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GDF620HMJ2ES GE Dishwasher not draining

Leondreed

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2019
Messages
18
Location
Painted post ny
Model Number
GDF620HMJ2ES
Brand
GE
Age
1-5 years
GE GDF620HMJ2ES not draining. Noticed some water in garage. it is coming from under dishwasher. I cleaned filter, pulled unit out, noticed it had popped breaker. I turned breaker back on, plugged in, making a sound but not draining.
pump?
clogged?

im disconnecting water line and removing dishwasher to remove drain line. I know removing drain line will dump more water than I want.

any help appreciated !

Leon
 

Leondreed

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Dec 8, 2019
Messages
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Location
Painted post ny
Kinda update...I removed dishwasher to a safe place. I removed drain hose and verified it is not clogged. I blew into it one way (exiting washer) and found no blockages. I removed the pump. Reconnected drain line, blew into pump and found no blockages. Could this be the flood switch? The dishwasher did not complete its cycle and the breaker was popped.
 

Leondreed

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Dec 8, 2019
Messages
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Location
Painted post ny
The flood switch assembly. Removed, checked continuity between pins 3&5 and got 11k (good).

checked between pins 1&7 (white w/red tracer and orange w/gray tracer) and got no continuity. I’ve read this means flood switch is bad.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
114,577
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
checked between pins 1&7 (white w/red tracer and orange w/gray tracer) and got no continuity. I’ve read this means flood switch is bad.
Per your service manual I don't see anywhere it says that.
'
Can you show me where it says that, here's your service manual: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1XTOXM0wA0UJEuucW0deIni17sMPtDGtD
Now the drain diagnostics starts on page 63, do that flowchart and let us know what you find.

Is the drain pump running but no water is coming out?

Here's the drain pump for your model:


There is a video in the part link that shows you how to remove and replace it.

Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

Leondreed

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Messages
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Location
Painted post ny
Jake,

took me time to find this:

i Never suspected an issue until I saw the water in basement. I first suspected a bad drain/connection. I then realized breaker had popped. The drain filter is cleaned often and was quite dirty this time. the flood switch thermistor has 4 wires to it...center two do ohm out to 11k at room temp, but outer 2 show no resistance. after resetting breaker, I plugged washer in, pump made sound but nothing was coming out.

i did remove pump and visually inspected and found no blockage. The impeller blades do move freely.


i will try to do drain diagnosis like you mentioned
 
Last edited:

Leondreed

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Dec 8, 2019
Messages
18
Location
Painted post ny
Jake, based on the flowchart on page 63, pump is clogged (i couldn’t find any blockages-I did not take it apart other than off the DW), OR pump is bad. It does make a sound like it is pumping but nothing is coming out of drain. I’ve read pumps rarely go and the flood switch is common to go.
I cant find the tech who pointed out “test for continuity” on flood switch. the link I provided is from appliancepartpros. Tech was diagnosing the same flood switch. I have a new one coming tomorrow, if new one has continuity I will try. If it doesn’t, I guess I’ll assume pump is bad and purchase a new one and return flood switch.

thank you manual! I hate hate hate these new Dw. Shoulda kept my old model (painted it to match what my wife wanted). 16 years, only issue was the DW rack! Sold on craigslist.
 

Leondreed

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Messages
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Jake, tonight I reassembled DW, connected DVM to pump, put 1/2 gallon of water in unit, plugged in. Motor kicked on and as I dropped down to one knee to check DVM (which was ~50 v AC I think), I noticed a leak in the back. It is the left side of the heating element! That is what caused the breaker to pop (It is a gfci). Does this make sense? Thanks. I may keep new flood switch just in case.

thank you

Leon
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Oh boy, that explains it.

You will need a new heating element and a new control board, that leak shorted out the control board.

--->Here's the control board for your model you can order: WD21X24900

Here's the heating element for your model:
Heating Element WD05X24776


Jake
 

Jake

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Because you should be getting 120 volts to the drain pump and your only getting 50 volts.

GE control 2 (1).jpg


D-GE control board status led.jpg
 

Leondreed

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Thanks Jake

I was thinking pump had water dripping in it, causing gfci to trip. I guess it should have pumped ANY amount of water out (I may not have had “pump out activated”). Honestly I was more concerned where water was dripping out bottom than dvm. ill pull board out today and see if it has any lights on it. Could board still be bad if there are lights?
 

Jake

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The control board sends 120 volts to the drain pump when its time to drain.:)

Jake
 

Leondreed

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Jake, the heating element part is out of stock everywhere. Any idea where to get just the oring/gasket? Is this because of covid all venders are out? thank you
 

Jake

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Any idea where to get just the oring/gasket?
Any hardware store should have it. Take your old heating element with you to the hardware store.

Is this because of covid all venders are out?
I don't know.

Jake
 

Leondreed

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my board is fine, I hooked up and pump registered 120VAC . This is all because the gaskets went bad and caused breaker to pop. I ohm ed out the heater and it was 16ohms...so that is good too.
my o rings on heater are not broken. They just won’t stay put when I tighten up the bottom nuts. Maybe I’m tightening too much?

on a new heater, are the o rings stuck to the heater or are they loose?
 

Jake

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A couple other folks have mentioned this same issue, and it boggles my mind how this can happen.

Look here:

Jake
 
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