GE Cafe CGS990SET5SS Oven igniter glowbar problem

Jake

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Thanks bigbuck for updating that service bulletin.:)

Jake
 

Kaathleen

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I have had it! I am now on my second repair company, 1 1/2 months without an oven, 4 igniters blown, 1 blown heat spreader replaced....$500 repair costs, and NOW the hardwired ignitor they installed last week trips
the fuse box and shuts down all on that circuit. Can anyone recommend a gas stove with an electric oven that I can purchase with confidence???? Kathleen.
 

Jake

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KitchenAid Dual Fuel Ranges are very good.

Lowes and Home Depot has them, and probably you local area appliance store would have them.

Jake
 

Kaathleen

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thank u Jake-I stopped at Lowes this morning and will do some consumer report research. K.
 

Jake

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Sounds good Kaathleen.:)

Jake
 

ChristineL

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Make sure to read all the comments about the repeated issue with the bottom oven! It is absolutely true! Within 1.5 years, our bottom oven stopped working. After not being able to fix it on our own with GE replacement parts, we hired an independent repair company suggested by GE, in our region (Ottawa, Ontario). The repair person says that he had seen the same issue with this appliance with other customers. The problem seems to be that the bake ignitor burns through the deflector(s) and then this causes damage to the ignitor because the deflector melts/breaks onto the ignitor. Prior to the repair person coming over, we had tried to fix it ourselves. We ordered the recommended parts and re-assembled the new parts EXACTLY as they were before (we had taken pictures while disassembling the older damaged parts). The oven had a horrible toxic smell and immediately starting burning through the new stainless steel deflector. We then gave up and got professional help.

The repair person told us that we had purchased the incorrect deflector. He ordered another one and charged us $152. We now had to wait until the new part came in. Immediately after he left, we researched the issue more in depth and came across a blog about this appliance and found a memo titled "Service Bulletin March 2017 RA03-17, superseding RA04-16". Taking a look at this, we see that both we and the repair person had NOT assembled the parts in the correct order. There are TWO deflectors in this oven and we has re-assembled them in the wrong order.

When re-assembling, the first one to be installed (closest to the ignitor) needs to be the one with the cut-out titled "Bake deflector with 4" cut-out". Then, the next one to be installed is the "Stainless steel deflector" as per the service bulletin. We tried this order after the repair person left and the over is now working fine again, with no more smell and no apparent melting. If we are correct, it appears that the two deflectors may have been reserved when the Range was originally built by GE. This is why there is a problem, and this may be why attempts to fix the range (and re-assembling as originally there) is not working.

The Service Bulletin seems to have the parts assembled differently than when the range is delivered. This being said, I will be taking this issue up with GE Canada. I will also be heading to Lowes where the unit was purchased. I would like to see how the original is assembled. Perhaps it was a fluke in assembling at some point on the production line...? If this is correct, we will be asking for GE to refund repair costs. Hope this helps!
 

IFixOvens

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New York
Ok, so after having this issue and reading through this forum I see that there is some misinformation that is probably confusing people. The first post contains a link to an igniter but it is NOT the right one. This oven has two glowbars, one for the bottom, and one for the top. They are very different in how they function but look similar. The mounts are completely different. The top mount has a casing to protect food from debris in case of a break. The bottom one is completely open. The plugs are the same but the glowbars themselves are NOT interchangable.

Bottom:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-ignitor-glow-bar-wb13k10043-ap5645233.html

Top:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-igniter-glowbar-wb13x25263-ap5986242.html
 

constructionpro

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Pennsylvania
Ok, so after having this issue and reading through this forum I see that there is some misinformation that is probably confusing people. The first post contains a link to an igniter but it is NOT the right one. This oven has two glowbars, one for the bottom, and one for the top. They are very different in how they function but look similar. The mounts are completely different. The top mount has a casing to protect food from debris in case of a break. The bottom one is completely open. The plugs are the same but the glowbars themselves are NOT interchangable.

Bottom:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-ignitor-glow-bar-wb13k10043-ap5645233.html

Top:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-igniter-glowbar-wb13x25263-ap5986242.html
The same thing happened to me glow bar went for the 5th time and deflector should is damaged.
This is a design flaw and G needs to be accountable.
The message needs to get to GE.
 

constructionpro

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Pennsylvania
The same thing happened to me glow bar went for the 5th time and deflector should is damaged.
This is a design flaw and G needs to be accountable.
The message needs to get to GE.
 

constructionpro

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Pennsylvania
The same thing happened to me glow bar went for the 5th time and deflector shield is damaged.
This is a design flaw and GE needs to be held accountable.
The message needs to get to GE.
 

Jake

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Well, now that GE does not own GE appliances anymore, the message needs to get to China, In 2016, Haier Group acquired GE Appliances.

Haier is a China Company.

So now GE, LG, Samsung, Bosch, Frigidaire are all foreign owned companies to stay away from.

In my house I own all Whirlpool and Maytag appliances, not a single problem with them at all ever.

Jake
 

appliancer

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Oct 1, 2018
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Location
Washington
Thanks everybody for the help and information posted here. Much appreciated!

I'm with a CGS990SET5SS, bottom glowbar is toast, the deflector is toast.

Ordered a new glowbar and deflector. Problem is now that the screws stripped when I removed the old stuff (both the screws that hold the deflector in place, and the screws that hold the enameled plate to the back).

What do I need to know before I buy these screws? Any special spec for high heat resistance or would any sheet metal screw work?

Thanks a again,
Ken.
 

Jake

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Any sheet metals screws will be fine Ken.:)

Jake
 

ClayJohnn

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Oct 20, 2018
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FL
Did anyone have issues with the convection fan after replacing the igniter, heatshield and deflector. I have replaced them and not sure if these two functions are related as my fan does not seem to kick on right away.

- - - Updated - - -

Jake, Do you know if you can double up the heatshields for a more protective barrier?
 

Jake

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Hi Clay,

Jake, Do you know if you can double up the heatshields for a more protective barrier?
No, I've never had to do that, that shouldn't be necessary.

Jake
 

Fuelpowered

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United States
Update-
Igniter failed yet again on the lower oven. Paid discounted rate for a new one from G.E. Tore the stove apart to install it and it wouldn't fire. The metal deflector is pretty much destroyed anyway from being overheated by the igniter. Lost interest in it after this bs episode. I'm convinced that there really is no remedy for this defect in design and also am upset over the manufacturer not doing enough to make things right. Unit should be recalled and hauled out with a refund issued. What a shame this range can't work right.
 

Jake

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If your not getting anywhere with GE on this matter and its NOT getting permanently fixed, I'd suggest filing a consumer compliant with your start attorney generals office.

If your in Illinois it would be here: http://www.illinoisattorneygeneral.gov/consumers/filecomplaint.html

Also everyone that owns this defective GE oven should post there dis-satisfaction to GE's facebook page too: https://www.facebook.com/geappliances/

Also contact your local TV station and get the media involved, big corporate companies hate bad press about them, and I know someone at GE's corporate headquarters will contact you in a heartbeat to give you complete satisfaction.

Jake
 

tlm-va

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Alexandria, VA
I had this same issue, but it was caused by the heat deflector being installed incorrectly at the factory. I contacted GE via chat, explained the situation, and sent them a photo of the heat shield and my receipt for the replacement parts, and they have sent a check to cover the parts. The refund process was petty straightforward.
--Tom
 

don cl

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Feb 18, 2019
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Location
Long Branch NJ
Same igniter and heat shield problem but concern about using old shield

Hello fellow GE CGS990 owners,
I just came across this thread, after dealing with a replacement for my oven, I have had ALL the same issues, including heat shield. Note that I have CGS990SET3SS not 5SS, we had had 6 years. I'm not sure of difference in 3ss to 5ss.
I am here to ask an important question about heat shield but first an additional problem I had that might be of interest to igniter purchasers in future

As an additional issue of note is I went through conniptions getting a new igniter glow bar from repair clinic.com. They had to send replacement 4 times as each time the glo bar element would come broken due to rattling around unprotected in the OEM GE part box that was within their larger outer box. this was not a repairclinic problem I think, but a GE problem (except for them not repacking OEM box). twice there was nothing supporting the element in the OEM part box, and once there was a piece of FLAT bubble wrap doing nothing. they finally shipped it with element in foam and I got it successfully and could go on to repair (see Pic of all the fails. Right most came with foam block and was successful) (also, of note, repair clinic cheerfully sent a free replacement with free expedited shipping each time, too bad they wasted so many of their parts and my time)

After replacing igniter, I went to put heat shield back on and only then noticed the hole, with the hardened molten metal that I determined would have reached all the way to the element. If I had installed shield directly it might have broken element below by pushing against it. I wanted to complete repair, so I disassembled the copper plate from the shield and hammered the heat shield flat. Much of the metal remains had lost their malleability and broke off, so I was left with a 1/4 inch hole, which was now flat. I reinstalled, tested oven and my wife was successfully able to bake with it an hour later.

My question to all on this thread is, will having that hole cause a problem either with heat distribution or safety. To my thinking, it might actually help the problem by having no metal to melt right above and a hole to allow excess heat to go upward, above element. If having an intact heat shield is imperative, I will order one, but I am thinking it might be off to leave the hole.
Any one who has knowledge of this please let me know

Pics1) all of the replacement igniters with failed packaging, 2) the final packing that made it to me successfully 3) my heat shield 4) heat shield hole after flattening, which I reinstalled

20190216_085316.jpg 20190216_084617.jpg 20190216_124108.jpg 20190216_130117.jpg
 
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