[FIXED] Drum Gasket and Rear Shell Bearings

[Dragonslayer]

I ordered a replacement inner tub/ spider from an ebay vendor. It was an actual Electrolux replacement part and I was hoping that the new spider assembly would be stainless? Unfortunately it is the same aluminum spider. I am thinking about taking it off from the basket and having it painted it to help in preventing corrosion. Has anyone here ever done that? Also, does anyone have pics of what the stainless spider looks like and where I can get my hands on a basket that comes with a stainless spider? What are your thoughts guys? I may even send that spider out and have it powder coated. I really don't want to repair this every few years.

 

[VillageDolt]

I have seen post where people used epoxy paint (read first post on this thread http://www.applianceblog.com/mainfo...model-417s-tub-spider-corrosion-breakage.html). I also recall seeing the spiders powder coated by the truly dedicated. I have seen conflicting reports as to how the arms are removed/attached. Some posts say bolted on and others indicate they are riveted. I couldn't get mine off (one of the bolts I think), but the arms looked decent after 4 years so I just cleaned it up and swore off powder detergent.

Since you bought the part on eBay, I am assuming that Sears did not honor the warranty, or else wanted to charge you too much to do the repair on the warranted part?

 

[Dragonslayer]

They said they would warranty it, but I had to wait 2 wks for their first available service call to confirm, and then another visit when the part comes in. I just can't afford to miss two days of work on top of the $90 service call. The times are tough enough as it is, I don't want to give my not so wonderful employers an excuse to relief me of my position.

 

[VillageDolt]

Ouch. Right on, man. Given the first failure, I guess the water/detergent is hard on your unit. I'd powder coat it. Hell, it'll be so nice you'll want a picture of it in your marquis below your name. Good luck.

 

[Dunesoul]

when I had mine out, the drum, not the spider detatched, I seem to recall that it was screwed to the stainless drum. My opinion, and I'm no expert, but I did have this conversation with an aircraft mechanic that is prone to coating any bare aluminum. He seemed to thingk that even the powder coating wouldn't last all that long. Untimately you have two dissimilar metals touching, the aluminum spider and the stainless drum. I unded up using a flat screwdriver and a small chisel and scooping the deposited crud from the square recesses nearest the shaft. FYI, we don't use powder detergents. I think its just "stuff".. soap that somehow gets trapped and perhaps oxidized metal. In all, The spider seemed rather robust and in good shape. I couldn't resist running a few different grits of sandpaper over it to shine it up a bit. Maybe that will hold it for another 5-10 years!

 

[stkabi]

It looks like I have the same problem Kenmore 417.43042200. with oil leak into the clothes and minor aluminum arm rust ( that can be taken out). I already took my washer apart, down to the tubs and stainless drum.
I found these items. is that all I need? is the bearing setup a total of 3 plus the seal?

• This item: Koyo 6307 2RSC3 Single Row Sealed Deep Groove Radial Ball Bearing by Koyo <noscript> In Stock.
  Ships from and sold by US Bearings & Drives.
  $8.38 shipping.
  
  </noscript> In Stock.
• Koyo 6306 2RSC3 Single Row Sealed Deep Groove Radial Ball Bearing by Koyo <noscript> In Stock.
  Ships from and sold by US Bearings & Drives.
  $8.25 shipping.
  
  </noscript> In Stock.
• National 40X80X10 Single Lip Spring-loaded Nitrile Oil Seal by National

Could someone confirm these parts for me. I appreciate it.

 

[pokeyb]

Compatible models for part # 134453200

Hi all,

First off I should say that this has been a real learning experience for me; so many thanks to all who've posted on this topic already.

I have a Kenmore washer (model# 970-c42162-00) that is also experiencing the bearing noise that others have noted. Others have mentioned that they were able to come across the complete tub assembly at their local sears part store (in Canada) for not much more than the rear tub assembly alone.

I went down to the our local sears parts store and asked about this assembly (part # 134453200). They had 5 in stock, but the gentleman who was helping me didn't want to guarantee that it was compatible with my model as his computer wouldn't automatically cross reference it. And of course all the tech's were gone for the weekend.

So, I'm wondering if anyone here may know if the complete tub assembly (134453200) is compatible (or definitively not compatible) with my washer. Any help would be appreciated

Thanks so much,

Shaun

P.S. For future reference, the other complete tub assembly number posted earlier in this thread (131462800) is automatically replaced by # 134453200. And it's now $230, not $150(ish).


Edit: Noticed that past posts on this thread, the part # in question is for model # 970-c40062-00. Am still hoping someone may be able to inform me whether c40062, and my model # c42162, would be from the same manufacturer (Frigidaire?), or whether I'm out of luck on this one. Again, many thanks (in advance).

 

[stkabi]

Hi all,

First off I should say that this has been a real learning experience for me; so many thanks to all who've posted on this topic already.

I have a Kenmore washer (model# 970-c42162-00) that is also .... Again, many thanks (in advance).

I just replaced mine with the items in the post above. In my case the bearings leaked grease. it did sound ok before that.
You may have other problems beside the bearings. (ie rusted tri-arm).

This job was a little involved. its more work than what I thought it would be after readings these posts, luckily I do have tools and an air compressor which helped in removing the bolts and the Tri-arm. It would have been very hard to put the tri-arm back together through the wheel bearings without a compressor and an air gun, because it is extremely tight and a hammer air gun is necessary to press it back in, unless you take it to a local shop.

So I purchased the 2 wheel bearings mentioned in my previous post (above) and for the grease seal I actually got a different one that is "double lipped" instead of the single lip.

my tri arm was OK overall. I re sanded and cleaned it before coating it with a spray paint (Rust-Oleum Spray Paint).
I had to change the wheel bearings, grease seal, outer tub gasket and shock dampers. for a total of about $120.00 it was worth it for me.

In my Opinion, open yours up and see for yourself if it is worth saving. because if your tri-arm holding the basket is rusted then in my opinion it's not worth the work. you would have to spend much more, for the inner tub and outer tub + frustration and time. You would then be better off putting it back together and taking advantage of your local power company coupons to buy a new efficient washer. (150$ coupon in my area).

Good luck.

 

[pokeyb]

Thanks for the info.. I've been wondering how difficult it would be to remove the shaft bearing as others have pretty much said "by any means necessary."

I was able to find a tub kit (up here in Canada) - $230 - but am considering replacing the OEM bearings. Am wondering what others opinions are on the SKM bearings, and how much longer they will last compared to the stock ones sold with the assemblies.

Forever and ever would be the ideal , but double the life expectancy (when used in conjunction with a rubber double lip seal) would be what I'd hope for at minimum.

BTW, I've noticed that some people have used grease when replacing the bearings. Where are people packing the grease? I mentioned it to an appliance parts shop, and they suggested that I should only do that if I want my clothes to have grease stains on them.

Thanks again.

 

[stkabi]

Thanks for the info.. I've been wondering how difficult it would be to remove the shaft bearing as others have pretty much said "by any means necessary."

I was able to find a tub kit (up here in Canada) - $230 - but am considering replacing the OEM bearings. Am wondering what others opinions are on the SKM bearings, and how much longer they will last compared to the stock ones sold with the assemblies.

Forever and ever would be the ideal , but double the life expectancy (when used in conjunction with a rubber double lip seal) would be what I'd hope for at minimum.

BTW, I've noticed that some people have used grease when replacing the bearings. Where are people packing the grease? I mentioned it to an appliance parts shop, and they suggested that I should only do that if I want my clothes to have grease stains on them.

Thanks again.

Hello again,
Removing the shaft was relatively easy using a hammer.
regarding the SKM bearings I have no idea. many people seem to like them here. I purchased the ones I mentioned above, they are from japan and seem much quieter than the OEM ones.
The bearings are sealed with grease within. Nonetheless, I added grease in between the bearings around the shaft. This is not necessary. I actually wouldn't do it again. (i did it Just out of habit working on cars).

But even with that there is no leak of grease since it is pretty tight with the bearings there.
finally, before you buy the complete outer tub, double check the inner basket tri arm, because it might be rusted out... and that part has to be purchased with the basket for at least 160 US $. which is probably not worth it...
Good luck

 

[pokeyb]

This job was a little involved. its more work than what I thought it would be after readings these posts, luckily I do have tools and an air compressor which helped in removing the bolts and the Tri-arm. It would have been very hard to put the tri-arm back together through the wheel bearings without a compressor and an air gun, because it is extremely tight and a hammer air gun is necessary to press it back in, unless you take it to a local shop.

Thanks for the advice again, stkabi!

I pulled them apart and the shaft looks good, as do the spider (tri) arms, and the rear basket (only the most minor of a scuff from the stainless steel basket screw - not even close to what I've seen others post online).

The quote I took above was to ask if the hammer air gun is needed to press the bearings back in, or pull the shaft through to sit flush with the pulley? If others who've done this haven't had access to these tools, do you have a suggestion on how this could be accomplished?

As for the bearings, I seem to recall someone saying they hammered it back in using the old bearings. Think this would work?

Hope all is well in Washington (stkabi) or in your neck of the woods (everyone else),

Shaun

 

[stkabi]

OK,
Good for you that the spider arm is OK.

The bearings can be hammered in. That's what I did. No problem there.
But pulling the shaft is going to be hard, You can't really hammer it in. that's why I said using an air gun did the trick for me.
I basically used the air gun, reversing the pulley wheel and re-screwing the big bolt in. (I would imagine that doing it by hand may be extremely hard)
That effectively pulled the shaft up back in its place.

It looks like you got it.

Good luck

 

[casmurbax]

More on bearing replacement

All, this is a great blog, plenty of information on here.

My issue is I have a Frigidaire model 417.39012890 and I have been unable to find concrete part numbers for this model. I have read many of blogs where the parts that were ordered were the incorrect size with the models numbers being similar to mine.<O</O
<O</O

Everyone I seem to talk with on the phone wants to sell me the rear tub assembly. If anyone could provide me with the bearing and seal numbers and perhaps a lead on where to purchase these parts at a reasonable price I would very grateful. I have read where SKF 63062rs & 63072rs seem to be the bearings of choice for many of these models, I can get them at my local <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com

NAPA</st1:City> store, however one is 70 and the other was 30 and these were both SKF bearings. From reading the blogs I seem to think that this rather high in price or am I incorrect in this assumption? <O</O
<O</O

Thank you in advance for any and all of your help.<O</O
John<O</O

 

[stkabi]

this is what worked for me cas***

• These items:
  
• Koyo 6307 2RSC3 Single Row Sealed Deep Groove Radial Ball Bearing.
• Koyo 6306 2RSC3 Single Row Sealed Deep Groove Radial Ball Bearing.
• National 40X80X10 Double Lip Spring-loaded Nitrile Oil Seal.

I got them from US bearings and drives in seattle, they have some of the products on AMAZON but you should just call them and place the order,
here you can find your closest branch.
good luck
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[casmurbax]

Thank you for the info.

stkabi,

Thank you very much for that info. I appreciate it. Once it is completed I will post back on my success.

John

 

[wwhitney]

Great thread, thanks to all the contributors. I am replacing the bearings on my 2004 Kenmore washer 417.43042300, they were starting to get louder and our laundry closet is right near our living space. I ended up leaving the bellows (boot) attached to the drum as one poster suggested, that worked well. My tub and armature (spider) assembly are actually in great condition, just a little lint to clean off. Anyway two questions I didn't see answered in this thread:

1) The service manual recommends reattaching the bellows (boot) to the front panel with dots of glue as it was originally done in the factory. It says that if you order a new bellows the glue is included, but my bellows is fine and I would like to reuse it. What is the appropriate type of glue for this application? I know several posters have left their bellows unglued but I'd prefer to glue mine.

2) In ordering replacement bearings, I have the following option: "C3 Internal Clearance is larger clearance within ball and ring than standard clearance (C0 or no suffix marked) and that is an option for those applications which have tension and stroke on shaft, so it helps the bearing to be capable to take Axial and Radial Loads." Is this appropriate for our application? Certainly the OEM bearings are not marked C3. Since the shaft just supports a spinning weight, I believe the only load on it should be shear, so I don't think tension is an issue. But I'm not a mechanical engineer.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[I can fix it]

There is a warranty usually on the basket, the reason appliance guys won't touch repair is because there is no money it, too time consuming, buy a toploader.

 

[I can fix it]

If your replacing the bearing the basket needs replacing too, you can just use any old glue for boot, maybe in 4 spots.

 

[casmurbax]

job completed

Special thanks to jnicosia and Jake. jnicosia for providing the great instructions on how to replace the bearings and Jake for providing a forum for the instructions to be found along with all the other users that provided their input on what parts they needed and tips for doing the repair itself.
<O</O
<O</O
I was not lucky on the time factor; I believe it took me just over 5 hours.
<O</O
<O</O
However, I was lucky on the pulley and the bearings removal. I placed a couple of milk crates on the outer lip of the tub and one 2lb hammer, a 2x4 and 3 whacks the inner tub dropped out. I placed the tub over the milk crate and I used an impact socket and 6inch extension, a couple of whacks and the bearing was out. Flipped the tub over onto the milk crate and again a couple of whacks and the bearing popped right out.
<O</O
<O</O
I had my wife help me get the tub out of the frame before that and after that I was on my own.
<O</O
<O</O
She was not around when it was time to put it back in, I put a sling around the front of the tub and attached a strap to the sling and the other end to a floor joist above and raised the tub that way after I had it inside the washer frame, this provided a great support for the drum assembly. <O</O
<O</O

I had no problems attaching the boot to the tub or to the front of the washer; overall it went quite easy I think. <O</O
<O</O

After I had it completely together, or so I thought, I realized I didn't put the weight on the back of the tub, 15 mins later had it fired up doing one empty cycle and it seems to be working like brand new. <O</O
<O</O

Ok I don't like to toot my own horn but I must tell you that for the most part, exception being tub removal, I did this all on my own and of course with the help of this forum. But I did it with only one hand and no not just to see if I could..... But I only really do have one arm. So if a guy can do it by himself with one hand I believe anyone could do it and I believe that because of this blog and the instructions I was able to do it.<O</O
<O</O

Thanks again. <O</O

 

[Jake]

Excellent John, good job.

Jake