosion!

I will post when completed the actual mfg & part numbers of the bearings and seals I successfully purchased and installed, since that seems to be an ongoing issue of discussion here..
 

Jake

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Good job getting it out!:)

Thanks for keeping us updated,

Jake
 
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