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GDT635HSJ2SS GE Dishwasher - Similar to others - no power to control panel. Am I ready to buy a UI?

AllenM

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2020
Messages
14
Location
Duncan SC
Model Number
GDT635HSJ2SS
Brand
GE
Age
1-5 years
Some great commenters here. Hopefully y'all can help.

Similar issue as others - no power to control panel on GE GDT635HSJ2SS. About 4 years old. Use it ~10 times a year.

1. Junction box - terminations all tight, no burns or signs of arcing on the wire nuts.
2. Main PCB - solid green light. Took it out anyway, blew air on it and all the terminations. Still solid green and still no power to control panel.
3. Door latch alignment appears good, vertically and horizontally. Not sure how to tell if latch switch is bad.
4. Tried press/hold Select Cycle and Start for 5 secs - nothing.
5. Would you guess that replacing the UI is extremely likely to solve the problem?
6. Anything else to try diagnostically before I go to that trouble?
7. 53 homes in our community. All had GE d/w's on house purchase. Homes are 1-5 years old. At least 10 have swapped out their GE d/w. I'd hate to buy a UI, fix the d/w, just to have it go belly up within a year or two anyway.
 

Jake

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Hi Allen, You will need a multimeter to verify this first.

STATUS LED Steady ON: UI personality not set, communications lost between UI(User Interface) and MC(Machine Control Board).

Here's the UI(user interface) Board for your model you can order: WD21X23462 Kit Svc Ui Top Logic

To verify that--->The UI operational voltage is output from the main control board on connector J722 pin 2 black/green to pin 5 yellow/blue. If 13.5 Volts DC is found here, then replace the UI Board.

Snapshot_2 (1).jpg


That J722 connector is on the other side of the control board, look here:

J722.jpeg


It's the one on the left above the ethernet port.:)

Let us know how it goes.

Jake
 

AllenM

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Nov 15, 2020
Messages
14
Location
Duncan SC
Hi Jake.

I sure do appreciate your help.

I'm reasonably handy, but never learned much about electricity (probably b/c my mechanical engineer father warned me about the dangers but never taught me much about it). Went out and got a multimeter kit this morning (MM is Klein MM300). What I measure is 14.14V.

I'm not sure what I did was correct. So to make sure -- I placed one probe on the pin 2nd from the left (pins being set in the off-white colored connector housing in the top left of your pic), and the other probe on the pin on the far right of that row of 5 pins. Multimeter was set on 20V DC.

Allen
 

Jake

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Perfect Allen, 14.14 Volts DC is good. So that means you will need to order and replace the UI Board I posted the link to above in post #2.

It's in-stock here:

Here's the service manual instructions for your exact model

You will need to remove the whole door, then separate the door, then remove the front control console, to replace the UI Board.

Here's the service manual for your model: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1XTOXM0wA0UJEuucW0deIni17sMPtDGtD

Page 26 Door Removal
Page 28 Separate Door
Page 29 Front Control Console Removal
Page 30 UI Removal

NOTE--->When replacing UI control boards, the new UI Board MUST be configured as per the instructions included with the replacement. If the personality is not set by using the 4 jumpers, the buttons, LED’s or cycles will not function properly.

Jake
 

AllenM

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2020
Messages
14
Location
Duncan SC
Perfect Allen, 14.14 Volts DC is good. So that means you will need to order and replace the UI Board I posted the link to above in post #2.

It's in-stock here:

Here's the service manual instructions for your exact model

You will need to remove the whole door, then separate the door, then remove the front control console, to replace the UI Board.

Here's the service manual for your model: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1XTOXM0wA0UJEuucW0deIni17sMPtDGtD

Page 26 Door Removal
Page 28 Separate Door
Page 29 Front Control Console Removal
Page 30 UI Removal

NOTE--->When replacing UI control boards, the new UI Board MUST be configured as per the instructions included with the replacement. If the personality is not set by using the 4 jumpers, the buttons, LED’s or cycles will not function properly.

Jake
Thank you, Jake,

You said replace UI if 13.5. It wasn't 13.5. You say replace the UI anyway. Is that to mean that 13.5 and 14.14 are functionally the same -- that the main board is supplying sufficient power to the UI, and thus the problem must be the UI itself. Yes? Does this means that a new UI will def get us back in business?

Thank you for the service manual. I'll look for an online gif too.

Allen
 

Jake

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Even Though it says 13.5 volts DC most folks here measure 14 volts DC and higher which is still in the ballpark, so yes you will still need the new UI Board.:)

Jake
 

AllenM

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Location
Duncan SC
Thank you, Jake. The part is out of stock in lots of places now. I'll circle back, hopefully in a few weeks.
 

Jake

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Ok Allen, sounds good.

Jake
 

AllenM

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Location
Duncan SC
Hi Jake,

The UI board finally got un-backordered. Worked on it today. Got it apart, and took the inner and outer sections of the front door apart, figuring, 'ok, I'll access the board in 2 minutes now' ... yeah ... WRONG. Well, correct, I can access it. But that isn't the issue. Instructional video shows there are supposed to be two wire connectors attached to the UI board to release. Only one set of wires is in there! Pic 1 shows the bundle on the right side, but there are no wires on the left side. Pic 3 shows the left side in more detail. That white housing has two receptacle pins in it. But no wires to be seen.

I looked all around the door, inner and outer sections, under the insulation, etc. No wires. I looked on the underside of the d/w, and don't see any unterminated wires.

At this point, I reckon I may not need the UI board I just bought. Is the problem some wires that got loose? I have no idea how they could have worked themselves loose. We haven't used the d/w much, and last time was a few months back, but it hasn't been banged on or anything like that.

I like taking care of my own beeswax, and don't like just throwing my hands up to say 'what do I do now?' ... but that's where I'm at.

Allen
 

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Jake

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Hi Jake,

The UI board finally got un-backordered. Worked on it today. Got it apart, and took the inner and outer sections of the front door apart, figuring, 'ok, I'll access the board in 2 minutes now' ... yeah ... WRONG. Well, correct, I can access it. But that isn't the issue. Instructional video shows there are supposed to be two wire connectors attached to the UI board to release. Only one set of wires is in there! Pic 1 shows the bundle on the right side, but there are no wires on the left side. Pic 3 shows the left side in more detail. That white housing has two receptacle pins in it. But no wires to be seen.

I looked all around the door, inner and outer sections, under the insulation, etc. No wires. I looked on the underside of the d/w, and don't see any unterminated wires.

At this point, I reckon I may not need the UI board I just bought. Is the problem some wires that got loose? I have no idea how they could have worked themselves loose. We haven't used the d/w much, and last time was a few months back, but it hasn't been banged on or anything like that.

I like taking care of my own beeswax, and don't like just throwing my hands up to say 'what do I do now?' ... but that's where I'm at.

Allen
You can't go by the video, that why I posted the service manual instructions for you in post #4.:)

Take your time and start on it fresh with the service manual instructions.:)

Also remember what I said: NOTE--->When replacing UI control boards, the new UI Board MUST be configured as per the instructions included with the replacement. If the personality is not set by using the 4 jumpers, the buttons, LED’s or cycles will not function properly.

You will need to set the personality jumpers BEFORE you install the NEW UI Board.

Jake
 

AllenM

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Messages
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Location
Duncan SC
Hello Jake.

Thanks for the reply. Because of the elapsed time since I ordered the board, I forgot you sent that technical book. Oops. Today I did start fresh.

On the personality of the new UI board, I found my model on the sheet in the box, and the diagram next to it had all 4 of them solid black except for the second from the left -- it was half black and the other half had a black circle on white background. So, the little black jumpers that come off with needle nose pliers - I removed that one second from the left, and left the other 3 on the board.

Then I put in the UI board and re-assembled. Nothing changed. Steady green light on main control board. Voltage across pins 2 and 5 is 14.11 V -- same as how I started.

As far as my previous comment/pics and the missing wires going into the UI, I couldn't find anything in the technical manual you sent that says whether there should be two sets of wires or just one. The d/w used to work just fine, so I can't imagine I never had all necessary wiring. And hard to imagine that coming undone by itself, and not showing up somewhere. Stumped.
 

Jake

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No, you need to leave the 2nd from the left one in place, but half off, meaning it has to be out of the top hole, but in the bottom hole.:)

Look here:
jumpers.jpeg


Jake
 

AllenM

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Location
Duncan SC
Dang!!! I wondered about that. I'm glad I described what I saw and what I did.

Good thing is that taking the thing apart the second time goes a whole lot faster than the 1st. Wise man say - everything is simple once you understand it.

Thank you for the education, Jake. And the fast replies.
 

Jake

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Glad to help Allen.:)

Let us know how it goes.

Jake
 

AllenM

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Happy New Year, Jake. Got kidnapped with XMas and New Years stuff, but went back at it today. Not good news.

I put the UI board in with that jumper correctly placed. Still no power to the UI. I was pretty careful when joining the power wires right-bottom of the d/w and with other terminations, including (duh) the breaker setting.

Any suggestions?

Allen
 

Jake

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Ok Allen, Happy New Year!

If you have the UI Board jumpers set properly and nothing lights up and you have 14 volts DC at J401 Pins 1 and 2 on the UI Board, then your UI Board is defective.

You got the UI Board from RepairClinic?

Jake
 

AllenM

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Duncan SC
Hi Jake,

This morning I got just over 14V across pins 2 and 5 at J722.

If I get you, you want me to now see if that voltage is getting to the UI at J401. Not sure how to do that. Only thing I can think of is to take the door off and apart again, pull the UI out of the door, somehow connect the wires between J722 and J401 even though the UI is no longer in the door (i.e., between the main control board and the UI), power up the circuit, and test across pins 1 and 2 at UI J401. That the idea?
 

AllenM

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Location
Duncan SC
No, I did not get the UI at Repair Clinic. No one had it weeks ago. I saw GE would notify me when they got it back in stock, so that's what I did.
 

Jake

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Yes, take the door off again to do that. Just lay the door on the floor in front of your dishwasher plugged into the machine control board and test for 14 volts DC at the UI Board connector at J401 Pins 1 and 2.

That will verify the door wire harness is good. Its extremely rare to ever see that door wire harness go bad, but that will cover our assets, and then you will know for sure the UI Board is bad. LOL

Contact GE and tell them to send another UI Board.

Jake
 

AllenM

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Location
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Hi Jake,

Had more fun with it last night and today. See pics. You’ll understand why each are there without my play by play.

Just for grins, I compared the old and new boards. They appear the same in terms of electric guts. But the printed GE alpha-numeric info differs slightly. Not sure if that means they are different. GE should know. Note both boards are >6y old, but that shouldn’t make a difference if they’re stored right.

One pic of jumper positions.

I did as discussed, and had door laying on floor in front of d/w, so I could connect the J722 to J401 wires while putting leads on the J401. I got 4.11 volts across black/green and yellow/blue (2 and 5, resp’ly) at J722, and got 0.0 across the same colored wires at the J401 end.

See the J401 end – the harness has 2 columns of 5 connections each. The black/green and yellow/blue wires are each at the same end of their respective columns. So I simply placed the multimeter leads at the two touch point at the end of the two columns on the other side of the J401 assembly (i.e., the back side of the black/green and yellow/blue wires).

I also checked the physical integrity of the wires between the two respective harnesses. Didn’t see anything suspicious.

I’m reasonably handy around the house. But quite ignorant about electrical stuff. I say that because all the way through yesterday my gut was telling me it’s something I’m not doing right as opposed to the new UI board being bad. After today, though, I’m beginning to think it may be the new UI board. I’m now 50-50 on me vs it.

All within 60 seconds, with the power on, I tested the J722 and J401 voltages as discussed, and got 4.11 voltage and 0.0, respectively. It wasn’t like I had inadvertently tweaked anything else, left the circuit off for one of the measurements, etc.

Last thought – when I was measuring the J722 voltage with the door/J401 on the floor, I had trouble getting any reading across 2 and 5 at J722. Kept getting 0. I figured it was me not getting the leads on the pins. But I didn’t have that kind of trouble the several prior times I read that voltage. Those pins stand fairly proud off the board. Then, after 5 or 6 attempts, I got 4.11 twice in a row. I chalked that up to me mishandling the leads. But I wondered if the same thing could have happened when I kept getting 0.0 at J401. Difference is I tried that at least 10 times. Plus, there is a green indicator light toward the top of the d/w door, 1/4 inch or so below the UI display mid-length along that display. It never lit up, a different indication that the UI was not powered.

I suppose I could test the voltage across both areas again in the morning. It’s a snap to do with the door already off. Other than that, I’m not sure what else to do before having at GE.

Allen
 

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