[FIXED] GE side by side fridge side not cold

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Jake

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Yes I agree with Rick, but usually that relay should ohm at 0-1 ohm, did you have the ohm meter at the lowest ohms of resistance setting?

Jake
 

Jake

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Ok, well its your choice you can order a new relay or call a tech out to see whats going on, because on my meter it always 0-1 ohm when the relay is good.

Jake
 

vwrick

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Hi,

I have the same problem, my refrigerator side is not getting cold. My GE model # is gss25jfmdww. I took off the evap coil panel & defrosted all the coils with a hair dryer & let it dry overnight. I then checked the defrost heater & it has ~ 4 ohms running through it. My next step is to check the timer. However, I do not see it anywhere. On this model, is it on the motherboard? Or do I need to check something else entirely? Please advise, as I have been battling this issue back & forth for the past month. Thanks for all the useful information you guys provide here on the forum!
 

rickgburton

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Did you have to use a hair dryer to defrost the coils because they were packed with ice and frost and was there ice and frost on the outside of the evaporator cover (Back wall of freezer)? When you checked the defrost heater, did you check the defrost thermostat? Since you've defrosted it, is the fresh food section working OK? Your model uses a motherboard and thermistors and not a timer. What's the temperature in the fresh food section and in the freezer section?
 

vwrick

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Yes, I had to use a hair dryer & a little bit of warm (not hot) water to defrost the coils. I used the advice of others on this forum for the defrost. I then let it dry overnight. There was no ice on the evap cover. Please forgive my ignorance, but I do not know where the defrost thermostat is located on my model. Since I defrosted it, the fresh food section got cold again (two weeks ago), but last night I noticed that it is warm again. Fresh Food Temp is ~ 60 degrees, Frozen side is ~ 9 degrees. Thanks again for your help!
 

rickgburton

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OK, So you defrosted it two weeks ago and now the temperatures are going back up. That sounds about right. It usually takes that long to build up enough ice and frost again to affect the cooling. The motherboard monitors how many times the doors were open, how long they were open, compressor run time and even how long the heaters were on in the last defrost to determine when it's time for a defrost cycle. The motherboard monitors the input fro the evaporator thermistor to determine when to end the defrost. The defrost thermostat monitors the defrost system and is mostly a safety thermostat. Using a meter set to read ohms or continuity, check the heaters. Your meter should read closed or about 2-3 ohms. The defrost thermostat should read closed or about 1 ohm. The evaporator thermistor should read 16.3K Ohms at 32*F. Here's how to check it; take a small glass like a shot glass and fill it with crushed ice. Put the thermistor in and enough water to cover it. Give it a second to reach 32*F. If everything checks good, replace the motherboard:
Control Board WR55X10942P Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com
01091474.jpg

Defrost Thermostat WR50X10068 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com
00653957.jpg

Thermistor WR55X10025 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com
00855831.jpg

Defrost Heater Assembly WR51X10055 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com
00910628.jpg

Here is a video that might have some useful information:

[video=youtube;311BiD76iYg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=311BiD76iYg[/video]
 

vwrick

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Thanks again for the info & sharing all your knowledge, I appreciate it. I'll troubleshoot all of things...
 

vwrick

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I tested all of these things & last night it appeared to me that the thermistor was bad, it read 5K ohms. I went down to the local appliance parts store & replaced it. Now, it is still reading 0 ohms. What gives?

I removed the J1 connector & tested using the #5 Pin (Black) & #4 Pin (Red) on the control board. I am at a loss for what to do now. Any advice?
 
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rickgburton

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The thermistor should read about 16K Ohms at 32*F. Do you have your meter on the right setting?
 

vwrick

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My apologies, I had the red lead in the wrong pin! Everything is reading OK now. The refrigerator is now getting cold. Hopefully this does the trick! I guess I'll find out in two weeks!

Thanks again for your help!
 

rickgburton

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I don't mean to throw a wrench in the gears but what did you replace? If you replaced thermistor and it wasn't faulty...two weeks, same problem.
 

vwrick

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I checked the defrost thermostat, the lower thermistor (freezer), & the fresh-food thermistor. I got a low reading from the evap thermistor (5K ohms). As it was only $15, I replaced it. If the same condition returns in two weeks, I guess I need to replace the control panel? What else could I check?
 

rickgburton

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At what temperature did you check the thermistors. The resistance will change with the temperature. The way I check them is I put the thermistor in a small glass of crushed ice and just enough water to cover it. I know the resistance of the thermistor should be 16.3K Ohms at 32*F or freezing so that would be an accurate test. 5K Ohms would be room temperature or between 76*F and 77*F.
 

justjay

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I have a GE side-by-side model#GSS23WGTA, it will not get cold on the freezer side, but I have ice on the back wall. Could this be happening because of dirty coils?
 
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rickgburton

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No, most likely you have a defrost issue. You can remove the back wall of the freezer and check the defrost heater and defrost thermostat for continuity. If they test OK, you may have to replace the motherboard.
 

rickgburton

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vwrick, if you checked it in a glass of ice water then it's bad and you should replace it.
 
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