Thanks for your response.
Let me explain what is going on with my washer. The washer is working fine during wash and rinse. When it comes to the final spin the washer tub is moving back and forth like it is doing wash and rinse. The drain pump is running.
For your info this is the first time I am working on a washer but I have been working on other appliances before.
On the Technical Sheet there is an explanation on Motor Movement as follow:
1. Check the power:
Advance the timer knob to the drain increment. If the drain pump does not run, check household safety circuit. If the drain pump runs go to step 2. Done, drain pump is running.
2. Check for Motor Movement:
Turn the water off to the washer. Remove electrical power from the washer and remove the back panel. Remove the motor drive belt. Reconnect electrical power and set the timer to the start of the Regular wash cycle and pull the knob out. If motor does not rotate, check for a poor connection in the timer line switch or door lock switch. If good, and motor does not run go to step 3. Done, motor is running when the timer is set to the Heavy Wash position of the Regular was cycle only.
3. Measure Voltages:
Remove the six pin plug from the speed control unit. Measure the voltage between pins 5 and 6 of the harness. If the meter reads 0 check the connection in the timer line switch or door lock. If the meter reads 120 Vac go to step 4. Done, meter reads 120 Vac.
4. Set the timer to the Heavy Wash position of the Regular wash cycle. Remove the ten pin plug from the speed control unit. Measure the voltage between pins 1, 2, 6 and 10 of the ten pin plug to pin 5 of the 6 pin plug on the harness. The voltage at pins 2, 6 and 10 should read 120 Vac and 0 Vac at pin 1. Done, but the result is different. Pins 1 and 10 showed 120 Vac but pins 2 and 6 showed 0 Vac. There is no cable at pin 2 of the ten pin plug on the harness. If not, check timer contacts 1C to 1B, 5C to 5B, and 7C to 7B for closed contacts, and 3C to 3B for open contacts. If the voltage readins are correct, go to step 5. Not done, because of the different result on previous step. Why is the ten pin plug harness different than the technical spec?
5 Measure Resistances:
Check the fuse on the speed control board. If the fuse is open, replace the speed control board. If good, go to step 6. Not done, but I assume it is good because the motor is running.
6. Remove the 6 pin plug from the speed control unit. Measure the resistance between pins 1 and 2, 2 and 3, and 3 and 1 of the speed control unit. If the meter reads other than 3 Meg ohms + 10%, replace the speed control board.
7. Remove electrical power from the washer. With an ohmmeter check the resistance between pins 1 and 2, 2 and 3, and 3 and 1 of the six pin plug on the harness. If the meter reads other than 2.6 ohms + 7 %, replace the motor.
We have a Frigidaire Gallery front loader - I have extended warranty on it and have just had it in and had the bearing replaced..as it was like an airplane in spin mode.. we just got it back yesterday... and it will not go into its final spin cycle, unless we unload 1/2 of the load out of it.. then it will spin... I have been doing quite a bit of reading/searching on here, and haven't seen anything that said it will spin if u only have a 1/2 load in it.. but, otherwise it is doing exactly what is listed in this thread.. can you help us out??
Model GLTF1240AS0- thank you..
I recently had this issue with my FWT647GHS1 Frigidaire Gallery front-loading washer and it turned out to be the door latch.
The first time it happened years ago I called out a tech only to find out it was because I didn't have a heavy enough load in the washer.
This time I checked this forum first and found a number of suggestions, many of which suggested using a voltage meter to check various pins that connect to the speed control unit. I went to my local Harbor Freight and picked up two multimeters for $4 each!
If you are interested in doing this kind of testing, open the bottom panel of the washer and pull out the tech sheet you should find in a manila envelope taped to the inside. On that sheet is a pretty good list of step by step instructions to check these connections.
My lack of confidence was my undoing. I wasn't getting a 120V reading when I was supposed to, but I thought I wasn't doing something right, so I figured that the timer was the problem. $108 later I found out I was wrong.
Next I figured the problem was the speed control unit. I should have known better, because if the voltage wasn't getting to the speed control unit then it shouldn't have been my next step. $106 later I found out the speed control unit wasn't the problem.
The only other possibility, it seemed, was the door latch. Turns out that was it. After having been to the parts store twice already that day they cut me an awesome break on the price, but since I couldn't return the other two parts I was still out more than $200.
I learned a lot, and believe it or not I enjoyed the whole process, but I wish I had taken the advice of the first poster in this thread -- the door latch was the cheapest of the parts and would have fixed it on the first try.
Now it's time to fix the water buildup in my Kenmore fridge!
OK, my frigidaire front loader was purchased in 2007. It has had lots of work since then. This week it suddenly stopped spinning during the spin cycles. The drum moves normally during the wash cycles but then does not spin anymore.
Wouldn't that mean the motor is fine? Also, the belt is 100%. Looks great. What else could it be? The door lock light is on, but we have not tried testing it's voltage.
What would be your suggestions? Should I follow the above advice? Or, since it's a newer model, do something different. I called a local appliance store and he walked me through a couple of things on the phone. Nothing about the door latch. He thought it might be worn-out bearings, but I tried moving the steel drum inside and there was no play between it and the washer...other than the normal give and take of the shocks and springs.
He also said he'd never had a frigidaire motor die. He was emphatic.
Here's the repair manual for your model:
3.0 cu.ft. Horizontal Axis Front-Load Washer (Good & Better Models): www.applianceblog.com/manuals/5995413084_Washer_2004.pdf
You can run the diagnostics and see if an error code comes up, Read Page 10. You have the "GOOD" model(non-digital display). So an error code will be read with the flashing lights you count.
ok, thanks. I'll have to get an ohm meter. Funny how it works so well during the diagnostic test. In fact, we washed 2 loads yesterday running the regular wash cycle and then using the diagnostic test to rinse and spin. Worked well, other than having to sit there and manually run the rinse and spin cycles.
Ok, so just to make sure here. Even though the door does lock properly, that's the part that's not working. When it is washing, the door IS locked and I cannot open it. When I run it through the diagnostic testing, the door IS locked and I cannot open it...except on the one setting where it tells you you CAN open it but don't do it.
You're saying that for whatever reason (lack of ohms resistance), the system thinks the door is not locked and therefore it isn't allowing the washer to complete its cycle, even though the door DOES actually lock.