FIXED Food in Refrigerator Freezing

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Jake

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Its been so long along, I can't remember without looking at one again live, sorry.

Maybe another tech. or member thats changed one of these recently can shed some on this.

Jake
 

GE JIM

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The damper door breaks off from the motor so you will not see it move...It is laying in there and when you take the whole assembly out it will be obvious to see what happened..You need to take out the top shelf of the fridge and then take off the air duct on the back of fresh food wall to get at the screws...
 

bswiz

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The damper door breaks off from the motor so you will not see it move...It is laying in there and when you take the whole assembly out it will be obvious to see what happened..You need to take out the top shelf of the fridge and then take off the air duct on the back of fresh food wall to get at the screws...
Thanks for the help, guys! I was able to remove the damper assembly last night and confirm the door is broken. I had a little trouble getting the assembly out at first since I didn't realize the panel (?) in the ceiling comes out. After that came crashing down, the damper ass'y came right out.

So I just need to order a replacement and hopefully the days of frozen food in the fridge are over.

Next problem is the water dispenser which hasn't worked in a few months!
 

GE JIM

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The water dispenser tank or the tubing that comes off it may have froze..It is located behind the crisper drawers..You might try blowing a hair dryer on it and see if you can thaw it..The fresh food section gets really cold when the damper door breaks..
 

67shelby

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GE Profile Arctica Damper Door

Jim,
My model number is PSI23SGMDBS and the serial number is AD414584. Through past posts I think I have determined I have a faulty damper door. I have followed the diag info and have a question. Do you have a chart of codes for the diagnostic modes for this unit? When I was attempting to exit the diag mode, all of the LEDs lit up across the panel. I must have entered the wrong code and went into a LED check. I had to unplug the fridge to reset it.


Bill
 

MarkJohnson

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I may have the same problem. I'm having difficulty with the diagnostic mode, however. My model (GSS25LGMAWW) has two single-digit temperature controls inside the refrigerator (FF) side door. Holding all four of the buttons does cause it to flash double zeroes--I think that means it has entered Diagnostic Mode. Trouble is, then I try entering FZ 1, FF 0 to start the damper test, but there is no HOLD button to press to initiate it. Pressing some other button (such as the Reset Water Filter) to initiate the test doesn't appear to do anything. After some minutes my fridge appears to drop out of diagnostic mode, going back to normal operating mode with a default temperature setting of 5, 5.

Elsewhere I've read that some models (mine?) require a separate piece of equipment for diagnostic checks.

Anyway, I found View attachment GE_Fridge_diagnostics.pdf for documentation on the diagnostic mode and series of tests.

Today my wife had a technician come out to take a look. He may have done his own diagnostics, and came up with the culprit being a faulty thermistor. Then I was concerned because everything I've read online associates thermistor problems with the freezer, and refrigerated fruits & veggies getting too cold (i.e. frozen) is related to the damper door.

Right now I think my choices are $450 for the thermistor repair, or . . . what? I wish I could run that diagnostic on the damper door.
 

MarkJohnson

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I opted for the mechanical diagnostic, since I couldn't figure out the electronic one. :) By that I mean that I disassembled enough of the unit to get better access to the damper door. (Lamp cover, lamp assembly removed.) By that time I noticed the door looked different inside its little channel, so I took the end of a wooden spoon and gently probed it. The door just flopped to the side, with no resistance at all. I figure it's broken.

So now I'll go order the new damper door kit, WR49X10045. I hope that will solve my problem.

One trouble I'll still have is removing the duct assembly completely. Tonight I removed the screws in the ceiling of the refrigerator compartment, but the duct assembly didn't come all the way free. Seems to be held on with some plastic tabs (or even more screws?) in the back wall. I wiggled it from side the side, but was afraid I'd break something if I pulled much harder.

If it matters, my model's duct along the back wall only runs partway down, not all the way to the floor like I see in some other photos.
 

Jake

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MarkJohnson

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Hi,

Yes, it sounds like the damper door kit will fix it.:)

But the link you posted to it is for the Veg pan temp. reduction kit.

The damper door kit is this one:
Damper Control Assembly WR49X10091 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com
Yes, I think you're right. That's what the unit I almost disassembled from my fridge last night looks like. I see two fastener holes (at the top of your picture) that must anchor it to the back wall. Those are the screws I couldn't see because they're behind another plastic piece (sort of an air duct). I guess that means that other duct needs to be removed, but it doesn't budge. I'm afraid I'm going to break something if I push or pull any harder on it.

By the way, I called the appliance tech back this morning. This is the guy who determined that it was a problem with my thermistors, and estimated $400-450 to fix. I explained my surprise that he didn't mention anything about the damper door when it's a common cause of this problem (according to my research), and by my own inspection it appears broken. His answer is that he would like to come out a second time for a second free diagnostic inspection, this time taking a closer look at the damper door. (He said during the first he'd heard the motor working, and assumed that meant the damper was working.) It doesn't fill me with confidence. :confused:
 

Jake

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fiaz

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Same freezing problem

Thanks a lot for all the information in this thread. The model number for my unit is PSI23SCMABS. The unit came with the condo we bought so I don't know the full history. However ever since we moved in the freezing problem seems to have been there. I finally decided to Google around and came across this information. I was not able to clearly see the damper door after running the diagnostic but I went ahead and order the door assembly anyways. When I took the old unit off it surely was the same broken door problem. As mentioned by Rodney and others in the thread the replacement unit did not look the same. The main difference is that the channel to the bulb housing compartment is missing. However, the freezing problem was fixed and the refrigerator temp control is making a difference. I used a digital thermometer and checked the temperatures and noticed that the Veggie bin is at 33 whereas the top shelf is at 39. This leaves very little room for error before hitting freezing on veggies or unsafe at higher shelves. So, based on the thread again I have ordered the Veggie kit patch and will post back when that is installed. However, there is another problem that I am seeing. Once every few days the temperature on the refrigerator will rise to 40 in the Veggies and 46 in the top shelves. During that time I can hear the compressor running but no cold air in the refrigerator section. Under normal condition if I press the door button close I can feel cold air from the top vents. However, during these high temp periods there seems to be no air flow. I am not sure how low it actually goes but after 4-5 hours the temperature goes back to normal of 33 in the Vegies and 39 in the top shelf. Is this normal?
 

Jake

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Unfortunately, these models have had a rash of issues, they have made software changes to the motherboard to keep the temperature more constant, so you will likely need the motherboard if yours hasn't been changed already.

Here is a new one for your model, you can order it:
Manufacturer part#WR55X10552 is RepairClinic item#1194711
WR55X10552

Whenever you change the motherboard, its also a good idea to change the evaporator fan motor, as some customers reported issues with the evaporator fan motor not working well after a mother board replacement.

Here's the one for your model you can order:
Manufacturer part number WR60X10185 is RepairClinic item number 1170107
WR60X10185

Here's the NOTE that comes with it:
Note: Some models will need this motor if there is a thermistor at the motor harness: 914169


Jake
 

fiaz

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Update on my previous post. It turns out that installing the Veggie repair kit WR49X10045 did the trick. The temperature is holding steady between 36-38 both at upper shelf and veggie tray. I had to set the Deli section in cold i.e. vent fully closed as well. I think I will live with this until I change this unit. However, I have to admit the the Veggie repair kit is a complete rip off at lest for my case. GE should be giving that out for free with an apology letter. Most of the items in the kit is needed to stop freezing in the water dispenser which my unit does not have. I ended up using part of a small foam that needed to be cut into shape from this oddly shaped foam that they sent.
 

Jake

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Yes, I agree with you 100%, it should be free.

Glad that fixed it for now.:)

Thanks for the update.

Jake
 

working4it

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Dumb question..which damper door kit do I need?

Model GSS25PGMBWW... since I have a "25" and "M" in my model which kit do I need?

Damper door broken G.E artica:

Affects all 2001 models produced with "M" as the eight letters in the model i.e.: PSS25SGM with serial date code LA4 , MA4 , RA4 , SA4 , TA4 , VA4 , ZA4 & AD4. Freezing happens when damper door breaks leaving the unit with no control over the very cold air entering fresh food compartment from the freezer.

Replace damper door assy , with new damper door kit:
Damper Control Assembly WR49X10091 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com


To verify the damper door is broken , remove the light shield and rear light bulb from the top of the refrigerator. Enter the factory diagnostic mode by pushing all four temperature control buttons at the same time. Perform damper motor test (FZ 1 , FF 0). Press any other button i.e. Custom cool or filter reset to start damper test cycle. Shine flashlight through right hand side opening of light assembly to view movement of damper door. To exit test mode (FZ 1 , FF 6). lf damper door assembly needs to be replaced , pull top two shelves out 2 ". Pull rear tower assembly slightly forward with both hands, move to the left and the right to expose the two screws that secure the duct assembly , also remove both screws that secure the duct to the ceiling. Replace with new damper motor assembly WR49X10091.


Freezing in crispers G.E artica:

Models Affected: All 23 25 27 and 29 cubic foot electronic side-by-side refrigerator units with plastic Liners manufactured in 2001 or later. This includes all Profile- (Arctica and Eterna") models Consumers have called with reports of freezing in the Vegetable (middle) pan or the CustomCool M (bottom) pan , frozen water tank or frozen water filter.Freezing in the pans , a frozen water tank or a frozen water filter is caused by excessive airflow from the vents in the tower.

To eliminate these freezing issues , install kit:
Vegetable Drawer Insulation Kit WR49X10045 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com
 

Jake

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Jake

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Glad to help.:)

Jake
 

AWM

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How did you finally get off the lower tower on the dampner? I have the same configuration and am afraid I'll break the tower if I force it any more. Is there a special direction I should push or pull in? I tried the pushing/sliding it left or right but can not get it to move.
 

AWM

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removing lower dampner cover

I have a GSS25LGMA. It has the shorter shroud under the dampner. To remove it, grasp at the bottom, center edge. It has a small post you must push up over, after the bottom is free, just pull straight out on the top. There are three tabs across the top
 
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