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    ...Use a metal ( not the shiny chrome type ) screw driver with a insulated handle to short across ( touch both at the same time ) the terminals of the high voltage capacitor to discharge it.

    From Jeff's site: http://www.applianceaid.com/component-testing.php

    Jake
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FIXED GE Advantium Microwave (PSA1201RSS01) not heating - turns on - won't heat food

Effaroon

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2021
Messages
11
Location
Scranton PA
Model Number
PSA1201RSS01
Brand
GE
Age
6-10 years
Hello.

I have a GE Advantium microwave model number PSA1201RSS01 that turns on, light comes on, fan comes on, but it does not heat food. You can hear that the fan is just running and you don't get that powerful click / buzz when the microwave is actually working to cook the food.

I thought at first it was the turntable motor, because it was not spinning, when into the setting and turned the turntable off hoping to remove that from the troubleshooting equation - still not heating.

I greatly appreciate any advice - thank you!
 
Check for 120 VAC on the primary side of the high voltage transformer. That will tell you if the problem is on the low side or high side. If the voltage is 0V, the problem is either a door switch or control board. If the voltage is 120V the problem is going to be one of the HV components. Check the mag tube for continuity after you unplug it and discharge the capacitor.
 
Hi Rick - thank you so much. You are everywhere, you helped me with my oven. I will check what you suggested.
 
Sounds good keep us posted. I forgot to add, if you need to check the door switches for continuity, remove the wires on the door switch and check by opening and closing the door.
Unplug it-2.jpg
 
Rick,
I checked the door switches and found this:
1. The top one the plunger stays down, spring broken, and it is closed all the time. I believe, it should normally be opened and then closed when the door is closed. But I bet the microwave was still operating with this one bad.
2. The bottom one seems fine, normally opened, press the switch it closes
3. The middle on which seems normally closed - I noticed when you press the plunger it goes open, but when you release it it stays open, instead of going closed. It is very intermitted on how it works - so I think it is bad. But the fact that is has a tendency to stick open would allow the microwave to work it would think.

GE's Part Site doesn't give part numbers for these switch - on the door diagram - it shows the top and bottom as 604 and the middle as 607 - here is the GE page with the diagram:
https://www.geapplianceparts.com/st...nParts/PSA1201RSS01/4/0/0/0/LATCH_BOARD_PARTS

I hate to ask, I am a novice, can you please elaborate on how I would go about doing this: (or if you have a link to an article on how it is done)
Check for 120 VAC on the primary side of the high voltage transformer. That will tell you if the problem is on the low side or high side. If the voltage is 0V, the problem is either a door switch or control board. If the voltage is 120V the problem is going to be one of the HV components.

If the high voltage question is too much to explain, I understand... just very nervous to plug in the microwave and go poking around!

Thank you
 
The top and bottom interlock switches are NO switches.
1640676039360.png



The center monitor switch, Sometimes called a dead man switch. is a NC switch. The monitor switch shorts L1 and N together to keep the microwave from operating with the door open.
1640676231376.png


If the high voltage question is too much to explain, I understand... just very nervous to plug in the microwave and go poking around!
Never be afraid of electricity but always respect it. The primary side of the transformer has the two smaller wires and you're not going to be testing voltage on the high side ever. The high side wires come straight out of the transformer to the tube and cap. You're only interested in the voltage across the primary side. The high voltage can't jump out of the wires so unless you're planning to grab a live wire you'll be fine. Or if you're still nervous disconnect the two wires on the primary side and connect the meter leads to the wires then start it. This shows you the primary side of the transformer and the high side.

C-HV Testing.jpg
 
Alright Rick, I am ready to test, would you just kindly confirm the steps using my below photo - sorry to be such a newbie!!!

Tran-test.jpg
 
Rick,
You are not going to believe this... tested as you requested, and did in fact get 120 VAC coming to the transformer. My wife noticed the turntable was spinning normally. Unplugged microwave, deenergized capacitor (I probably didn't need to in this case) - then I reconnected the transformer wires. Plugged her back in, and it worked - started heating up a cup of water!!! So I think it is most likely those door Interlock / Monitor switches.

I broke the door switch HOLDER LOCKER (part no WB02X32720). So I am going to order that along with all 3 switches just to be safe. Hopefully this will fix it!

If you feel I am headed in the wrong direction with these parts, don't hesitate to let me know!

I would have NEVER gotten even close to a solution without you help - thank you so much!!!!
 
Rick,
I just wanted to close out this thread with a HUGE thank you! The microwave is remounted and working excellent. Seriously, thank you so much.
 
Rick has been out sick for 2 weeks, but he will be glad to hear that when he returns.(y)

Jake
 

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