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FIXED GDT580SGF0WW GE dishwasher not heating, tried several things, What's next?

hairi_c

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2016
Messages
6
Location
California
Model Number
GDT580SGF0WW
Brand
GE
Age
1-5 years
I've had this dishwasher for about 2.5 years and I've had multiple problems with it. Now it is not heating.

Here's what the symptoms are:
The dishwasher will cycle entirely through and the dishes come out slightly cleaned but still dirty. The butter, oily, waxy things are still on the dishes. If I open it mid cycle the water is cold (water from the tap is hot). If I touch the element, it is cold. The dishwasher gives no error codes.

Here's what I've tried:
1. Heating Element: I installed the heating element and ran the dishwasher. The problem remained. I checked the old element for continuity and it's fine.
2. Control board: After doing some reading on the internet and rediscovering the wiring diagram, I found out how to put the dishwasher into error mode. It is supposed to flash to let you know what error codes there are. There were none. In this mode you can enter the service mode to tell the dishwasher to run specific components to test if they're working. I tried the fan, works right away, but nothing with the element. I continued reading to discover that you can pull the control board out to reveal an LED that blinks to tell you its status. So I looked at the LED and it was blinking very quickly. My paper says that means to replace the board (UGH $135). To be sure, I turned the breaker on and off. The LED changed to being steady on which also means replace the board. So I ordered a control board and installed it. The problem remained. Now the LED blinks on its happiest setting, but still no heat.
3. Checking Continuity: I put my multi-meter into the pins on the board for the heating loop and nothing came back wrong. I think it squealed and read 16?

So what can I try next to figure out why it's not heating? Are there other components that would disable the heating?
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
107,969
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Hi,

Water is cold through mid-cycle?

That tells someone may have screwed up when they installed this dishwasher, where they hooked the cold water instead of hot water line to the dishwasher. I've seen this happen twice in my 30 years as a tech.:)

Do this, run the hot water at the sink till its super hot, then start a new cycle on the dishwasher, after it fills, open the door and feel the water to see if its cold as it is in mid-cycle, if so, thats the probem.

Jake
 

hairi_c

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2016
Messages
6
Location
California
The water at the tap is hot. The water line into the dishwasher comes directly from the hot water line under the sink. The dishwasher used to have hot washes for two years so it's definitely not a switched water line. What else can I try?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Joined
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Messages
107,969
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok,

See where it says TCO on your wiring diagram for the heating element? TCO=Thermal Cut Off

That's likely the culprit, but the only problem I don't see any separate TCO devices on your parts diagram, so it could be integrated into your control board, or the TCO could be integrated into your wiring harness that goes to the heating element.

You mentioned you already replaced the control board? Is this the OEM one you replaced below?

GE WD21X22276 Kit Main Board


Jake
 

hairi_c

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2016
Messages
6
Location
California
Yes, that's the board that I replaced my old board with.
The TCO is in the harness.
See the harness here: GE Dishwasher Drain Pump WD49X23782
I put my multi-meter into the pins belonging to the circuit with the heating element and it reads 16 ohms.
I see on the wiring diagram that there are two more temperature related things. One is the the flood switch circuit and one is in the turbidity sensor circuit. How do I check those?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
107,969
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McMullen Valley, Arizona
I put my multi-meter into the pins belonging to the circuit with the heating element and it reads 16 ohms.
It should read 0 ohms.

So that's likely the culprit, you can by-pass that TCO in the wire harness and see if your heating element comes on.

If it does, then you'll need to replace that wire harness with that TCO in it.

Those other 2 TCO's are just for the flood switch circuit and turbidity sensor circuit. Those should not effect the heating element.

Turn the breaker off to your dishwasher before by-passing that heating element TCO.

Jake
 

hairi_c

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2016
Messages
6
Location
California
Are there any safeties that, once tripped, tell the dishwasher to not use the element? We replaced the turbidity sensor because we thought it was giving a faulty reading but we were mistaken.
I can test the TCO, but it's not worth the money to replace the harness. GE does not offer just the TCO and harness is only sold with a motor at the price of $150.
 

hairi_c

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2016
Messages
6
Location
California
Whoa! It is working!

Just before I ran a wash to see if the turbidity sensor happened to fix it, I took the time to take out the flood switch and clean it. It was full of gunk from not melting things in the water when the heating element was not heating the water before.

I was wondering if the flood switch was stuck and limiting the water level so that it was not reaching the element. So I cleaned it and put it back. Either way it is heating again! Yay!

Maybe it was a combination of the control board and the gunky flood switch, or the control board and the turbidity sensor?

Thanks for you help!
 

Jake

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Messages
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McMullen Valley, Arizona

jweiss25

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Jan 29, 2020
Messages
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Location
Vancouver, WA
I know it’s is an old thread, but maybe somebody is here looking for answers.

I had the same problem with the element not working. I replaced the heating element and flood control switch- did not fix the issue.

I finally found out that my TCO was tripped. I wish I had checked this before replacing the aforementioned parts.

The TCO is a small sensor that sits on the bottom of the washer at the very back. It’s part of the wiring harness that connects the control board to the heating element. You’ll need to remove the dishwasher and turn it over to get access to the TCO.

Slide the TCO switch out and on the bottom is a “reset” button. By pushing the reset button, it basically pushes the bi-metal contact so it makes contact again.

If you want to test the TCO, cut it off the wiring harness and check for continuity. If you don’t have continuity, the element won’t get power (or heat). Next, try to reset the TCO by pushing the bottom button and recheck continuity. If you now have continuity, the TCO is functional, so reinstall it with wire nuts and tape.

To fully test the TCO, put the metal part against a heating element; it should trip at about or before 220°F.

Hope this helps somebody.
 

Jake

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Hi Jake,
I have this model number and am still trying to find the TCO I took off the thermostat, but not sure where the TCO is to reset. Any help would be appreciated. I’ve tested my heating element at 16 ohms and replaced the flood switch. The dishwasher runs fine, but doesn’t get hot
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
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Messages
107,969
Location
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Do you have the exact same model number GDT580SGF0WW?

It's on the left side with the purple wires going to it, coming out of the wash motor.

If it's bad it only comes with the wash motor kit for this model:
WD49X23782 P2B Wash Pump Kit


Jake
 
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