[FIXED] Drum Gasket and Rear Shell Bearings

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mchin

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Ongoing saga of these crappy Sears front loders. Disassembled as per instructions in this forum. Easy. Left front boot on the front half of the tub.
No need to remove totally. Only inboard bearing bad, but planned to replace both with ones to be purchased from bearing shop. Seal looked good but ordered one anyway. Went to Sears parts to get O ring that goes between both halves of the outer plastic tub. Here is where it got interesting. Just for curiosity, I asked the price of the rear tub complete
with bearing, and was told that it wasn't just the rear tub, but the
COMPLETE tub assembly, all for $149.99. I couldnt believe it since I had priced out just the rear tub assembly at various parts stores and the average price was $120. I asked to look at the part, and sure enough,
it was the complete assembly, including stainless steel inner tub, agitators, pulley. So I just got that. The bearings, shaft seal, grease, O ring cost out at $80. Save me a lot of time and now I have an extra complete assembly, only problem now is, where do I store it.LOL.
The part number for the Complete assembly is 131462800.
 

jmcclellan

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You are kidding, right? That part number corresponds to the rear shell/bearing only on all the online stores..

where are you located? I happen to need that inner tub assembly (spiders actually) and $149 is less than I can find the tub assy for anywhere. If you really got the whole thing for that, well.. tell me exactly where, please!
 

mchin

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Hey I'm in Victoria B.C. You should go to the Sears Parts place and check.
That's what I thought with that part #,only outer rear tub, but they brought out the part and there it was. The WHOLE outer tub AND inner ss tub, all assembled with pulley in back. All I
did was put the weights and front boot on. Maybe they made a mistake here but I'm not complaining. I just looked up the SS tub price and it looks to be $186. In the U.S its $240.
 

jmcclellan

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I am in Ontario, and have not seen any Sears Parts places around here.. do you have a phone number for Sears Parts I could call and see if there is one around here?

thanks
 

mchin

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its a 1-800-469-4663 They will then tell you where the parts depot store is located. I'm sure there is one in Toronto.
 

mchin

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Have sent Sears an official complaint regarding this machine. If everone who have this problem send a complaint to either Sears or Fridgidere, maybe they will be more forthcoming in helping financially or otherwise, to
resolve this common problem.
Mike.
 

alundy

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Dec 22, 2005
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Mine's down and My sister in law

Both this week. She bought hers a week after me about 5 years ago because of good write ups in Consumer Reports.

What about the piece of concrete in the FRONT of the machine? I havent seen that mentioned. I have a parts list i found on the net and I dont see that part listed. I see the back one but not the front.

Has it broken on anyone else? How much is it? I am taking it apart now to see what I got to do.

my sis in law had extended warranty , good for her, and it was covered , otherwise 7-800$$ I dont have it and really shouldnt need it!!

Anyway can anyone comment on that concrete?? thanks

Andy
 

alundy

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And on a side note

I assume I will have to disassemble everything anyway to get the weight changed. I have got part of it apart now and I see that the two sides of the drum are not bolted together at all!! about 1/2" gap. thats probably why the concrete broke...

you think I can just tighten it? If i have to take it apart i might as well change the gasket too I suppose.
 

alundy

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some pics of what I see

The broken cement and also the tub "vise gripped" together. Are the bolts supposed to extend out the back when tight? also you can see the spring has worn thru one side of the tub. Dont know if I should try to get by for another year or two or not. Seems like th bearing may be OK as I see no rust or other problems in back. With it this loose, shouldnt I be able to see the gasket? I really couldnt see it. I am trying to decide if I just tighten it and see if it still leaks after.
 

jmcclellan

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umm..

Alundy, there must be something else wrong with that thing. It looks like the plastic is stripped or squashed from under the bolts, it is not supposed to look like that and of course the two halves of the shell should be tight. This does not just 'happen' nor does a concrete weight just suddenly 'break' in half for no reason - something has applied a great deal of force to cause this to happen, you should be looking to find out what has caused these things to break!
 

alundy

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You are right, it is.

I thought what must of happened is that it worked loose as I have read they can, and then, be cause it was loose it banged back and forth and worked itself into that state.

It was leaking some and I did look underneath it to see if the tub was tight and, it is underneath. Until today I didnt look at the two halves from the top.

I dont know what else it could be.

I have it totally apart now, except I havent got the inner tub out. the bearing looks great from the outside. I used the posted instructions to take dis assemble it, but the instructions say that once the outer tub is separated the inner tub will come out easily after the pulley is off. It didnt for me, and I dont want to ruin the bearing if it isnt bad. The inner tub turns smooth and there is no noise when turned by hand and it seems tight. It was making noise before when spinning but I am thinking that could be from the two halves being loose. I'd like to see for sure before I order parts. I need that new weight and the front half of the outer tub for sure along with the seal.

Andy
 

jmcclellan

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unless you are replacing the rear shell, you shouldn't need to remove the inner drum/basket from the bearings at all. while it does come out "easily" it does not just 'come apart' like other things, it is still a 'shaft in bearing' assembly and requires a fair application of force to get apart. I wouldn't take that out if you don't need to.
 

alundy

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I just wanted to chk the bearings

We were hearing some bad noise, but I couldnt get it off and I used a sledge on a block of wood but it wouldnt move with what force I was willing to use. There is no noise when I hand turn it so I am going to assume it is ok and I have ordered all my other parts. It just seems odd that there is no noise and presumable, therefore no rust , but yet it wont budge with some fairly good "persuasion"

Andy
 

mrbluegrass

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Dec 26, 2005
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Virginia
How long will it last with bad bearings

This thread is Great. You guys are a real big help. My question is: Has anyone continued to run their washer with the bad bearings. Mine (my wifes) sounds like a jet taking off when in the spin cycle. I knew it was a bearing and when I found this thread it was confirmed.

I am wondering what other damage it will cause if we continue to run it? It has been this way for about two weeks now. I would like to get a couple more months out of it before taking it apart. I have to have surgery next week and will be unable to lift anything for a while.

Has anyone had the bearing lock up or explode on them?
 

ron in sc

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Charleston, South Carolina, USA
mrbluegrass said:
I am wondering what other damage it will cause if we continue to run it?
Mine sounded like a jet on take off for about a year before I changed the bearings. It probably will not hurt to keep using it; but the noise will get louder. Our laundry room is isolated from the living area so we didn't hear the noise, when it got real loud I went ahead and fixed it.
 

alundy

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Dec 22, 2005
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Question on shocks

Ok I got the parts and also a 1 piece concrete counter weight to replace 1 broken one. The replacement takes the place of all 3 and i will post in my next reply the instructions i got from Electrolux on how to take the washer apart to replace the weight. It is interesting because it gives good insight in takeing the shocks off and an "easier" way to do it and also because of how they instruct the drum to be removed.

My question is how do I know if the shocks are ok? I thought they would be springy like a car shock but they are not. The top even slides off and when it is together I can just push it down easily and it stays down ...I am thinking this is the way they are meant to work but I'd like to know.

thanks and check the next post for more instructions.j

Andy
 

alundy

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Instructions from Electrolux on drum removal.

Please read the document. It covers drum removal in the course of replacing the counterweights I bought.

Hopefully you can read it. If not its a jpg and you should be able to copy it to your computer and use Irfanview or another program to make it larger. I dont have any other way to share this unless someone wants me to sent it to them to "host" it.

thanks

Andy
 

jjsebastian

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Oct 13, 2005
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New York
Continuing to use with bad bearings = $$.

MrBluegrass:
Running with bad bearings may be ok for a short while. Even if you can put up with the mess of the thing leaking and spraying grease laiden soapy water, I saw somewhere that after the bearings go you start wearing into the shaft which is extra $, after that the steel drum will get loose and actually grint away the plastic tub which is big $$.
I guess if you plan on tossing the washer out after it thrashes itself to death, then just let it rip. If you plan on keeping it or fixing it then I would get a bunch of parts on order, and set aside a weekend!
I did the bearing replacement on mine about 3 months ago and it is doing great. I'm back because a friend of mine has the same washer and he thinks his is getting noisy!
Joe
 

kellydebs

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Jan 22, 2006
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Vancouver, WA, USA
Our Kenmore model 41741052000 was diagnosed having bad bearings. Estimated labor $303.22. Estimated parts $288.23 for a total repair bill of $591.45 (including tax). Machine is almost 5 years old. Instead of tackling the repair myself (as outlined in the EXCELLENT messages above), we went to SEARS and complained about this design flaw. They agreed to give us an additional 20% off a Kenmore 46462 ($899.99 retail / $799.99 on sale / -20% = $639.99 - $65 service call credit = final price of $574.99.

We are hoping this Kenmore model holds up better than our last one :3:

Two questions -

1. Should we purchase the 5 year "Master Protection Agreement" for $259.99?

2. Any of you located in the Portland OR / Vancouver WA area that might be interested in purchasing our Kenmore 4174 for parts? Other than bearing wobble and slight leak... it runs like a champ :D
 

Jake

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McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

Should we purchase the 5 year "Master Protection Agreement" for $259.99?
Yes, I always suggest to my customers always purchase the extended warranty on any new appliance that is electronically/computer controlled.

Any of you located in the Portland OR / Vancouver WA area that might be interested in purchasing our Kenmore 4174 for parts? Other than bearing wobble and slight leak... it runs like a champ :D
You can post your washer in the Buy Sell or Trade forum at this link:
http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/forumdisplay.php?f=62

Jake
 
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