FIXED GD5DHAXVA00 Whirlpool I/M Side X Side, NO blinking LED lights, Replaced the PC Boards, nothing

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kstevusa

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2019
Messages
7
Location
Lower Middle Tn.
Model Number
GD5DHAXV
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
6-10 years
Research on Google led me here, Trying for 2 weeks to determine why I have NO Blinking LED's. The I/M stopped and after reading various threads from different sources, seemed the Emitter and Receiver boards were problem. Fridge unplugged during these operations. Due to smaller cost, replaced them, after touching ground to discharge static, w/o too much testing.

Still do not have much info on how to pin test the voltage at the Emitter board if all is working. STILL NO Blinking lights. Cked the position of the ejector fingers and discovered they were in position to touch ice cubes, tray had ice in it. Temp was 0 and lights, fan, etc. are running (inside frig.). This indicated there was water delivered (solenoids ok) and the I/M was entering or had entered the Harvest mode. Does this cycle portion delete the Blinking Lights during this process?

Since the I/M seemed dead, but worked up to the harvest mode, figured the I/M module was toast. Decided to just pony up and purchase the complete I/M unit. When the new I/M arrived. I did the install after unplugging and resetting the unit. Once the 2 boards and the I/M unit was replaced and reset on frig, waited 24 hours and still NO Blinking Lights.

I was not successful with location info or diagrams of how connector & pins on LED or I/M were to read with my DVOM. Cked the old module and no visible sings of burnt strips or nothing visible on the 2 LED boards. All other functions operate properly along with in-door water & ice when are activated. I have not moved frig from wall since last years cleaning of condenser compartment. Scant info on how to troubleshoot the Master I/M Control Board (rear) or what I overlooked.

Any thoughts on what should be the next diagnostic to run? Lost as a GOOSE :)
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
103,327
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

So your not getting any light action at all from the Ice Maker optics LED?

Lets test the optics, Follow these steps, and report back:

Step#1: Open the freezer and view the status LED

(STATUS LED)

2 BLINKS FOLLOWED BY 1 SEC. DELAY(REPEATED)

POSSIBLE CAUSES: The flapper door on the emitter is blocking the beam or the optics are faulty.


Step#2: Press the emitter flapper to unblock the optics beam

(STATUS LED)

2 BLINKS FOLLOWED BY 1 SEC. DELAY(REPEATED)

POSSIBLE CAUSES: The optics are faulty. Replace the emitter and receiver boards.

If the LED is ON steady: The optics are working properly.

Here are the boards you can order IF needed, they come together in 1 kit with instructions and video:
W10757851 Cntrl-Elec


If you get no lights at all, then check wires as the come up into the freezer door, remove the bottom kickplate grille and you will see the wire harness going into the door.

Lots of members have found frayed and broken wires causing the ice maker/and or auger motor to be dead. Remove the black wire harness loom too, broken wires can be underneath it.

Another member was having a similar problem here: FIXED: GSF26C4EXY02 Whirlpool Gold Ice Maker Problem Look at his post #6 he found frayed and broken wires underneath the freezer door.

Here's another one with the same thing about the frayed and broken wires: FIXED: 106.51173310 Kenmore elite ice maker not working - no led light

Here's another: FIXED: Whirlpool WSF26C2EXF01 Door Icemaker Not Working

Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

kstevusa

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2019
Messages
7
Location
Lower Middle Tn.
Thanks for reply. First 2 steps N/A due to no Blinking lights or any LED. Went to the mentioned threads and have read most of them prior. Removed the kick plate and looked. 2 sets of wires and water line coming from door. The 2 sets of wire are enclosed in a black sheathings.

I cut the one with 2 wires and examined it closely from the door entry point to about 5" down,appeared OK. Then I cut the sheathing holding the 4? wires and looked closely for about 5" from the door entry point and all were good. Exerted slight pressure down on each wire and none showed any stretch or cuts.

There are still no light on the emitter board (Cked with my camera on cellphone) Is there a procedure to verify a valid circuit connection from the door Water-I/M-display up to the emitter board/Receiver or the I/M. Non related info??

Had difficulty removing Ice Bin in door due to frozen ice and bumped the bin and button with heel of hand a bit harder than slightly :).

Have not tried any voltage tests but understand there are a few. Unless the LED light blinks or stays solid, appears no progress made. The Goose still wanders?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
103,327
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Did you locate your tech. data sheet? Its either behind the bottom kickplate grille or underneath the refrigerator door hinge cover.

I'll see if our tech. bigbuck has it for your model.

Jake
 

kstevusa

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2019
Messages
7
Location
Lower Middle Tn.
Yes, on the 3 sets of Tech Sheets. They are TINY Print and difficult to follow the wiring diagram. The I/M sheet gives the probe locations and reading so I can try those. Was hoping it was a visible wire break, but none. The lack of any operation or the stall in the harvest position of the fingers confuses me. Perhaps the I/M portion of the Master Control Logic board failed? Once I perform the voltage tests at the I/M Module and I/R Receiver connector, I'll post results. Thanks again.
 

kstevusa

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2019
Messages
7
Location
Lower Middle Tn.
Good News Hopefully! Began to prepare for test procedure on the Receiver board wiring and removed the Receiver. It was unplugged and since this was last thing I did prior to install of the New I/m; never went back to see if it was locked into the harness. I failed to lock it in due to the short & stiff harness.

All the other checks were negated by this error. The door wiring,and I/M could have been OK but due to age, it was worth the additional money. once I made the secure connection and reset the I/M, the lights began to blink and it cycle and dumped a bit of ice since I put a small amount in manually.

My error in not locking the harness to the receiver board appears to be the cause of this perplexing problem. The fill cup has a water spray and some ice on it. Is there a plastic tube w/i the black spout that delivers water from the water valve? Perhaps I have caused it to recede back into cabinet and this is causing the cup to malign with the black spout. The I/M is snapped into place on its guide and not movable.

When this is overcome, I hope to be finished. "The Goose is ready to Roost"
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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McMullen Valley, Arizona
Excellent, good find.:)

The black rubber fill tube should be in the fill cup, it comes down from the ceiling.

I would make sure your black rubber fill tube that puts water in it from the freezer ceiling is not clogged with ice, sometimes you can't see the ice blockage up in there, use a turkey baster and shoot hot water in there, then get something to run up in that fill tube, I use a evaporator cooler spider snake: http://www.azpartsmaster.com/Products/Cooler-Spider-Snake__CLR4690.aspx

They are used basically in Arizona to clean out the water pump tubes that run to the cooler pads.

I don't know if they would sell them in your area, but if you go to your local hardware store, they should have something similar to run up your black rubber fill tube.

Remove the ice maker first to get better access into that black rubber fill tube.

Jake
 

kstevusa

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2019
Messages
7
Location
Lower Middle Tn.
Thanks Jake for your info and help. It is difficult to admit "I Screwed up" but I did. The PC boards were 1st parts I replaced and failed to connect the Receiver board securely to the harness. This oversight doomed the remainder of the repair. Originally there was no light on the receiver side, so apparently the LED Beam was defective. That was verified with the Cell Phone Camera.

Once the new boards were installed(?), that was not checked again. Since no light, the I/M unit was replaced with same result. Not until the voltage test were begun, was the ERROR discovered. Due to shortness plus COLD & STIFF wire harness, the difficulty of installing the new receiver board to harness seemed to have snapped into place,but it did not. When the unit was reattached to cabinet, it popped loose. Once, this was corrected and I/M reset, the entire I/M began to function. The I/M cycled and noticed the water spray with some ice on the plastic panel.

After examination, the water fill reservoir was suspect due to location of ice & water. Removed the I/M and discovered the fill reservoir on the replacement I/M was smaller & shorter than the OEM . The old OEM unit was separated from the module housing including the ejector fingers to free the old cup. It was Bigger front to rear and taller. The replacement I/M was not FSP, but a SXXco. Once the correct reservoir was installed on the replacement I/M, there was no over spray.
ALL IS WELL. For this model frig, the wires to test or (use wire connection test) the Receiver side are Blue/Yellow & Black/White in the connector.

The Emitter can be cked with Camera on Cell Phone. Once the 2 Receiver pins are connected, the I/M should function if the I/M is not defective and other parameters are OK. Please review my statements and correct if in error. Thanks again. I'M Roosted :)
 

Jake

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Messages
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McMullen Valley, Arizona
Sounds good, but I'm not understanding what you mean by the water fill reservoir. Do you mean the ice maker cube mold TRAY where the water fills into?

Its always best to use OEM parts.:)

Here's the OEM ice maker for your model(Video Included in part link):
2198597 Complete Icemaker Assembly (8 Cube)


Jake
 

kstevusa

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2019
Messages
7
Location
Lower Middle Tn.
The water fill reservoir(cup) is the plastic type funnel on the opposite end of the ice mould assembly. Opposite end from the module and Thermostat. Water runs from the fill tube located in the cabinet into the reservoir (cup) once the fill cycle is initiated. From the cup, it flows into the ice mould. Hope my terminology is not too confusing. The reservoir has a opening that allow the water to flow into the cup. Have a great day. OEM is a good choice.
 

Jake

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Messages
103,327
Location
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Ok, you mean fill cup, we techs don't call that a fill reservoir, as you have a water reservoir in your refrigerator section.:)

Thanks for clarifying that.:)

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Glad to help.:)

Closing thread now.:)

Jake
 
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