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FRIGIDAIRE AFFINITY ATF800FS1 (2008) WASHER WONT SPIN HEAVY LOADS

StayAtHomeMom

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2020
Messages
4
Location
pittsburgh
Model Number
ATF8000FS1
Brand
Frigidaire
Age
More than 10 years
This washer has been a lemon since day one with all of its MANY class action suits on the mold issues.... I have a love / hate relationship with my washer as a stay at home mom. I now can take it apart nearly blindfolded and have the model number memorized. So far I have replaced the, outer door frame, the hinge, the latch the lock actuator, the bellows, the belt, the pump (twice) and now I'm fed up. Grant it that I have saved a lot of money doing these repairs myself, none of them have fixed the true issue of my washer refusing to spin heavy wet towels or comforters.

After replacing the belt it did decide it will spin heavy loads up to the weight of my husbands 3 pair of work jeans. I have accepted this and we have almost come to an agreement this washer and I. Finally, the other day I went to turn it on and it is humming after trying to wash my fleece blanket. I removed the wet blanket and pressed start, now all I get is loud humming. No drainage, no turn of the drum or water coming in. Sooooo, I removed the belt. the spider turns fine and free, the grooved pulley thing on the motor turns free and rolls fine..... NO ERROR CODES WHATSOEVER!!! WHAT IS IT??? I MAY LOSE MY SANITY HERE...
I want to test the motor speed control board.... I need clear simple directions on how to use a multimeter on it after i take it out? PLEASE ANYONE...
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
38,297
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Set your meter on the lowest ohms (Ω) scale, RX1. Disconnect the plug from the motor and measure the resistance of the motor windings (pin 1 to pin 2, pin 1 to pin 3, pin 2 to pin 3). All readings should be between 4 and 6 Ohms.
 

StayAtHomeMom

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2020
Messages
4
Location
pittsburgh
thank you. I know how to test the motor itself, I'm referring to the square white control board next to the motor in the back of the washer on the right side corner.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
38,297
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Since there are no error codes and the motor is not working the problem is either the motor or the motor control board. By checking the motor windings you can eliminate the motor and that just leaves the motor control board. Other than the supply voltage you can't read any voltage output because the control uses PWM (Pulse Width Modulation). By varying the frequency it will effectively change the voltage. Your meter can't read these voltages.
 

StayAtHomeMom

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2020
Messages
4
Location
pittsburgh
Very interesting and informative response. Thanks so much for your input. Will simply test the motor then. is there anything else you can suggest about testing the motor other then what the gentleman above left in his instructions to do so?
 

StayAtHomeMom

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2020
Messages
4
Location
pittsburgh
I did find out that I had to replace the pump a second time because the first time was a fool and I did not clean out the drain hose when I put my replacement part on. I am no longer getting the humming and the barrel is tumbling and filling again. Hose was clogged... which prob is the reason that the original washer pump went bad. Anyone doing the pump should COMPLETELY remove the drain hose. The buildup alone is unbelievable! especially if your husband works in construction and you are washing alot of heavily soiled clothes. I removed it and let it dry out for a few days, then I hit it off the ground outside, bent it and curved it in every direction to loosen the garbage inside and flushed it thoroughly with a hot water. I also cleaned the trap inside the boot and the boot itself before putting them back on to the pump. They are good as new condition. WARNING: You have to have a strong stomach to do so.
 
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