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FIXED Frigidaire front loader FWT445GES2 motor won't spin

rj123456

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2005
Messages
6
Location
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Model Number
FWT445GES2
Brand
Frigidaire
Age
6-10 years
Our Frigidaire front loader FWT445GES2 (purchased 7/98) has stopped spinning. It runs through the entire cycle and leaves the clothes quite wet and all the soap sticks to the bottom. Basically I don't think the motor spins at all, but the drain is functioning normally.

I had a Sears tech come out and look at it and he popped the front panel open, talked on the phone with someone and within minutes declared that I needed a new motor and new control panel with an estimated grand total cost of $599 (which is about what I paid for the washer!).

I don't know how he came to that conclusion because the diagnostics suggested seem to be much more complex, see below). So I took apart the back panel, and following another thread here [Frigidaire Washing Machine, model: fwt449gfs2], I was able to locate the service documents buried in the machine (the wiring diagram is slightly different than the one posted previously). For example, there is no test connector.

I tried the diagnostics suggested and I got two different results...in one case I was able to go through the entire sequence and at the end it says check the motor windings.
I don't know what that means but I took out the 10-pin motor connector (with the power off) and measured the winding resistance for the various windings, which the diagram says are of the order of 1-5 ohms. My meter showed these as being essentially open. Am I supposed to test the winding resistance with the power on??? At any rate, per the tests my timing control board is not defective so I wonder why Sears wanted to replace it...

Also, when I start the cycle there is some kind of hum as if there is a motor running - is that just the timer?

I redid the diagnostics suggested one more time and this time I got no voltage between C2.2 and C2.4 (which previously was the line voltage "135V" - I'm surprised that its that high but it could also be my cheap&&& multimeter).

Any way, the diagnostic sheet claims at this point to check the motor thermal cut out, but doesn't specify how to...please advise?

Sorry for the super long post but I'm impressed by the knowledge of the people on this forum so I want to you all the gory details!

Finally, in case I have to replace the motor, does anyone know if the motor (and/or the wiring) has changed between 1997 and the newer models? I found a new motor (part # 131276200).

Thanks in advance!
 

jnicosia

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2004
Messages
67
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Hello, I am not a tech but a few comments:

1) I have heard of there being a bad connection wire between the motor and the control board. That would create the condition that you have, motor tests OK and board tests OK. Although you said that the motor tested bad on the first try. A motor should have 5 Ohms resistance with NO power to it.

2) Early models of this washer had a DC motor, and later models had an AC motor. You can probably check which type you have by running the part number on your existing motor in Repairclinic.com .

3) Test the fuse on the control board. If the fuse is bad, then the control board is in need of replacement Manufacturer Number 131725300

Statistically speaking these machines seem to need control boards more often than motors, but my bet right now is a bad motor or a bad wire to the motor.

Get yourself a good voltmeter too !

-John



JAKE ARE THE BRUSHES ON THESE MOTORS REPLACEABLE ??
 

rj123456

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2005
Messages
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Location
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When you say the older motors were DC, how long ago was that. My unit was purchased in July 1998 and the one of the product sheets had a date of 12/97 so it was manufactured at least after that. Also as far as I can tell there is no transformer anywhere (and not shown on the wiring diagram either) so its likely mine is an AC motor as well.
 

jnicosia

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2004
Messages
67
Location
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Jake can correct me on this, but I thought that there was a 97-98 timeline for the DC motor end. You are on borderline date-wise.

You can probably call repairclinic.com and they can tell you what you have by the part numbers. By the look of your control board, my guess is that you have the DC motor.
 

Dan O.

Appliance Tech
Staff member
Joined
Oct 9, 2004
Messages
2,943
Location
Canada
jnicosia wrote:
I thought that there was a 97-98 timeline for the DC motor end.
The A/C motor Frigidaire front load washers started production Dec. 15th, 1999 but there were still a small number of DC motor units produced into the beginning of 2000.

BTW. You can get a repair manual for the DC motor Frigidaire front-load washer at this link:

LINK > Frigidaire with DC Motor Service Manual

JFYI

Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~
 

rj123456

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2005
Messages
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BTW, thanks to all the responses here I'm impressed by the knowledge on this site!!!

I found the wiring schematics on the Frigidaire web site and the symbol for the motor has definitely changed from the 97-99 models (looks like an inductor with a center tap) to the newer models (looks like a 3 phase motor - but I don't know how they get 3 phases from a single phase 120V supply! (ashamed to admit its been 20 years after an EE degree).
 

jnicosia

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Nov 11, 2004
Messages
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RJ,

I would not mess with guessing on this. Simply run the part numbers that are on your existing machine to see what you have.

And please let us know how you make out. Sharing what you have learned helps us help others. In the last 2 weeks the number of postings of people with Frigidaire washer problems on this website has gone thru the roof !

Thanks!

-John
 

rj123456

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Mar 15, 2005
Messages
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I finally bought a new Frigidaire washer and the store said that I could use the old drier with the stacking kit (which they sold me for $15, and its two little plates that were already used to stack the dryer on the older washer. But the newer washer front panel sticks up about 1/2 inch above the rim along the side so it just won't stack. (I'll post pictures tomorrow...aaagh).
 

ACE

Appliance Tech
Joined
Jun 29, 2005
Messages
42
Location
Montana, USA
Every service call I've had regarding this symptom, (about 30-40), has always turned up to be the timer or the speed control board. I've never had to replace a motor. NEVER!!!!!!!!!! HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
Sorry.... I'm feeling weird today.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
111,162
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yea, about 80% is the motor controller, I have found a slight few where the motor connector pins have worked there way out of place, causing the motor not to run.

I change about 20-40 control boards a year.:D

Jake
 

ebaandit

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2005
Messages
4
Location
milwaukee
Check Connections

I have a Frigidaire FWT445GES2 build date 02/98 that has had the no motor operation problem 3 times since May 2005. The first time, after going through all the test procedures and finding nothing wrong via multimeter I reassembled the washer. Plugging it back in I was very surprised when it worked as if there was no problem at all. Then in August the same problem again!

Thinking that the only thing I "repaired" the first time was to move wires and connectors around, I found that (with the machine unplugged) removing the top cover and unplugging and then replugging the connectors on the timer got the motor to work again.

Well now it's October and I located a new timer:
Timer 131583200


I'm going to investigate those connections a little closer this time. It will only cost me time if it works again. (so glad I did not stack the dryer on the washer) I will post the results.
 
Last edited:

ebaandit

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2005
Messages
4
Location
milwaukee
It worked again

Fixed it again. This time I used an pick tool on the individual female spade terminals in each of the plastic connector blocks that plug into the timer. (washer unplugged) By prying on both sides of the terminals I'm hoping to improve the connection and the need to do this repair again in two or three months. I only worked on the large color coded plugs because they were the ones that unplugged with the least resistance, (loose). From front to back on the timer they are white, blue, brown, yellow, and red. All the other terminals were on so tight that I did not remove them for fear of breaking a connection inside the timer. Hope this helps.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Glad you got it fixed again ebaandit!:)

Thanks for the information!:D

Jake
 
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