FIXED Frigidaire Refrigerator FRS24ZSGB0 icemaker will not fill with water

[Gryphon]

Model Number

FRS24ZSGB0

Brand

Frigidaire

Age

More than 10 years

Frigidaire Gallery Professional FRS24ZSGB0 icemaker will not fill with water and make cubes. It was working fine before vacation. When returned, no ice and water fill tube was frozen. Defrosted it and no water so changed water inlet valve . When we manually recycle icemaker and the freezer has been on long enough the water inlet valve attempts to allow water into hose leading to the fill tube (solenoid sounds like it's trying to engage). Figured maybe icemaker not sending proper voltage to new water inlet valve to put in new icemaker. After waiting again for freezer to reach 0 degrees, again manually cycled icemaker and solenoid again seemed to engage to try to let water flow thru tube up to the icemaker fill tube but only a trickle, By the way, the water at the door (other solenoid on the dual inlet valve) works fine saying at least water is getting to the dual water inlet valve. Also, looks like there is an assembly buried in the wiring near the dual water inlet valve and some of the schematics show a two diode assembly but can't find anything about this and our problem.

Do you know what might be the problem as it's a big mystery to us.

Gary and Kathy

 

[rickgburton]

so changed water inlet valve .

Which one, the isolation valve or the dual valve? Sounds like you're losing water pressure somewhere. Break the water system down to sections to find where.

Check the water pressure at the isolation valve. If it's good disconnect the water line going into the dual valve from the water tank. That checks the filter and water tank. Then disconnect the water line for the ice maker from the dual valve. Force cycle the ice maker and check the pressure coming out of the dual valve. If the problem is the dual valve, it's been discontinued.

 

[Gryphon]

Thanks. Since the first post we checked the voltage at the ice maker water valve and it was 120v for only a second across the two terminals, not for 5-9 seconds. When no water came out took the front door chilled water door switch/solenoid connector and put it on the ice maker solenoid. When we hit the front door water chill switch the ice maker solenoid acted just fine and water streamed out of the hose into a bucket. This tells us no issue with water pressure or dual water inlet valve. Sounds more like proper voltage for the proper time is not getting to the ice maker solenoid. Would have suspected ice maker was not sending the 120 volts properly but had just installed brand new icemaker out of the box. No idea why just 120 volts for a second, any idea? This is driving me crazy. I can't find any broken or crimped wires either.

 

[rickgburton]

ice maker was not sending the 120 volts properly

Correct.

Here's the ice maker for your model:

Frigidaire 5303918277 Replacement Icemaker (AP3160597) - AppliancePartsPros.com

By Frigidaire. Fits most Frigidaire, Gibson, White Westinghouse and Kelvinator refrigerator models. Cord has four round female connectors, comes with an adapter that will convert it to three round female and one round male connectors. This is a replacement part only and is not used for brand new...

click.linksynergy.com

 

[Gryphon]

Any way to check voltages at ice maker to the dual inlet valve? The ice maker turns but no water goes to it.

 

[Gryphon]

Hi,
attaching a schematic of our icemaker that came with the fridge. we checked ohms between the yellow and black (brown) in the molded plug and when cam called for water (rotate by screwdriver), the call for water switch engaged and black and yellow were connected. This means that assuming there was 120VAC to the unit via the black, the yellow that eventually shows up at the icemaker call for water solenoid should also see 120V. What actually happens when everything plugged back in, when the cam rotates, the solenoid engages for a short time (very weak) and nothing like when we hooked 120v directly to the solenoid (and it worked well). What could cause a working icemaker to not deliver full voltage to the solenoid to put water into the fill tube?

Any Ideas? Thanks

 

[Jake]

What could cause a working icemaker to not deliver full voltage to the solenoid to put water into the fill tube?

The ice maker itself supplies 120 Volts to the water inlet valve.

Jake

 

[Gryphon]

Rick & Jake. Thanks, ordered the part from Appliance Parts Pro and will try another ice maker. Thank you for your help as my wife will not give up this refrigerator, lol. Will give you nod after we get the next one delivered and installed.

 

[rickgburton]

Sounds good. Keep us posted.

 

[Gryphon]

Rick & Jake, received the new ice maker from Appliance Parts Pro on Sunday, without the adaptor as shown on the video. Luckily we had one. Installed it and still no water to the ice maker. Now we own 3 ice makers! Just to reiterate, the solenoid comes on weakly (new from Raleigh appliance store) stays on for a while but no water makes it to the chute. When we place the front door solenoid connector (yellow) on the green water fill solenoid, the solenoid works great and water comes out into a bucket, no problem. Please help, she will not give up this refrigerator. The filter is new, the doors close perfectly, the freezer is 2 degrees and I'm totally out of ideas. It appears that all 3 ice makers when doing ohms measurement power is delivered to the yellow wire at the connector out of the ice makers. Could there be a loose connector, broken wire? Thank you.

 

[rickgburton]

checked the voltage at the ice maker water valve and it was 120v for only a second across the two terminals, not for 5-9 seconds.

What could cause a working icemaker to not deliver full voltage to the solenoid

When we place the front door solenoid connector (yellow) on the green water fill solenoid, the solenoid works great

I'm getting mixed signals. I think you're missing something (or maybe I am). On your valve, what color is the solenoid for the ice maker. Is it green and the dispenser coil yellow?

Machine plugged in and running and all connections made, take all the voltage measurements through the back of the connectors. If your meter leads tips are too big, try this:

Force cycle the ice maker. Measure the voltage across the ice maker solenoid (green?) and the white or light blue solenoid on the isolation valve. You can force cycle the ice maker a second time to get both measurements. Your meter should indicate 120 VAC for about 7 seconds on both solenoids.

If the voltage is not correct or less than a few seconds, insert you meter leads in the back of the ice maker connector/plug on the white wire and the blue or yellow wire. Force cycle the ice maker and watch for 120 VAC for about 7 seconds at the end of the harvest cycle.

 

[Gryphon]

Rick, thanks for getting back in touch. Green for the solenoid ice maker and yellow for dispenser. It measured 190 ohms to green ice and 220 ohms to dispenser. Getting 90 volts for the green solenoid when both ice maker plug and solenoid plug are connected. Inside the freezer the ice maker power supply plug shows 120 volts white neutral and black power wire with the ice maker disconnected. Again, with the ice maker disconnected a jumper between the black of the power supply plug and the yellow of same plug causes the solenoid to energize but with reduced voltage so never pushing out water. Took off the back power inlet cover and can see the blue wire coming from the green ice maker solenoid going into the freezer and physically looks fine but maybe broken somewhere. Also checked the neutral white clump of wires down at the solenoids and they appear ok. Pictures attached. So, there is apparently a voltage drop from the ice maker to the solenoid somewhere in the neutral or blue wire path which is causing the new solenoid to not fire. Any ideas?

 

[rickgburton]

white neutral and black power wire with the ice maker disconnected.

Here's the problem. You're not following my instructions. Don't make up your own tests or we'll never get it figured. Do you know how to force cycle the ice maker??

 

[Gryphon]

Rick, we tried and did what you suggested. Green for ice maker

We followed your first step:

Force cycle the ice maker. Measure the voltage across the ice maker solenoid (green?) and the white or light blue solenoid on the isolation valve. You can force cycle the ice maker a second time to get both measurements. Your meter should indicate 120 VAC for about 7 seconds on both solenoids.

We did this (measured voltage across solenoid while connected) and it measured 90V. Since voltage wasn't corre3ct, we did the next step you suggested:

If the voltage is not correct or less than a few seconds, insert your meter leads in the back of the ice maker connector/plug on the white wire and the blue or yellow wire. Force cycle the ice maker and watch for 120 VAC for about 7 seconds at the end of the harvest cycle.

We did this (between white wire and yellow wire) and it measured 90V as you would expect as everything is connected when measurements are taken at both ends (solenoid and icemaker).

Other information was provided as it appears that is a voltage drop between the power at the icemaker coming in and the solenoid and we don't know why that would be.

 

[Jake]

Remove the electrical connector from the ice maker side of the water inlet valve and put your meter probes in each of the two wires on that electrical connector and see if you get 120 volts when the ice maker calls for water.

If you still get 90 volts, then you have a pinched or shorted wire from the ice maker to the water inlet valve, check the wiring thoroughly.

Jake

 

[rickgburton]

Since voltage wasn't corre3ct, we did the next step you suggested:

OK, so the voltage was only 90V at the green solenoid. Was the voltage on the isolation valve also 90V?

voltage drop between the power at the icemaker coming in and the solenoid

Do you have 120 VAC across the black and white wires going into the ice maker? When you force cycle the ice maker, during the fill cycle do you only get 90 VAC across the white and yellow wires?

 

[Gryphon]

Remove the electrical connector from the ice maker side of the water inlet valve and put your meter probes in each of the two wires on that electrical connector and see if you get 120 volts when the ice maker calls for water.

If you still get 90 volts, then you have a pinched or shorted wire from the ice maker to the water inlet valve, check the wiring thoroughly.

Jake

Jake,

Disconnected green icemaker water inlet valve and checked voltage across the connector terminals when icemaker force-cycled and got 120V for approximately 7 seconds. Earlier in the thread, per your/Rick's info, we checked voltage at the green icemaker solenoid with everything connected (Rick's pin idea to get into back of connectors) and got 90V at a forced icemaker cycle. We also measured 90V at the icemaker between the white and yellow wires as you'd expect since really just measuring opposite ends of the same wire. We got 120V going into icemaker connector (white and black wire). Lastly, you had mentioned checking voltage at isolation valve as well. Our fridge has a separate isolation valve (see picture attached) where water comes in from wall and goes to another yellow and green set of solenoids on the right of our fridge at back. The water output of those solenoids goes to a Y 1/4" hose fitting and then to the water filter inside the fridge. Since we were getting chilled water just fine to the front door, didn't measure voltage to isolation solenoids.

So with all this info, any diagnosis? Thanks.

 

[Gryphon]

OK, so the voltage was only 90V at the green solenoid. Was the voltage on the isolation valve also 90V?

Do you have 120 VAC across the black and white wires going into the ice maker? When you force cycle the ice maker, during the fill cycle do you only get 90 VAC across the white and yellow wires?

View attachment 60090

Rick,
Did as you asked for the icemaker voltage measurement and we do have 120 VAC across the wires going to the icemaker. When we force cycle the icemaker, during the fill cycle we only get 90VAC across the white and yellow wires.

Also, our fridge has a separate isolation valve (see picture attached) where water comes in from wall and goes to another yellow and green set of solenoids on the right of our fridge at back. The water output of those solenoids goes to a Y 1/4" hose fitting and then to the water filter inside the fridge. Since we were getting chilled water just fine to the front door, didn't measure voltage to isolation solenoids and would expect those would both be 120VAC.

So with this info, any diagnosis? Thanks

 

[Jake]

Disconnected green icemaker water inlet valve and checked voltage across the connector terminals when icemaker force-cycled and got 120V for approximately 7 seconds. Earlier in the thread, per your/Rick's info, we checked voltage at the green icemaker solenoid with everything connected (Rick's pin idea to get into back of connectors) and got 90V at a forced icemaker cycle.

Now, swap the electrical connectors(meaning put the ice maker electrical connectors on the water dispenser side) for a test and see if water comes out of the water dispenser side when the ice maker calls for water for 7 seconds.

If so, here's the part you need:
Manufacturer part number 218658000


Jake

 

[Gryphon]

Jake,

Swapped the electrical connections (put the green ice maker connector to the water dispensing side yellow solenoid) and cycled the ice maker. No water came out of the water dispenser tube at the front door tube when the ice maker called for water for 7 seconds. With the yellow connector on the green ice maker solenoid, water did go into the ice maker when the front door chilled water button was pushed.

Any ideas what to do? Thanks for sticking with us on this.

Kathy and Gary