I followed exactly what you did and made the same cut out on my existing deflector. The one question I have however is when you reinstall this deflector back do you install the copper sheild deflector back on top of this. Hope I’m being clear enough here, so there is the bottom oven assembly which is removed, then there is the copper sheid in between this assembly and the deflector that I cut. Do reinstall this as well back the same way to which I removed it? Your help would be greatly appreciated. ThanksI am officially joining this club. We purchased a GE double oven range PGB995SET2SS in 2013 as part of a complete kitchen remodel. Actually it was a remodel of much of the house. The igniter is the latest in line of things I replaced that failed, including:
Both new bathroom toilets (rebuilt both inner tanks replacing everything)
Master Bath vanity/sink (water rolled off onto floor, replaced entire thing)
Master Bath faucet (valves replaced)
Main Bath faucet (Handles and tailpiece disintegrated, replaced both)
Main Bath towel bars (Stainless steel rusted! Fought with manufacturer for replacement)
Dishwasher (display panel failed, due to design defect, fought with manufacturer for replacement. A new rinse aid dispenser is on its way now.)
Now I can add the oven to the ever growing list. The oven is on a GFI circuit. It kept tripping, so I replaced the GFI. The new one tripped once. The oven then stopped working.
I installed a new igniter. I was getting ready to put the oven panels back in, but I started to wonder about how all the extra metal got on the old igniter. I looked under the bottom panel at the heat deflector and saw dreaded reverse volcano looking at me, saying, "yeah, I am against you too."
"You've been talking to the dishwasher, for sure," I said. So many of the remodeled items have failed, I find talking to them is good therapy.
Anyway, I then found this forum. Thanks to all who have been subjected to the punishment of GE and reported it. I just want to add that after seeing the replacement heat deflector, I saw it was the same as the one I currently have, but with a rectangular area taken out of it. Very interesting. I suppose the stainless shield must have a higher melting point? I am sure GE has tested this fix thoroughly and has the data to back it up. They are professionals, after all. Hopefully they were putting more resources into jet engines that day.
So I cut the deflector I had to remove the piece that GE removes now. I looked a the part on a website that had it on a 1" square grid and figured out where to cut. If anyone is interested in doing this, you could save a few bucks. I did just out of principle. I mean, this thing cost a lot of money! It was not purchased at Big Lots, I can assure you of that. I really should not have to be doing this.
I have attached a file showing what I did, in case someone in the future stumbles upon this and wants to do the same thing.
One last thing--you do not need to use the same exact igniter. It is a pretty generic design used by many manufacturers. You can buy a cheaper one, but you may need to remove the old metal "cage" from the broken igniter and place it on the new igniter. Be careful! The igniter is very brittle. Maybe get your brother to do it, so if he breaks it, you can blame him. Also, you can cut the wires from the old igniter and tie the new one in using ceramic wire nuts. The wire nuts should come with the new igniter. DO NOT USE PLASTIC ONES!!! I had to strip double the length on the wires from the new igniter and fold it over. This, along with the wires from the range gave enough thickness for the wire nuts to securely tie them together. You can do a quick search on youtube to see people installing igniters this way. Make sure to push the wire nuts through the back hole past the insulation. Don't leave them in the oven area.
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