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FWT445GES2 Motor Problems

jtprouty

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
12
Frigidaire FWT445GES2 Washer Motor Problems

Hi All,

Our washer has been acting up and finally stopped working. It was originally not spinning properly (loads were still wet when it finished.) and now it doesn't rotate the drum at all. I put the control switch on "fast spin" this evening and it spun up for a few seconds and now doesn't spin at all. I'm thinking it's a control problem, not a motor problem since the motor actually ran until today. I checked the belt and it looks fine and has plenty of tension. There is a faint buzzing sound when the door is closed and I don't know if that's related.

Does anyone know what I should check for? What are the procedures for checking?

Thanks for any help. (Need to get this fixed to calm down the wife!) ;)

Jimmy
 
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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Aug 24, 2004
Messages
105,280
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

The control board on these models seem to be the main cause of the basket not turning, check for brown or burned spots on the control board, this link will also help:
http://www.applianceaid.com/frigidaire_frontload_washer2.html

The control board is in the lower right back side of the washer, as your facing it.

You can take the front access panel off to get the tech sheet on the left side inner cabinet.

Jake
 

jtprouty

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
12
Thanks Jake,

I took the board out (131 725 300) and looked at it but there's discoloration. I did do the check on the board as listed in the motor movement test page and it was good up to step 6. Resistance was 8.9 ohms which means the board is bad. Looks like I'll have to order one.

Thanks again for your help! It's a relief to be able to do the work myself.

Jimmy
 
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Jake

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Anytime Jimmy,

A new board should do it.:)

Jake
 

jtprouty

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Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
12
Help!

Just received and installed the new board - still doesn't work. :( Any thoughts on what I should try next?

Thanks again,

Jimmy
 

Jake

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Messages
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McMullen Valley, Arizona
Check the wire harness connection at the motor, where the plastic terminal block connects to the motor, a short in there or a bad connection, check the pins in those connectors to make sure nothing burned or shorted there causing the problem.

Does the tub move at all or just not in spin?
Jake
 

jtprouty

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
12
Hi Jake,

The problem was originally that the clothes weren't spinning enough to wring them out properly. It slolwy ended up not turning the drum at all.

Before I replaced the board I checked all of the wires at the board and plugged the connectors back in. I had it operating normally for a few minutes and then it stopped again. After that the drum wouldn't turn again. I fully expected replacing the board to do the trick.

I'll check the wiring at the motor tomorrow. I'm also going to test the new board and make sure they didn't send me a bad one. This one had been opened and I think it may be used.

Thanks again,

Jimmy
 

jtprouty

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
12
OK, checked out the new card, all's well. I tested the motor as outlined in the motor_test.jpg and other than the resistance being .5 ohms for setp 1, all else was good.

I did notice that my washer differs from both schematics. On the motor pin out, there is no wire in pin 2. On the pin out for the speed control, theres no wire in pin 3.

I was able to get the drum to move for a couple of seconds but now it's back to not moving again. Should I check the switches in the door or is there something else I can check?

Also, there's no tech sheet in under the front panel. Looks like someone removed it. :(

Funny, I can fix anything on a $17 million airplane but can get my washer to work! :eek:

Thanks again for your help.



Jimmy
 
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Mad Mac

Appliance Tech
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Jan 8, 2005
Messages
642
Location
Moorpark (via Motherwell, Scotland), California, U
jtprouty said:
There is a faint buzzing sound when the door is closed
AH....may well be a door lock issue, then. Suggest you have a read at this:

http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/showthread.php?t=255

Yours appears to have the older style door catch. I've seen these crack across the middle and cause exactly this problem. Unscrew the catch, it may well be in two pieces.
 
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jtprouty

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
12
Hi Jake & Mac,

I checked the plastic part of the lock and it's fine. I installed a new one (black) a couple years back. I did have trouble opening the door a week ago (really had to give it a yank.) Any suggestions where to look next? Is there a test for the latch? The door lock light comes on whenever I close the door and turn on the machine.

Thanks again,

Jimmy
 
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Mad Mac

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Jan 8, 2005
Messages
642
Location
Moorpark (via Motherwell, Scotland), California, U
The door lock light, for reasons known only to Friggidaire, only proves the dispenser drawer closed. The fact that you've had trouble getting the door open makes me think this is a problem. Compare your door catch to the pictures, something may have broken off.

Some models had a "test connector" which could be accessed by removing the bottom panel. This was a female 2-pin connector which you could put a wire in to bypass the door lock. The only copies of your wiring diagram I've found online are very poor, but it looks like your model doesn't have it. I'd take the panel off and have a look up there anyway.
 

jtprouty

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
12
Thanks Mac,


Took the catch off and compared it to the picture, perfect match. Took the locking mechanism off and looked at it, part number is 31269400 (date code is 35/97). It looks like the lock itself is OK. I tested the micro switch and it's good as well. The door locks like it's supposed to so it looks like the problem is somewhere else.

One thing of note is that I found a small spring under the washer but I'm not sure if it goes to the washer or fell out of my son's pocket in the laundry room. He's always picking stuff up and putting it in his pocket on the way home from school.

Thanks again,

Jimmy
 
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jtprouty

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
12
Yippee! Found the problem!

I was about to give up and go buy a new washer when I decided to take one last look at the problem. I pulled the catch off of the door and inserted it into the locking mechanism with the machine in "spin". I moved the catch around and sure enough, got the drum to move. Spent a few minutes trying to see what was going on and saw that the door had a lager gap on top than on the bottom when closed. I "persuaded" the hinge into the proper place, reattached the catch and the machine is now working fine! I'm going to reinstall the old motor controller to see if it will work just out of curiosity.

Thanks again for all of your help.

Jimmy
 

jtprouty

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Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
12
Well, wasn't so lucky. The motor is intermittent again. When I can get it to work it works for a few minutes and then stops. I was able to get it to work through the wash cycle and then it stopped when it got to the rinse/spin cycle. The next time I got it to work I put it in rinse/spin and it worked for a little bit and then stopped again. Also, I don't think the motor is reversing directions to spin the drum in reverse from time to time like it used to (I think).

Could the door latch switch be causing this? It locks properly and the water cycles never stop working properly. I would think the machine would simply shut down if the switch wasn't working properly but I'm not sure. Any thoughts? The water valves and drain pump have worked properly all along.

Anyone know about what it costs to get and estimate for a professional repair? Unless I can figure it out it looks like a $750 LG washer is in our future. :(

Thanks again,

Jimmy
 

ebaandit

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Joined
Oct 6, 2005
Messages
4
Location
milwaukee
I have a Frigidaire FWT445GES2 build date 02/98 that has had the no motor operation problem 3 times since May 2005. The first time, after going through all the test procedures and finding nothing wrong via multimeter I reassembled the washer. Plugging it back in I was very surprised when it worked as if there was no problem at all. Then in August the same problem again! Thinking that the only thing I "repaired" the first time was to move wires and connectors around, I found that (with the machine unplugged) removing the top cover and unplugging and then replugging the connectors on the timer got the motor to work again. Well now it's October and I called a local parts shop about a new timer and was quoted $106. I'm going to investigate those connections a little closer this time. It will only cost me time if it works again. (so glad I did not stack the dryer on the washer) I will post the results.
 

ebaandit

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Joined
Oct 6, 2005
Messages
4
Location
milwaukee
It worked for me again

ebaandit said:
I have a Frigidaire FWT445GES2 build date 02/98 that has had the no motor operation problem 3 times since May 2005. The first time, after going through all the test procedures and finding nothing wrong via multimeter I reassembled the washer. Plugging it back in I was very surprised when it worked as if there was no problem at all. Then in August the same problem again! Thinking that the only thing I "repaired" the first time was to move wires and connectors around, I found that (with the machine unplugged) removing the top cover and unplugging and then replugging the connectors on the timer got the motor to work again. Well now it's October and I called a local parts shop about a new timer and was quoted $106. I'm going to investigate those connections a little closer this time. It will only cost me time if it works again. (so glad I did not stack the dryer on the washer) I will post the results.

Fixed it again. This time I used an pick tool on the individual female spade terminals in each of the plastic connector blocks that plug into the timer. (washer unplugged) By prying on both sides of the terminals I'm hoping to improve the connection and the need to do this repair again in two or three months. I only worked on the large color coded plugs because they were the ones that unplugged with the least resistance, (loose). From front to back on the timer they are white, blue, brown, yellow, and red. All the other terminals were on so tight that I did not remove them for fear of breaking a connection inside the timer. Hope this helps.
 
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Jake

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Glad you got it fixed again ebaandit!:)

Thanks for the information!:D

Jake
 
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