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FIXED Frigidaire Dishwasher (Model# LFID2422RF4B) the heating element has continuity, but won't dry or sanitize dishes.

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Premium Member
Jul 31, 2009
San Antonio, TX
Model Number
1-5 years
I set the dishwasher to do full "Pots & Pans" cycle with "Sanitize" option selected. The dishwasher goes through full cycle, but dishes aren't cleaned well, and they aren't dry. Also, when cycle is finished the "Clean" indicator light is on, but the "Sanitized" indicator light is not on.

I know that the dishwasher isn't heating. I ordered a new heating element, and was in the process of swapping out the old one. I pulled it out and did a continuity check on it and it shows continuity. Could it still be bad? I thought I'd ask before putting in a new one and perhaps not being able to get my money back if the heating element is not the problem.

Does the fact that the "Sanitize" light does not turn on at the end of the cycle point to something other than the heating element? Should I just go ahead and replace the element?

Hi, the heating element is good if you have continuity through it. This video shows how to ohm test the heating element: https://www.repairclinic.com/Repair...-Drying-Dishes-Heating-Element-Testing-Repair

You have a high-limit thermostat in-between your heating element and control board, You'll need to ohm that hi-limit thermostat with a multimeter to test for continuity, should read 0 ohms.

The high-limit thermostat is underneath your tub, just take the front lower access panel off and get a flashlight or drop-light and you will see it.

Turn the breaker off to your dishwasher before you ohm test it.

Here's the hi-limit thermostat for your model:
154642901 Thermostat

This video shows you how to ohm test it:

If the hi-limit thermostat ohm tests good, then the only part left that would make it not heat is the control board.

Here's the control board for your model:
5304504655 Board

Let us know what you find.

Thanks for the reply Jake,

1.) I removed the kick panel, and pulled the dishwasher out about half-way, to get access to the electrical leads on the heating element.
2.) After removing the wire leads and brass nuts, and pulling the heating element out, I checked it with my continuity tester,
3.) I went around to the other side of the tub and pulled the wire leads off of the thermostat.
4.) I then placed the continuity tester on the contacts of the thermostat, and it showed it had continuity as well.
(BTW, is this a valid test, or do you think I need to completely uninstall the thermostat to do this test?)

So, if the thermostat is also good, I guess I'm down to the control board (or maybe a wiring issue?). Luckily I already have a control board left over from the last repair on this dishwasher that you helped me with back in January. (https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/posts/457225/)

I'll let you know what I find when I remove the door panel.

Thanks again Jake,
Ok Lance, All you need to do is remove the wires from the heating element and hi-limit thermostat to ohm test them. Make sure your you disconnect power to your dishwasher first!

If both ohm test good, then the control board is the culprit.

Thanks Jake,

I'm grabbing the control board and my screwdriver now. And yes, I should have mentioned that I did switch-off the circuit breaker to the dishwasher before I did anything. Wish me luck. I'll post the results.

Ok Lance, good luck!

Well, I took the brand new control board and replaced the old one. On inspecting the old one, I found what looked like a "burn mark" on the back of the board. (Shown here in this short video.)
Ah ha! I thought.....that had to be the culprit. I ran a full dishwasher cycle last night with the new control board installed, and unfortunately, the heating element still did not work to sanitize or dry the dishes. The rest of the complete cycle seems to be functioning, just no heat from the element. So, I'm back to square one. Any ideas on where I should go from here?

Here's the wiring diagram Lance: https://ecommcdnprod.azureedge.net/...oduct_support/FFI/FFID2426TW3A/A02841501B.pdf

P8 on the control board goes to the hi-limit thermostat and heater to the WHITE NEUTRAL wire on the control board, check it there for 120 volts when its in the dry cycle, no 120 volts=BAD BOARD if you do get 120 volts, then you have a broken wire from the control board to the hi-limit thermostat or heating element.

That's all it can be.:)

Well, I've got back to working on the old dishwasher again this weekend. We had been running it without the heating element for a while since I just didn't have any time to work on it. I think I finally got it fixed....again.

I pulled it completely out of the wall and flipped it over on it's back to look at the wiring. I found no burnt or broken wires, but as I inspected the right-angle spade connectors that attach to the heating element, I noticed the one on the white wire looked like it might have a burn mark , or rust mark, on the plastic covering.

I looked a little closer and I was believing that I was seeing some corrosion as well. I thought, what the hell, I already have some female spade connectors from my previous repair of the door latch assembly:

So I cut-off the suspicious connector, stripped the wire back !/4 inch, and attached a new (straight) spade connector. I reconnected everything, I ran the test cycle (shown on the PDF that Jake posted in the wiring diagram just above this post), and BINGO!!....the heating element fired up. I almost burned the crap out of my hand when I touched it to see if it had activated. Anyway, I believe this thread can now be marked "FIXED".

The wiring and connectors on this machine have been very poor. If you have a similar model and can't figure out what is wrong with it. Check all the connectors and wiring for shorts and burns. I've learned the hard way.

Excellent Lance, good job fixing it.(y)

Thanks for the update!

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