GE Cafe CGS990SET5SS Oven igniter glowbar problem

savyas

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2017
Messages
3
Location
Atlanta, Ga
I had the same concern, to the point that I noticed that there were some extra holes in the sides of the pictured item on appliance pro's website for where the bake deflectors attach. Also, the PDF that bigbuck attached lists the models as well as the serial numbers of SV– TG (Sept. 2011 – Oct. 2016). My serial number for my CGS990SET4SS begins with SD, which does not fall into the range specified. However, upon further review I went ahead and ordered the parts, noting that the extra holes were offset from center in the same directions, and 2 of the 4 appeared to line up. If it doesn't work out, appliance pro's will take it back free of charge (minus my shipping, I'm guessing), so I'm not too worried.. heck, for $22 and change, it's worth the risk. I'll report back on proper fit.
Reporting back in - this part http://www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-deflector-oven-kit-wb49x27927-ap6040147.html plus a new igniter worked like a charm. like micnden below said, the holes do need to be tapped.. I just dug through my bucket of old screws and found a sacrificial phillips head that did the trick, rather than strip out the ones that were in the oven, which aren't very forgiving.
 

jagbartlett

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Joined
Dec 13, 2017
Messages
1
Location
California
Model JGB870SET1SS Ignitor out for the second time

So glad I found this site. Purchased model JGB870SET1SS in October 2012. This model is also covered in the Service Bulletin. Appliance repair replaced the ignitor in April 2016 (before the Service Bulletin came out in October 2016) Deflector issue not noted during the repair. Two days after Thanksgiving 2017 (at least it wasn't on Thanksgiving day) the ignitor went out again. Repair man at my house this morning noted the deflector issue. Replacing the ignitor AGAIN, and also the deflector this time. So frustrating that GE has not done more to rectify the known defect. My appliance is registered...seems they should have sent out notifications and provided new deflectors to owners of defective models. Parts won't be available for install until December 26th.....no Christmas baking for me, and no Christmas roast :( Thank you again for this thread.
 
Joined
Dec 30, 2017
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Location
Utah
Here is the Service Bulletin. RA04-16 No Heat In Lower Oven During Bake
If the lower oven is not heating in a bake setting, remove the oven floor and check the oven deflector. A deflector that has deformed could cause the bake ignitor to fail.

Replace the ignitor and install a new oven deflector WB49X27927
Isn't this something that GE should cover the costs on? If it has reached the point where they need to issue a Service Bulletin, and it is due to deformation of a factory part that will affect the majority of ovens (like mine, which this just happened to), why would they not cover this?
 

micnden

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Nov 24, 2017
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ME
Let me know if you get reimbursed

I seriously doubt if GE will reimburse since (as I mentioned before) they didn't even alert registered owners that this was a problem. But, if you can - let me know! By the way, my oven is still working fine with the new shield and ignitor.



Isn't this something that GE should cover the costs on? If it has reached the point where they need to issue a Service Bulletin, and it is due to deformation of a factory part that will affect the majority of ovens (like mine, which this just happened to), why would they not cover this?
 

Chuck2

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Joined
Jan 7, 2018
Messages
1
Location
Canada
Thank you all for the very helpful information. Lower oven stopped heating last night and after inspecting the igniter and the flame spreader - huge hole melted in flame spreader. I'll be calling GE for FREE replacement parts and will post again to let you all know how that goes.
 

Rusty G

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Jan 22, 2018
Messages
3
Location
Canada
Hello: Me too, timing is uncanny. Lower oven stopped working couple days ago. Right in the middle of a roast, cooled right down. Top oven ok, all burners ok. Ran into this Forum and now I can start looking at the heat shield problem discussed. Question: would just the heat shield need to be replaced or the igniter as well ? When I select Lower oven cook from the control panel, I do hear a click, but that's it. Also, can the heat shield be removed from the front of the range or have to pull it out and get to the rear ?
Thanks.
 

micnden

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Nov 24, 2017
Messages
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Location
ME
Part of an answer

Hello: Me too, timing is uncanny. Lower oven stopped working couple days ago. Right in the middle of a roast, cooled right down. Top oven ok, all burners ok. Ran into this Forum and now I can start looking at the heat shield problem discussed. Question: would just the heat shield need to be replaced or the igniter as well ? When I select Lower oven cook from the control panel, I do hear a click, but that's it. Also, can the heat shield be removed from the front of the range or have to pull it out and get to the rear ?
Thanks.
I'm giving you a partial answer so you know there are people reading these! I can't imagine the heat shield (if it melted like so many) being replaced without the ignitor. Hopefully a technician on this blog will get back to you about the clicking. Mine didn't click - once it stopped heating - there was nothing. What I can address is the replacement of the shield only. If you are fortunate enough to have just that problem, it can be replaced by just removing the floor from the oven and not moving it away from the wall. Let me suggest you definitely take the door off! You don't NEED to, but it makes getting the floor out easier. They are very easy to take off and the process is detailed in the owner's manual. Good luck!
 

Rusty G

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2018
Messages
3
Location
Canada
Thanks- removed door, and able to get bottom floor out. Wow, what a crater on the heat shield. No spark or anything happening while trying to fire up that oven. Will be ordering heat deflector #219 and igniter WB13K10043. At the rate these items fail, might be good idea to double up the order, have spare on hand for next time. Agreed, these seem to be manufacturing errors, not enough long-term testing at the factory. My range is 4 years old.
 

Rusty G

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2018
Messages
3
Location
Canada
Received replacement heat deflector shield and glow bar igniter. Heat shield might not have been correct one for my oven. Seems that WB49X27927 is hard to locate in Canada. Closest part # was WS01L01610 in stock and available. When it arrived, noticed the cutout part was on the wrong end, had to drill two holes to correctly mount the side heat pieces. In all was ok. Noticed how white hot the igniter came on and stayed on all the while testing the oven startup. Why does the igniter have to be on all the time ? Should turn off after gas ignition and oven warming up. Am foreseeing in another 3 or 4 years, igniter will fail again.
Very good writeup everyone to solve this problem, thank you.
 

Nebulus

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2018
Messages
2
Location
Saint Louis, MO
Same Problem With GE Igniter

I am officially joining this club. We purchased a GE double oven range PGB995SET2SS in 2013 as part of a complete kitchen remodel. Actually it was a remodel of much of the house. The igniter is the latest in line of things I replaced that failed, including:

Both new bathroom toilets (rebuilt both inner tanks replacing everything)
Master Bath vanity/sink (water rolled off onto floor, replaced entire thing)
Master Bath faucet (valves replaced)
Main Bath faucet (Handles and tailpiece disintegrated, replaced both)
Main Bath towel bars (Stainless steel rusted! Fought with manufacturer for replacement)
Dishwasher (display panel failed, due to design defect, fought with manufacturer for replacement. A new rinse aid dispenser is on its way now.)

Now I can add the oven to the ever growing list. The oven is on a GFI circuit. It kept tripping, so I replaced the GFI. The new one tripped once. The oven then stopped working.

I installed a new igniter. I was getting ready to put the oven panels back in, but I started to wonder about how all the extra metal got on the old igniter. I looked under the bottom panel at the heat deflector and saw dreaded reverse volcano looking at me, saying, "yeah, I am against you too."

"You've been talking to the dishwasher, for sure," I said. So many of the remodeled items have failed, I find talking to them is good therapy.

Anyway, I then found this forum. Thanks to all who have been subjected to the punishment of GE and reported it. I just want to add that after seeing the replacement heat deflector, I saw it was the same as the one I currently have, but with a rectangular area taken out of it. Very interesting. I suppose the stainless shield must have a higher melting point? I am sure GE has tested this fix thoroughly and has the data to back it up. They are professionals, after all. Hopefully they were putting more resources into jet engines that day.

So I cut the deflector I had to remove the piece that GE removes now. I looked a the part on a website that had it on a 1" square grid and figured out where to cut. If anyone is interested in doing this, you could save a few bucks. I did just out of principle. I mean, this thing cost a lot of money! It was not purchased at Big Lots, I can assure you of that. I really should not have to be doing this.

I have attached a file showing what I did, in case someone in the future stumbles upon this and wants to do the same thing.

One last thing--you do not need to use the same exact igniter. It is a pretty generic design used by many manufacturers. You can buy a cheaper one, but you may need to remove the old metal "cage" from the broken igniter and place it on the new igniter. Be careful! The igniter is very brittle. Maybe get your brother to do it, so if he breaks it, you can blame him. Also, you can cut the wires from the old igniter and tie the new one in using ceramic wire nuts. The wire nuts should come with the new igniter. DO NOT USE PLASTIC ONES!!! I had to strip double the length on the wires from the new igniter and fold it over. This, along with the wires from the range gave enough thickness for the wire nuts to securely tie them together. You can do a quick search on youtube to see people installing igniters this way. Make sure to push the wire nuts through the back hole past the insulation. Don't leave them in the oven area.

View attachment GE Deflector Repair.pdf
 

Tonkaman

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2018
Messages
2
Location
Missouri
This thread has been very helpful but we still have an issue. We just replaced the igniter & deflector. Nothing is happening, gas is not coming on. What have we missed? Upper oven is working as well as burners.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Aug 24, 2004
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McMullen Valley, Arizona
Does the new glowbar igniter start glowing orange when you turn on the bottom oven on bake?

Jake
 

Jake

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McMullen Valley, Arizona
Use a multimeter and take a volt test at the connector where it plugs into the ignitor, when the oven is ON and set to BAKE your meter should read 120 volts, if it does then that indicates your oven igniter glowbar is bad.

Jake
 

Nebulus

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Feb 17, 2018
Messages
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Location
Saint Louis, MO
The only thing I will add to what Jake said is that you should be careful when testing this if you are not used to working with live electricity. Make sure the wires don't touch the metal sides of the oven (if you removed the plug like I did). It can short out.

If you find no voltage at the plug, the plug connector itself could have a bad connection.
 

Kaathleen

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Joined
May 10, 2018
Messages
3
Location
NE
I just had a service tech in today to fix this issue for the second time in a week! He replaced the ignitor last week, it failed, and then replaced it a second time today, it failed again. Then he noticed the flame spreader as he called it,
had a hole blown thru it. I am concerned for the safety of the appliance. I bought this in 2014 right after my daughter bought the same model. She had the same issue last year. The technician who fixed hers said it SHOULD
be a recall issue as it is a fire hazard. I did not listen to her concerns then, but I am now! My technician does not seem to think it is that serious of an issue. Waiting for the parts for the third go around!
 

bigbuck

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From Planet Mars
Have you seen this post?

- - - Updated - - -

Here is the Service Bulletin. RA04-16 No Heat In Lower Oven During Bake
If the lower oven is not heating in a bake setting, remove the oven floor and check the oven deflector. A deflector that has deformed could cause the bake ignitor to fail.

Replace the ignitor and install a new oven deflector WB49X27927
Have you seen this post?
 

Attachments

rdh4atl

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Joined
May 28, 2018
Messages
1
Location
GA
WOW - I cannot believe I found this thread. Same issue but I see in the service bulletin that the secondary shield that is reused is stainless also. I think mine is coated steel. Anybody tried this fix with with steel back-up shield? Or does someone have a part number for a stainless back-up shield?
 

pamulli

Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2018
Messages
1
Location
GA
I am in the process of replacing my second igniter and heat shield and am very glad I found this forum because I was planning on replacing it with the same faulty heat shield. I don't understand why the old one is still available. I wrongly assumed that the igniter was going out and in the process was melting the heat shield, but now I understand the heat shield is what is killing the igniter. I'm a little annoyed that it didn't occur to me to just cut out the bad spot, but oh well.
I saw someone else ask this and didn't see a response, but what about the two additional pieces of metal that will still be directly above the igniter? Wouldn't those also melt if they are getting that hot or does the heat shield have a lower melting point?

I have the CGS990SET4SS and it looks nice, but overall it has been a disappointment. I cook a lot and this oven heats very unevenly and I really don't understand why they put the primary oven on the bottom. Now add this faulty design/materials.
 
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