FIXED Food in Refrigerator Freezing

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JLWatters

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To "marlat63".... we had the same problem with our GE model PSS25MGMAWW. The damper door was indeed broke and because of that, the water line had frozen up also due to the fridge section being too cold. Once we repaired the damper door... to prevent ALL produce, milk etc. from freezing again... the water line thawed out and worked again.
 

JLWatters

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well i tried the test jake posted on the first page(dampner door kit). I didn't even see the black plastic closing/opening. but i could hear a motor going. so i took it out and took it apart. somehow the plastic molding that hooks to the motor broke. i got some super glue and put it back in there and it seems to be good so far. if it doesn't last, i will just buy the kit. it was fairly simple thing to do. I also had no water getting dispensed but it made ice. traced the problem to the solenoid set in the back of the fridge. now i have ice and water. thanks for the advice jake:)
We've glued our 3 times. Finally ordering the assembly today. Gluing seems to last for several months but then breaks again. I called GE today to ask "why" .. or if there was any kind of a recall on the part but they offered no help.. since my fridge was over 5 yrs. old. (For as expensive as they are.. 5-10 yrs. shouldn't be having problems!!) I've thrown a LOT of produce away.. and told my husband we weren't buying any more fresh produce until it was fixed with a new part. I see it has been redesigned... so hopefully the repair part is good.:(
 

tigerhouse

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Thanks to this website I ran out and bought the part and replaced the old one in about 15 minutes. I am assuming this is going to fix the problem. If it does I saved $80.00 just for the service call... Thanks again
 

Jake

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Yes, it should, good job.:)

Jake
 

VaSteve

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Model GSS25PGMB WW... since I have a "25" and "M" in my model which kit do I need?

Damper door broken G.E artica:

Affects all 2001 models produced with "M" as the eight letters in the model i.e.: PSS25SGM with serial date code LA4 , MA4 , RA4 , SA4 , TA4 , VA4 , ZA4 & AD4. Freezing happens when damper door breaks leaving the unit with no control over the very cold air entering fresh food compartment from the freezer.

Replace damper door assy , with new damper door kit:
Damper Control Assembly WR49X10091 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com


To verify the damper door is broken , remove the light shield and rear light bulb from the top of the refrigerator. Enter the factory diagnostic mode by pushing all four temperature control buttons at the same time. Perform damper motor test (FZ 1 , FF 0). Press any other button i.e. Custom cool or filter reset to start damper test cycle. Shine flashlight through right hand side opening of light assembly to view movement of damper door. To exit test mode (FZ 1 , FF 6). lf damper door assembly needs to be replaced , pull top two shelves out 2 ". Pull rear tower assembly slightly forward with both hands, move to the left and the right to expose the two screws that secure the duct assembly , also remove both screws that secure the duct to the ceiling. Replace with new damper motor assembly WR49X10091.


Freezing in crispers G.E artica:

Models Affected: All 23 25 27 and 29 cubic foot electronic side-by-side refrigerator units with plastic Liners manufactured in 2001 or later. This includes all Profile- (Arctica and Eterna") models Consumers have called with reports of freezing in the Vegetable (middle) pan or the CustomCool M (bottom) pan , frozen water tank or frozen water filter.Freezing in the pans , a frozen water tank or a frozen water filter is caused by excessive airflow from the vents in the tower.

To eliminate these freezing issues , install kit:
Vegetable Drawer Insulation Kit WR49X10045 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com



Follow the instructions included in the kit.


I have model number PSS26MGPA ...there's not a lot of info on the web about this particular model. I am having the same food freezing in the fresh foods side issues. I couldn't put my unit into the diagnostic mode as described above (any thoughts?). I'm not crazy about just throwing parts at this. My wife just cleaned the back and coils of the fridge before this started acting up. I have read the motor board is on the back as well..possibly related?

I can take photos if it's helpful. Thanks in advance.
 

Jake

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VaSteve

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Jake,

Completed the test. The two fresh food thermistors read 15.73 and 16.03 in the cup of water test. The values rose slightly while I was cramped behind the fridge, but these were the top values before I climbed out.

What next?
thanks
 

Jake

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Here's the motherboard for your model here:
Manufacturer's Number: WR55X10942


365 day full refund, less shipping return policy if it doesn't fix the problem.

If you can't get it in the diagnotics, you'll need to remove the damper assmebly and see if the damper is still broken off laying in there.

To remove the damper assembly:

Pull top two shelves out 2 ". Pull rear tower assembly slightly forward with both hands, move to the left and the right to expose the two screws that secure the duct assembly , also remove both screws that secure the duct to the ceiling.

Here's what GE Jim said here in post #43 of our main thread on this issue: FIXED Food in Refrigerator Freezing

The damper door breaks off from the motor so you will not see it move...It is laying in there and when you take the whole assembly out it will be obvious to see what happened..You need to take out the top shelf of the fridge and then take off the air duct on the back of fresh food wall to get at the screws...

If the damper door is broken, then you don't need the motherboard, just the damper assembly.
Here's the Damper assembly for your model(Comes with complete instructions):
Damper Control Assembly WR49X10091 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com


Jake
 

Twister

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Model Number: PSW23PSTASS
Brand: GE
Age: 1-5 years

GE Profile Arctica Side-by-side Refrigerator

Model: PSW23PSTASS (3-sided stainless steel)

Purchased: September 2006

Jake/Jim/Anyone -

Problem: About 6-8 months ago the digital temperature readout for the fridge side (set to 37 as recommended by GE) started to read/indicate higher than 37. I would set it back to 37 but the fridge readout would never return to reading 37 even many hours later. So, at first it would read 38, I'd set 37 but the next day it would still read 38, even when you opened up the fridge first thing in morning/the fridge door had been closed all night.

After a day or two it would read 39, I'd set 37 again but it would never indicate 37 as time went on. This process continued over 5-6 months until the fridge temperature guage indicated 59 degrees. When all this began I assumed the fridge cooling capability was slowly failing. However, 3 months ago I put a small analog/needle temperature gauge in the fridge and it indicated a temperature far below what the fridge's digital readout said. (If I remember correctly the analog temp gauge read somewhere very close to 37-42?). My wife also noticed a large chunk of ice forming immediately behind the 'Fresh Produce' tray (this is ~10-12" above the fridge's interior floor/bottom). The ice formed on the back wall on the left hand side over a protruding plastic hump that obviously covers some cooling component/sub-assembly. And, finally, about 10 days ago the milk in the fridge started to freeze if it got to less than about 1/2 gallon.

When this started 5-6 months ago the freezer side would also indicate something (-1, I think?) other than the recommended 0. However, for the last 3-4 months or so it indicates 0/appears to be working normally. The water dispenser on the freezer door and the ice cube maker in the freezer both work fine (so far).

A Sears appliance technician came out about a week ago, saw the ice formation in the fridge and said it was large enough that if he put a heat gun to it that it might damage the plastic part that was iced over and recommended we take all the food out and turn off the fridge and eliminate the ice by letting it melt slowly. He said it's possible that might fix the problem. I doubt it.

So.....the fridge doesn't indicate that it's maintaining the recommended 37 degrees but in fact it's running too cold; so cold that ice is forming behind the Fresh Produce tray and freezing milk stored on the top shelf (just generally too cold in the fridge side and no way to control it).

A correct assessment of the problem would be GREATLY appreciated!!!
<!-- / message --><!-- edit note -->
 
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matttiussi

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Refrigerator is stuck at 28 degrees and will not move to 37.

Does it sound like I need a new Thermistor? Thermistor WR55X10025 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com

Or do I need a new Damper Door Kit? Damper Control Assembly WR49X10091 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com

Hi,

If its freezing most everything in the refrigerator section, then it sounds like you will need the Damper Door Kit.

The problem with the front ice and water dispenser is a different issue, i have run into a few of these problems, the micro-board that controls the dispensers tend to go out as well as that solenoid that opens the ice dispenser door.

Jake
 

Jake

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Cm413

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Food freezing in veg drawer

My refrigerator is reading 29 degrees and my food is frozen in the veg drawer only. What is the cause of s problem? Thanks so much.
Christine
 

Jake

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Thanks,

GE doesn't make their schematics available online, so unfortunately I couldn't help you to run the diagnostics.

Wait, I think I found it to reset the temp control display: Press both refrigerator temperature pads (COLDER and WARMER) simultaneously for 3 seconds.

This kit sounds like what you need if its just freezing in your cripers and lower custom cool pan:

Freezing in cripsers G.E artica:
Models Affected: All 23 25 27 and 29 cubic foot electronic side-by-side refrigerator units with plastic Liners manufactured in 2001 or later. This includes all Profile- (Arctica and Eterna") models Consumers have called with reports of freezing in the Vegetable (middle) pan or the CustomCool M (bottom) pan , frozen water tank or frozen water filter.Freezing in the pans , a frozen water tank or a frozen water filter is caused by excessive airflow from the vents in the tower.

To eliminate these freezing issues , install kit WR49X10045

Follow the instructions included in the kit.

Jake
 

Jake

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Yes it should, keep us posted.

Jake
 

samtex

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Yes it should, keep us posted.

Jake
I wish it did work...

Long story: Had my Artica for maybe 5 years. When we first got it water would freeze up. They came out scratched their head and replaced the motherboard I think. Took 2 or 3 trips. After that it would still freeze up occasionally and the lettuce also, so I turned the temp up slightly. I never checked the actual temp. of the refrigerator. Everything "seemed" fine except I noticed the milk would go sour before the expiration date. I didn't connect the two [duh]

A few months ago I got a thermometer and started checking things. The temp was over 42 degrees. No wonder I was having a spoilage problem. I adjusted the temperature back to around 38f, the milk problem went away but now the lettuce and produce started freezing again.

I saw the "repair kit" that was mentioned. I decided to try and experiment and used tape to stop the flow of the vents into the lower section of the refriderator. This was only marginally successful. There was still about 8 - 10 degree difference between the top and bottom. Like an idiot I went ahead an ordered the kit. It hasn't helped with the veggie temp. Still about 8 - 10 degree drop.

The kit did come with some cheap foam for the water filter and the water reservoir which might be a good modification. On rare occasions I did have some minor freeze ups, only lasting a few hours.

My experience with the kit wasn't positive. If I could have read the actual instructions, I wouldn't have ordered it. It seems you can do the same thing with a roll of duct tape. (close off the lower vents)

Can I get some feed back from someone that has used the kit and found that it actually helped the veggie drawer issue? Does anyone have another solution? For now, we are keeping sensitive produce in the garage refrigerator. (Frigidaire - works great and this was a cheap model)

[PS: A few years ago, I replaced the damper door because the top and bottom of the refrigerator was freezing. The damper door was broken.]
 

samtex

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Update

After spending some more time changing the thermostat setting (actually raised it to a warmer setting) the upper fresh food compartment is now the same temp as the veggie drawer. I have no idea why after 5 days it's now working "properly." Keeping in mind that even before I installed the "kit" I had blocked off the vents myself a week before with blue painter's tape, which essentially did the same thing. I'll keep an eye on it and report back if I have more info. Can any experts explain what happened?
 

Jake

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Thats very odd, but I don't have a clue.

Jake
 
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