Frigidaire FGF366BCB Bake and Broil won't work -- Both igniters bad?

macche

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Aug 22, 2019
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5
Location
Upstate NY
Model Number
FGF366BCB
Brand
Frigidaire
Age
6-10 years
I recently acquired a Frigidaire LP range that I was told worked with no issues (actual age unknown). The cooktop burners light and work fine, however neither the oven nor the broiler will light. Both of the igniters glow.

I understand that the igniters are the most common problem, but my question is what is the likelihood of both of them being faulty? Or if one of them is faulty would it cause both to not light?

I have a voltmeter and attempted to test the safety gas valve, but don’t trust the results since I don’t exactly know what I’m doing and my results were far from expected values.

Wiring diagram is attached.
 

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Jake

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Ok, Lets first check the little lever on your gas regulator to make sure that's not closed.

Here's the photo of your gas regulator, see the brass lever on the back right side of it?



Jake
 

Jake

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If that brass lever is down, then its fine.

Next we would ohm test the oven safety valve. When you click the link to the oven safety valve you will see a video of how to ohm test it. Make sure your range is unplugged from the wall outlet first.

Here's the oven safety valve assembly for your model:
Safety Valve 5303208499


Jake
 

macche

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Location
Upstate NY
If the brass lever is down, then the gas should be supplied to the oven? The manuals and other instructions I've found say that the up position is ON -- which I've found confusing -- does that indicate gas is on, or safety valve is on?

In any case, I tested that lever in both positions and it did not solve the problem.

I tested the resistances of both sets of terminals on the safety valve. Using the resistance with beep setting, I was getting between 1,000 and 2,000 but no beep. On the 200 setting, it didn't change from 1. I also tested the 2K setting, and was again getting between 1,000 and 2000. These values are nothing like what I found in tutorials, so I thought maybe I was doing something wrong?
 

Jake

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Normal would between 0 to 5 ohms when your meter is set on 200 ohms. Do you have fresh batteries in your meter?

Jake
 

macche

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Messages
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Location
Upstate NY
I tested using a different multimeter, and results showed continuity at both sets of terminals on the safety valve.

I also tested the amp draw of the igniters and found 2.75amps for the oven igniter, and 3.36amps for the broiler igniter. This would indicate that the oven igniter needs replacing but the broiler igniter should be okay? Any possible explanations as to why the broiler won't light if the igniter and safety valve both are testing okay?
 

Jake

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Ok, Both igniters are 3.2 to 3.6 amp igniters, so the bake igniter is definity bad, the broil igniter is just barely good.

Here's the bake igniter for your model:
5303935066 Oven Igniter


C-OVEN AMPS.jpg


Jake
 

Jake

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If the broil ignitor glows orange and its at 3.2 to 3.6 amps, then it has to be a bad oven safety valve.

Jake
 

macche

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Upstate NY
I went ahead and replaced the oven igniter and the oven lights now. For about a day after doing so, I did notice a slight gas smell near the bottom of the oven, so I thought maybe there was something wrong with the safety valve after all and it was stuck open? The gas smell has since gone away and the oven still lights.

Interestingly, the broil still won't light but the igniter is now drawing around 3 amps. I will likely replace that next, but I am wondering if an oven igniter can be used in place of the broil igniter? It looks like the only difference is in the length of the body the extends to the back of the oven, and using an oven igniter instead of broil would just have wires extend through the hole instead of igniter body.
 

Jake

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I am wondering if an oven igniter can be used in place of the broil igniter?
Not that I'm aware of.

Here's the broil ignitor glow bar for your model:
316119302 Igniter


Jake
 
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