GBD309PVB02 Whirlpool Double Oven Cools After Reaching Temp

[Goldstripe]

Model Number

GBD309PVB02

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

More than 10 years

I have a double wall oven model GBD309PVB02 from Whirpool. After reaching the preset temperature, the upper oven begins to cool down and will not kick the element back on to heat up again, it will cool all the way to nothing if I let it. If I cancel / shut either off and restart, it will heat back up to the preset temp before cooling down again. I did pull the temp sensor out of the upper oven this morning to check resistance at room temperature and it was 1089 ohms which seems in line. The thermostat is likely in the back which would require removing this thing from the cabinet and so I just wanted to throw this out to the experts before I do that. I have confirmed the same behavior on standard bake and convection bake; top oven has convection. anything else i should be checking before pulling it out?

 

[Dan O.]

There's a cooling fan in the unit. Make sure it's functioning.

LINK > GBD309PVB02 Cooling Fan

The thermostat is likely in the back which would require removing this thing from the cabinet

The one for the upper oven could be in the control area ... or on the back. Here is a tip from Rick that might help with the latter:



I kinda doubt the over-heat thermostat is the cause. It seems to be working, cutting the oven out. I'd suggest seeing if it is overheating and why.

JMO

Dan O.

 

[Goldstripe]

Thank you Dan-O! I will start there once I figure out where they are. Hopefully in the front but either way, gotta get it fixed.

 

[Goldstripe]

Just a quick update. I still haven't pulled the oven out just yet but I did do some vacuuming to the front vents and really got in there with a bottle brush and shop vac. It didn't change anything but needed to be done regardless. I did want to mention that it is both the upper and lower that are "cooling off" after reaching their preset temps. I thought the bottom oven was maintaining temp but it does not.

 

[Goldstripe]

Another update. Today I got up the gumption to pull the double ovens out of the cabinet. I was suspecting maybe a cooling fan was the issue but I can see both of them running now with the unit out. I am going to clean as thoroughly as possible and test again with the unit out of the cabinet. I can see both of the thermostats from the back as well but it would be odd that both are bad at the same time. Other than cleaning, any other suggestions you can think of?

 

[Dan O.]

I did want to mention that it is both the upper and lower that are "cooling off" after reaching their preset temps.

Someone will need to trace the power to see what stops it. If they both stop at the same time it will likely be something in common with both. When the condition is present, check for proper power getting to the appliance and the main terminal block for intermittent connections.

Dan O.

 

[Goldstripe]

Thanks Dan O, not exactly sure how to check for that but it may become evident when I start pulling the top cover off. Another thing I saw online was that it could be the control board but I'd want to test somehow before I spent that kind of money.

 

[Dan O.]

Another thing I saw online was that it could be the control board

It could be but is less likely if both ovens cease functioning at the same time. You haven't yet clarified that.

.

 

[Goldstripe]

They do both cool off once they hit their preheat temp. I haven't measured to see if they drop at the exact same time or not however I can reset (turn off then on again) one of them and it will heat up as the other is cooling off (until I cancel and turn back on). If I turn both on at the same time to 425, they do both cool off. I checked continuity on the upper thermal fuse and that was ok but the fuse was extremely dirty/greasy. Going to check/clean the lower but I suppose if those were blown, it would not heat at all.

 

[Goldstripe]

Here's a look from the top oven after vacuuming but it wasn't terrible. The upper cooling fan is filthy so i'm going to clean that now.

 

[Dan O.]

I meant if they both became inoperative at the same time. If one CAN be used when the other in operative, that rules out the main power supply. That main terminal block doesn't show any visible problems as near as I can see.

I can reset (turn off then on again) one of them and it will heat up as the other is cooling off (until I cancel and turn back on).

If disconnecting then reconnecting power allows a 'reset', that pretty much only occurs with an electronic control malfunction. Something on the electronic control may be overheating and causing the problem. Any kind of temperature safety cut off would not reset like that, only by a temperature change.

Unfortunately the electronic control (# 8303018) is discontinued and NLA. If needed you might need to find a used one or have your original control rebuilt.

LINK > 8303018 Electronic Control Rebuild Services

I don't know how you'd positively determine its failure.


Dan O.

 

[Goldstripe]

Thanks for all your help Dan O, the power distribution looks good in person too. One thing I just did is blew out the vent in the roof of the oven; it was packed with crap and it blew out chunks through the skinny vent on the front of the oven. That didn't see to change anything. I did write down the temps that i can hear clicks occur. With a preset of 425:
At 465 there is a beep indicating it has reached the preset temp and the temp climbs to 477 before starting to fall
411 degrees - an audible click can be heard
406 degrees - same as 411 "click"
405 degrees - same click
397 degrees - click
395 degrees - click and then i gave up and turned it off.

I would associate that sound with the oven trying to kick the element back on but that's just a hunch. Do you think it's worth having a pro come out to troubleshoot or are they just going to throw the parts cannon at it? Guess it depends on the tech.

 

[Dan O.]

I would associate that sound with the oven trying to kick the element back on

That sounds reasonable. 411 would be close to the temperature to come back on when set at 425.

same as 411 "click"

Someone could try to isolate which relay it's coming from. I might even try giving it a tap when 'stuck' to see if it jarred it into action.

Working on a live appliance can be dangerous! If you're unfamiliar with safety precautions it should not be attempted.

Do you think it's worth having a pro come out to troubleshoot or are they just going to throw the parts cannon at it?

They might be able to determine or suggest the likely problem. If it was indeed the control, there's nothing they could do about it anyway. It's up to you.


Dan O.