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FIXED GDF570SSJ0SS GE Dishwasher - won’t start

Phil123

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2022
Messages
2
Location
Oregon
Model Number
GDF570SSJ0SS
Brand
GE
Age
1-5 years
Hi,
Like many others, when I try to start the dishwasher I get three beeps and a blinking start light. I’ve tried cycling the power, which fixed it once before, but no luck this time. Diagnostic mode (5 seconds of start & select buttons) causes all lights to blink, which means the door registers as open. The control board has NO led on (steady or blinking), just nothing. I tried checking voltage to the board and am not getting a reading. The power supply to the board should be a two prong plug, correct? It’s not in exactly the same spot as some of the illustrations I’ve seen here. Also, the plug has small prongs, and I’m probing the female side (ie, the plug, not the board) so I’m not sure I’m actually getting contact. Photos attached. Any tips?
Thanks,
Phil
 

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PS: I just confirmed that the white three prong plug under the board (outside of the metal enclosure) is receiving 120v.
 
PS: I just confirmed that the white three prong plug under the board (outside of the metal enclosure) is receiving 120v.
Good Phil, so that means the machine control board is getting the proper 120 volts to it, and when the STATUS LED is STEADY OFF that indicates the machine control board is the culprit.

You will need to replace the machine control board underneath the dishwasher to fix your current problem.:)

Here's the machine control board for your model you can order: WD21X24901

Let us know how it goes.

Jake
 
I have no control board LED either…. Also the on running the diagnostics the machine says the door is open when closed. All door LEDS blink With door closed. Is this also indicative of a control board issue?

HI Jake - we chatted a few weeks ago but the machine came to life after checking the status s light…musta got lucky that day
 
Sorry I reread the previous posts and the answer is yes. Thank you for being here to help us!
 
@Hdave Lets go back to your first thread here:

Jake
 
Yeah I the error of my posting…

Got the part installed and she up and running again! Many thanks!
 
well, that lasted 10 days…. Today hit the start button and no lights no reaction. flipped the breaker for a reset and back in business. But why does this keep happening?
 
I did locate a service bulletin that may pertain to your model, per the serial number of your dishwasher, what is the serial number of your dishwasher?

If your dishwasher serial number is within range of the service bulletin, that says--->Replace the Heating Element and reset the CSM.
Important Note: All components must be thoroughly dry when installing the new element, including the tub area around the element (inside and outside).

I'm attaching that bulletin below.

CSM (Current Sense Module) Causes No Operation or Dead Condition Dishwasher--->A heating element or random non dishwasher faults may cause the CSM to trip and render a dishwasher in a no operation or dead state.

To verify that---->disconnect power to the dishwasher and remove both heating element wires terminal connectors from the heating element, then restore power to the dishwasher, then run a cycle and see if it runs through fine. Make sure those heating element wires are not touching anything, its best to use black electrical tape to tape the metal terminal ends up of those heating element wires just to ensure they don't touch anything metal underneath the dishwasher.

Here's the heating element for your model:
Heating Element WD05X30818


Jake
 

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Thank you, the serial we have starts with GG. I can’t really tell if it meets the criteria…what we saw yesterday in its appearance being dead does.

When it was “dead” I tried to enter the service mode by pushing the two buttons at the same time and nothing happened. Before replacing the control board it acted as expected when doing this process. Maybe that info will help?
 
HG – FH (May 2016 – March 2017)

I would need the complete serial number to know for sure.

At any rate you can still try this:
To verify that---->disconnect power to the dishwasher and remove both heating element wires terminal connectors from the heating element, then restore power to the dishwasher, then run a cycle and see if it runs through fine. Make sure those heating element wires are not touching anything, its best to use black electrical tape to tape the metal terminal ends up of those heating element wires just to ensure they don't touch anything metal underneath the dishwasher.
 
Thanks! Your dishwasher was made April of 2016, so its NOT in range of that service bulletin.

Did you buy the machine control board from AppliancePartsPros or RepairClinic ? They Always has a 365 day warranty on ALL parts.

--->Here's the machine control board for your model(underneath the dishwasher): WD21X24901 Machine Control

Also check for any moisture underneath the dishwasher, that will make the CSM on the machine control board trip as well.
 
Hmmm good it’s not part of the CSM…. The power company has been Done a ton of work around here for weeks. Some minor power blips here and there/. Could that be the cause?
 
Yes, that's exactly what I'm thinking too.
 
it died again, not lights on the front. flipped the breaker 3 different times, off for a minute then back on and its still dead with no lights and wont respond to holding the start button and select button.
 
Ok, You will need a multimeter to check for 13.5 Volts DC to the UI Board.

The UI operational voltage is output from the main control board on connector J722 pin 2 black/green to pin 5 yellow/blue. If 13.5 Volts DC is found here, then the UI Board is the problem.

Here's the UI(user interface) Board for your model:

When you click the UI Board part link you will see a video of how to replace it.

"NOTE--->When replacing UI control boards, the new UI Board MUST be configured as per the instructions included with the replacement. If the personality is not set by using the 4 jumpers, the buttons, LED’s or cycles will not function properly".

Snapshot_2 (1).jpg


Connector J722 is located on the metal casing side of the main control board.

J722.jpeg


It's the one on the left above the ethernet port.:)

Let us know how it goes.
 
And she died again, BUT I think I found the source of the issue.

The white power supply connection was terrible, one of the wires was coiled up almost completely on the insulation of the other. LIke instead of twisting the cap on it was shoved on. This does explain many of the intermittent issues And probably why the original control board was shot. Hope that’s the last time I need to lay on the floor and take the front apart.

Thanks to this forum!
 
Excellent, good find.(y)

Thanks for the update!

Hope that’s the last time I need to lay on the floor and take the front apart.
LOL, Yes I know what you mean.:) Fingers crossed. 🤞
 

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