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FIXED Frigidaire dishwasher Model # LFID2422RF4B that stopped working mid-cycle - clicking sound from control board

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lharwerth

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Jul 31, 2009
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Location
San Antonio, TX
Model Number
LFID2422RF4B
Brand
Frigidaire
Age
1-5 years
A couple of weeks ago, we started a cycle and it suddenly stopped before dropping the detergent. The button lights were flashing, and a clicking sound was coming from the "control board area" of the machine. I assumed it was the control board, so I ordered a new one (PART# 5304504655) and replaced it. That didn't fix the problem. I then ordered a new control panel/button panel, and replaced that, but that didn't fix it either. Here is a link to a video of the dishwasher showing its symptoms. Can someone help me diagnose this?
 

pyes

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On, Canada
saw the video, the sound seems to be coming from a bad relay switch. Looks like either your replacement board is also bad or you have some unstable power to the board. between I am no expert on this but based on my little experience.
 

lharwerth

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Thanks a lot for the reply. I've actually replaced the control board twice. The video you watched was made with the brand new board installed. Trying to save some cash on this lemon, I first bought a used board off of Ebay. When it repeated the symptoms, I went back and bought this new one. So, maybe it is a power issue? The machine has not been moved around any recently, and it seems to be on it's own breaker/circuit. If I pull off the kick-plate, and inspect the power box underneath, do you have any idea what I should be looking for?

Just FYI....about a month after the warranty expired, I had to replace the circulation pump. That's the other major repair I had to make on this machine. That's why I call it a lemon.

Thanks again Pyes
 

Jake

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You'll need a multimeter set on AC Volts, put the meter leads in the 2 wire nuts where the main power comes into the dishwasher and your meter should read 120 volts, keep the meter leads in the 2 wire nuts when its clicking like that and see if the 120 volts stays constant.

Look at this thread:

If it stays constant, then it has to be the main control board or a short in your wiring causing it. Check all your wiring to all the parts in the dishwasher.

Here's the control board for your model:
5304504655 Board


Jake
 

pyes

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Location
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I also saw on another post here that someone has to replace both switch panel and board at same time. Per that poster bad switch causing board to fail (eventually) so he changed both switch and board same time. Same like you he changed board first didn't work, then switch panel but didn't work either. Then board again which worked. His theory is that even if you get new board if you have a bad switch it will cause your (new) board to fail again and need to get a board fresh! Meaning replace the switch first if didn't work replace the board then (not the otherway!) Not sure if this is the case always, but just thought of mentioning here if it can be helpful anyway.

My dishwasher too has problem, like you I got a board off ebay but didn't work. I did few tests on keypad/switch panel, and other parts and everything checkout for me. I think I need to get a new board and try again, this time planning to get both board and switch combo and see. Good luck!
 

lharwerth

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Messages
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Location
San Antonio, TX
You'll need a multimeter set on AC Volts, put the meter leads in the 2 wire nuts where the main power comes into the dishwasher and your meter should read 120 volts, keep the meter leads in the 2 wire nuts when its clicking like that and see if the 120 volts stays constant.

Look at this thread:

If it stays constant, then it has to be the main control board or a short in your wiring causing it. Check all your wiring to all the parts in the dishwasher.

Here's the control board for your model:
5304504655 Board


Jake
Thanks Jake,

I guess I'll remove the kick plate to get to the "main power box" and see if I can figure this out. I've only got this Klein Tools Electronic Voltage/Continuity Tester (ET200). Do you think I could perform the test you described with it, or do I need a multimeter with a digital readout?
 

lharwerth

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2009
Messages
11
Location
San Antonio, TX
I also saw on another post here that someone has to replace both switch panel and board at same time. Per that poster bad switch causing board to fail (eventually) so he changed both switch and board same time. Same like you he changed board first didn't work, then switch panel but didn't work either. Then board again which worked. His theory is that even if you get new board if you have a bad switch it will cause your (new) board to fail again and need to get a board fresh! Meaning replace the switch first if didn't work replace the board then (not the otherway!) Not sure if this is the case always, but just thought of mentioning here if it can be helpful anyway.

My dishwasher too has problem, like you I got a board off ebay but didn't work. I did few tests on keypad/switch panel, and other parts and everything checkout for me. I think I need to get a new board and try again, this time planning to get both board and switch combo and see. Good luck!
Thanks Pyes,

I actually have a brand new button panel here now. I ordered it when the first control board I tried didn't fix the dishwasher. Since it didn't seem to be the issue, I packed it back up, and was getting ready to send it back to the dealer. I think your post is suggesting that I've probably "fried" the 2 separate replacement boards that I bought, by not changing them simultaneously with the button/switch panel. Wow, this is pretty frustrating.
 

Jake

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pyes

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Location
On, Canada
Thanks Pyes,

I actually have a brand new button panel here now. I ordered it when the first control board I tried didn't fix the dishwasher. Since it didn't seem to be the issue, I packed it back up, and was getting ready to send it back to the dealer. I think your post is suggesting that I've probably "fried" the 2 separate replacement boards that I bought, by not changing them simultaneously with the button/switch panel. Wow, this is pretty frustrating.
well that's just a theory or assumption based on someones experience.. not necessarily always the case.
 

lharwerth

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Location
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OK, so I pulled the kick plate off, and removed the cover to the electrical box where the power cord (that is plugged into the wall) is connected to the wiring (harness) for the dishwasher. Sure enough, I found a burnt connection, on the white wire, that had burned through and melted the wire nut. I cut and stripped back the wires and replaced the wire nuts to make new connections. Then I quickly connected up the control board and button panel to test it. I turned the breaker on to supply power to the dishwasher, and tried to run a "Rinse Only" cycle for the test. It seemed to be working, so I cancelled the cycle, and tried to start another cycle. At that point, the dishwasher slipped back into the "clicking behavior" that was the original symptom in this post. Could it be that the circuit board is fried, or could it be that I need to replace the complete wiring harness?

I thought when I found the burnt connection that fix it would solve my problem, but it was back to square one. I started looking closer at the door switch. The plug connectors looked a little brown. When I unscrewed and pulled the door switch, and tried to pull the plastic connectors off they began to crumble, and as you can see in this video, they were burnt/melted/welded into the switch, and the plastic connectors were ruined. So, how would you go about fixing this? Obviously I need to buy a new door switch, but should I also buy an all new complete wiring harness too, or would it be possible to cut-off the burnt ends of the wires going to the door switch down 4 inches or so, and splice on new wires with connectors to the existing wire harness. That would save me having to pull the dishwasher out of the cabinet, plus it would save me about $90 for a new wiring harness. What do you guys think? What would you do?

I guess the real question is what could have caused all this wiring getting burned out? I am not even an amateur electrician, so any advice would be helpful.

Lance
 

Jake

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Ok Lance, good job finding the burnt wire connection at the junction box where the main power comes in to the dishwasher.(y)

I saw the video too, and yes bad door latch switch as well.

Here's the door latch switch for your model:
Door Latch 5304516818


Yes, you will need to go to your local hardware store and get new FEMALE electrical terminal spades, then cut off those burnt wires and strip back the wire insulation about a 1/2" with a wire stripping tool, then crimp on the new FEMALE electrical terminal spades on the bare wires that you stripped the insulation back on.

Let us know how it goes.

Jake
 

lharwerth

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Hey! Thanks again Jake.

I think I won't give up yet. I do have a couple of questions. There is one white and one black wire coming from the junction box to the door switch, then one white and one black going from the switch to the control board. My question: Is the orientation of the wires connected to the switch important? In other words, do the wires (white/black) coming from the junction box need to be connected to specific terminals (and the same with the wires going from the switch to the control board)?
1639365597055.png

Looking at this picture, does it matter whether the wires going from the junction box to the switch are on the upper, or lower terminals. I believe that the original orientation was that the black (from the junction box) went to the "bottom left" terminal in the picture, and the white (from the junction box) went to the "top right", and vice-versa with the wires that go to the control board. Does that seem correct to you?
And my last question is: Do you know what gauge wire that is? I may need to buy some wire to splice, because I'm not sure I have enough slack to make the new connections.

Thank you once again. I'm ordering the door switch now.

Lance
 

Jake

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Watch this video below, you will see where the wires go:


Do you know what gauge wire that is?
I believe its 14-16 gauge wire.

Keep us posted.

Jake
 

lharwerth

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Thanks Jake,

I didn't lose track of what side of the latch assembly the white and black wires go, but what about the 2 wires on just the white wire side. Does it matter what terminal on that side of the latch assembly the wires are connected to, or are they interchangeable as long as you keep them on the same side of the latch assembly?

As I mentioned above, (If you're looking at the picture above) I believe that the original orientation was that the black wire (from the junction box) went to the "bottom left" terminal in the picture, and the white wire (from the junction box) went to the "top right" terminal, and vice-versa with the wires that go to the control board. In other words, the wires from the junction box (the white/black) were connected to terminals that were "caddie-corner" from each other, and the same goes for the ones going to the control board. But since the plastic clip holding the spade connectors for the pair of white wires was so burnt/fried, it crumbled in my hand when I tried to disconnect it. So, I'm not positive about the orientation of the white wires. The black wires are still in the latch assembly, so I know how they should connect. I'm just not sure about the white ones.

Lance
 

Jake

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Ok Lance, I'm not understanding what you are asking, if your asking if the white wires on the white side go, that should not matter.

As I mentioned above, (If you're looking at the picture above) I believe that the original orientation was that the black wire (from the junction box) went to the "bottom left" terminal in the picture, and the white wire (from the junction box) went to the "top right" terminal, and vice-versa with the wires that go to the control board. In other words, the wires from the junction box (the white/black) were connected to terminals that were "caddie-corner" from each other, and the same goes for the ones going to the control board. But since the plastic clip holding the spade connectors for the pair of white wires was so burnt/fried, it crumbled in my hand when I tried to disconnect it. So, I'm not positive about the orientation of the white wires. The black wires are still in the latch assembly, so I know how they should connect. I'm just not sure about the white ones
I don't know what your trying to say, make a video of what your saying while you point the video at those wires, I need to see what your talking about.

Jake
 

lharwerth

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Sorry Jake,

I think you answered my question. I guess in trying to be as clear as possible, I over-complicated my question. Let me see if I can make it simpler.

Talking just about the 2 terminals on the "white wire side" of the latch assembly:
One of the terminals is for the white wire coming from the junction box, and the other is for the (white) wire going to the control board. Does it matter which wire goes to which terminal, or are they interchangeable? I think you just told me that it doesn't matter. Is that right?

I just wanted to make sure that I didn't buy a new latch, then quickly ruin it by hooking it up in the wrong way.

Lance
 

Jake

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Got it Lance!

No it does not matter which white goes where, both are WHITE NEUTRAL wires.:)

Jake
 

lharwerth

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OK, so I finally got the dishwasher fixed and running, and now I'm finally getting around to close-out this post. Work and Christmas/New Years slowed me down.

I'd like to especially thank "Jake" for replying to my post, and helping me through the whole process. Also thanks to "Pyes" for his replies and suggestions. Oh and my kids dishpan hands would like to thank you too. Unfortunately, I didn't video my repair job, but this is how I fixed it:

(My directions are probably overkill, but maybe they will help someone else someday....right?)

1.) I purchased the new "Door Latch Assembly" linked in the above post from AppliancePartsPros.com.
2.) I made note of the wire orientation of the 4 wires (2 white, 2 black) to the old door latch, and cut the burned wires to the latch back to a couple of inches from where the wires were bundled together in the door panel.
3.) I then stripped back about an inch of insulation on the (dishwasher end) of the wires showing good copper on all 4 wires.
4.) I bought a 3 ft. piece black 14 gauge wire, and 3 ft. piece of white 14 gauge wire. I also bought a small package of heat shrink tubing, and a small box of insulated female spade connectors.
5.) I measured and cut 2 pieces of the (new) white, and 2 pieces of (new) black wire to size, and stripped back about an inch of insulation on one end those wires.
6.) Then I stripped back about 1/2 inch on the other end of each of the new cut pieces of wire, then inserted them into spade connectors, and crimped one on each piece of new wire. So I had 4 short (6 inch) wires, 2 white and 2 black, with female spade connectors at one end, and 1 inch of bare copper at the other end.
7.) I then slid a piece of the heat shrink tubing on the bare end of my new wire connectors. (Don't forget to do this before splicing wires together.)
8.) I then twisted the bare copper ends of new wires to the bare copper ends of the wires of the dishwasher. (Obviously white-to-white and black-to-black.)
9.) Once the connection is twisted nicely (look-up Western Union Splice), slide the heat shrink tubing over the splice, and apply heat to seal it, starting in the middle, and working your way to the ends of the tubing. I used a lighter - keeping it moving so as not to burn the tubing.
10.) I then plugged the new spade connectors into the latch assembly, and re-attached the latch to the door frame. I turned on the breaker and tested it.
11.) I put the door back together on Christmas Eve, and it has worked fine since.

Mark this one "FIXED".

Thanks!
Lance
 

Jake

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Excellent Lance, good job fixing it with the new door latch assembly.(y)

Thanks for the update and the steps you posted to detail it!

Jake
 
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