FWT645RHS0 Frigidaire Front load washer wont final spin

billb1313

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2018
Messages
5
Location
FL
Model Number
FWT645RHS0
Brand
Frigidaire
Age
More than 10 years
TIA for anyone who can help with my washer saga, I now know more about washers than I thought I would. The story begins with my wife telling me the washer made a loud noise and the clothes were soaked at the end of the cycle. The door gasket looked twisted or out of position so as a DIY guy first thing I did was open it up and have a look. Fairly quickly I noticed the left side suspension spring was broken so I ordered a pair (if one broke the other may be on its way) dug out some lashing wire from my days as a lineman and fairly quickly had the inner tub lined up pretty close.

Though it probably wasn't the best idea, I decided to run a cycle to wring out the clothes but washer just went back and forth without high speed spin during the spin cycle. I read about possible causes which included the lock not engaging but I dismissed this at first because the lock was engaged. More research found this fixed the problem in many cases so I removed the gasket and the lock mechanism which was indeed broken from the inner tub shifting and pulling on the wiring.

Though it wasn't clear from my research, in order to help anyone reading this, there are two locking mechanisms that must both be engaged for the machine to enter the spin cycle. The secondary lock uses a wax motor (though I think wax solenoid is a better name). I ordered a replacement and figured I was done. I week later the springs and the lock mechanism arrived, I installed them but still no joy. More googling and I read about shocks and blocked drains so I removed the bottom panel and discovered that both shocks were broken at the ends. I removed them and they were providing almost no resistance so I am wondering if the shocks failed and caused the spring to suffer metal fatigue and they just broke when the inner tub shifted.

Anyway, while behind the washer hoping to get better access to removing the shocks, I looked up and noticed that the mechanical timer looked a bit wonky. I removed it and the plastic shielding fell away to reveal what looked like a music box player that was bent beyond repair. EUREKA!!! Of course the machine couldn't get to spin cycle, the switches that turn it on and off are broken. I ordered the shocks and the timer and waited another week. Well, the parts arrived today and went in without too much of a struggle though the plastic pins were a bear. I was all set to pat myself on the back for a job well done and $150 in parts saving me from a $700 washer.

Sadly, I still have no spin cycle and am flummoxed as to why. My bearings seem fine, there are no obstructions on the inlet or outlet of the pump, the washer drains though it does seem like it runs longer than it should. The drain pipe does seem to contain water but after the tub is drained I don't know how a pump is going to push water uphill out of a pipe. I don't think its the controller board in the back as it seems to be completely out of the way of the path of the tub and its outer box is undamaged. I do see a black tube running up the right side of the inner tub and it attaches to a round connection block the looks like it shifted a few degrees but otherwise shows no ill effects. I'm guessing this is a pressure switch. Can anyone describe how this is supposed to work and is there anyway to force a spin cycle. I would like to see the machine to it before I spend anymore on parts. Any other ideas would also be greatly appreciated.

tks
 

billb1313

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2018
Messages
5
Location
FL
Update:
pulled the pressure switch and confirmed that with no pressure the top and center (top-brown / middle-blk red stripe/ bottom - blue) are connected while the center and bottom are open and under pressure it's reversed top and center are open center and bottom are connected (ie 0 ohms). I sealed the hose connected to the pressure switch and under final spin cycle engaged and disengaged the switch with no observable effect. My thinking was that with tub full water would pressurize the air in the tube above the cup (center closed w/ bottom) indicating do not high speed spin as tub is full. After the water drains there is only atmospheric pressure and top and center are connected. This may be the case but doesn't seem to have anything to do with the spin cycle. Still hoping for help.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
102,132
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

Its possibly the speed control board.

Do this EXACTLY:
Program and start the washer in Drain/Spin Cycle
Disconnect both the six and ten pin plugs from the speed control board
Measure the voltage drop between Pin #6 of the six pin plug and pins #1-#2-#6-#9-#10 of the ten pin plug
If you have 120 VAC on any of those pins, replace the Speed Control board

Here's the speed control board for your model:
134149220 Speed Controller Assembly


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

billb1313

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2018
Messages
5
Location
FL
Jake,
1st thanks for the response. Just to be sure, are the pinouts on the plastic connectors as shown below?

in my world (I.T.) you can usually tell pin one on a molex type connector by looking at it with lock on top and pin 1 is bottom left as I tried to show below (V indicates the lock as you look down on it)

V
_ _ _ _ _
6 7 8 9 10
1 2 3 4 5

the 6 pin connector is locked on both ends but I assume the black (hot) wire is pin #6

am I correct in my assumptions?
 

billb1313

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2018
Messages
5
Location
FL
No volts on any of the pins though for my unit connector #9 has no wire going into the connector. I am assuming you wanted me to check voltage on the wire side of the connector and not the board/ctrl connector as it is not energized in any way once the 6 and 10 pin connectors are removed. I took apart the controller board and it is clean as a whistle and the fuse measures at 3.5ohm (essentially a short) so I don't think that is the issue. I removed the locking mechanism and got 1350ohm across the wax motor pins which I have read elsewhere is within spec. This brings up one question. The only un-keyed connector on the lock mechanism is the wax motor connector (pink and a white wire). As my understanding of how that works it seems to me that polarity should not matter (energized resistance heats wax and pushes plunger - again advocating for wax solenoid re-naming). Do I have that right and if not which way is it supposed to go.

tia
 

billb1313

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2018
Messages
5
Location
FL
More testing / questions.
I wanted to know if the wax motor was working so I removed the plastic striker from the door to trick the washer into thinking the door was closed. It had 2 prongs, the top one has kind of a diamond head but the bottom one is wider at the door side but is just flat and gets thinner toward end. My thought was the wax motor engages the lower prong during spin cycle and if not, no spin cycle but that does not seem to be the case. The top prong was locked but the bottom moved freely. I don't know if that means my brand new latching mechanism is bad or if I imagined the function incorrectly. It seems that the bottom prong is not designed to be "grabbed" or locked in any way. Please advise.

Also, I found an envelope that contained "Tech sheet" which has a section that says "Motor Movement (motor will not run)" not my exact problem but it had a section that said "Set the timer to heavy wash position of the regular wash cycle. Remove the ten pin plug from the speed control unit. Measure the voltages between pins 1,2,6, and 10 of the ten pin plug to pin 5 of the 6 pin plug on the harness. The voltage at pins 2,6, and 10 should read 120Vac and 0 Vac at pin 1. These were indeed my results

another section (6) said: Remove the 6 pin plug from the speed control unit. Measure the resistance between pins 1 and 2, 2, and 3, and 3 and 1 of the speed control unit. If the meter reads other than 3 Mohm +/- 10% replace the speed control board. Unfortunately my cheapo DMM only goes up to 2 Mohm (2000Kohm) but readings started at about 180Kohm and ran up till out of range so I know resistance of all suggested measurements are above 2Mohm but not open or infinite as indicated by the upward creep of the reading.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
102,132
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes you test the voltage within the wire side plastic connectors.

Also, I found an envelope that contained "Tech sheet" which has a section that says "Motor Movement (motor will not run)" not my exact problem but it had a section that said "Set the timer to heavy wash position of the regular wash cycle. Remove the ten pin plug from the speed control unit. Measure the voltages between pins 1,2,6, and 10 of the ten pin plug to pin 5 of the 6 pin plug on the harness. The voltage at pins 2,6, and 10 should read 120Vac and 0 Vac at pin 1. These were indeed my results
I posted the above information from another model close to yours, sorry about that. The tech. data sheet in your machine is the one you go by.

The top prong was locked but the bottom moved freely. I don't know if that means my brand new latching mechanism is bad or if I imagined the function incorrectly. It seems that the bottom prong is not designed to be "grabbed" or locked in any way. Please advise.
That's how its supposed to work, your new door switch is fine.


another section (6) said: Remove the 6 pin plug from the speed control unit. Measure the resistance between pins 1 and 2, 2, and 3, and 3 and 1 of the speed control unit. If the meter reads other than 3 Mohm +/- 10% replace the speed control board. Unfortunately my cheapo DMM only goes up to 2 Mohm (2000Kohm) but readings started at about 180Kohm and ran up till out of range so I know resistance of all suggested measurements are above 2Mohm but not open or infinite as indicated by the upward creep of the reading.
You can go to Lowes or Home Depot to get a better multimeter, they don't cost that much, usually they are between $16-$21. Because its very important to make sure you are the correct ohms readings per your tech. data sheet.

Also check the door strike too.

You can compare your door strike to the new one below, if one of the two ends are broken, that would also cause this issue too.

Here's the door strike for your model:
Door Strike 131763310


Let us know how it goes.

Jake
 
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