GE Cafe CGS990SET5SS Oven igniter glowbar problem

Marco maser

Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2019
Messages
1
Location
Woodbridge
I am officially joining this club. We purchased a GE double oven range PGB995SET2SS in 2013 as part of a complete kitchen remodel. Actually it was a remodel of much of the house. The igniter is the latest in line of things I replaced that failed, including:

Both new bathroom toilets (rebuilt both inner tanks replacing everything)
Master Bath vanity/sink (water rolled off onto floor, replaced entire thing)
Master Bath faucet (valves replaced)
Main Bath faucet (Handles and tailpiece disintegrated, replaced both)
Main Bath towel bars (Stainless steel rusted! Fought with manufacturer for replacement)
Dishwasher (display panel failed, due to design defect, fought with manufacturer for replacement. A new rinse aid dispenser is on its way now.)

Now I can add the oven to the ever growing list. The oven is on a GFI circuit. It kept tripping, so I replaced the GFI. The new one tripped once. The oven then stopped working.

I installed a new igniter. I was getting ready to put the oven panels back in, but I started to wonder about how all the extra metal got on the old igniter. I looked under the bottom panel at the heat deflector and saw dreaded reverse volcano looking at me, saying, "yeah, I am against you too."

"You've been talking to the dishwasher, for sure," I said. So many of the remodeled items have failed, I find talking to them is good therapy.

Anyway, I then found this forum. Thanks to all who have been subjected to the punishment of GE and reported it. I just want to add that after seeing the replacement heat deflector, I saw it was the same as the one I currently have, but with a rectangular area taken out of it. Very interesting. I suppose the stainless shield must have a higher melting point? I am sure GE has tested this fix thoroughly and has the data to back it up. They are professionals, after all. Hopefully they were putting more resources into jet engines that day.

So I cut the deflector I had to remove the piece that GE removes now. I looked a the part on a website that had it on a 1" square grid and figured out where to cut. If anyone is interested in doing this, you could save a few bucks. I did just out of principle. I mean, this thing cost a lot of money! It was not purchased at Big Lots, I can assure you of that. I really should not have to be doing this.

I have attached a file showing what I did, in case someone in the future stumbles upon this and wants to do the same thing.

One last thing--you do not need to use the same exact igniter. It is a pretty generic design used by many manufacturers. You can buy a cheaper one, but you may need to remove the old metal "cage" from the broken igniter and place it on the new igniter. Be careful! The igniter is very brittle. Maybe get your brother to do it, so if he breaks it, you can blame him. Also, you can cut the wires from the old igniter and tie the new one in using ceramic wire nuts. The wire nuts should come with the new igniter. DO NOT USE PLASTIC ONES!!! I had to strip double the length on the wires from the new igniter and fold it over. This, along with the wires from the range gave enough thickness for the wire nuts to securely tie them together. You can do a quick search on youtube to see people installing igniters this way. Make sure to push the wire nuts through the back hole past the insulation. Don't leave them in the oven area.

View attachment 36757
I followed exactly what you did and made the same cut out on my existing deflector. The one question I have however is when you reinstall this deflector back do you install the copper sheild deflector back on top of this. Hope I’m being clear enough here, so there is the bottom oven assembly which is removed, then there is the copper sheid in between this assembly and the deflector that I cut. Do reinstall this as well back the same way to which I removed it? Your help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

Oregongirl357

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2019
Messages
3
Location
Central Point
Please add me to this thread. I'm having the same issue. Mine is a couple of years old and I just ordered a replacement heat shield and igniter.
 

Oregongirl357

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2019
Messages
3
Location
Central Point
I have an update to this thread. GE has redesigned the heat shield increasing the cut out size to 4". Also, it came with detailed instructions on how to properly install it with a few extra warnings about installing it incorrectly. I am 100% certain that mine was installed incorrectly originally from the factory as this is the first time it's been replaced and the melted/burned section was opposite and diagonal from the cutout and clearly directly over the igniter. Also agree with others that have noted the screws get damaged with heat - I had trouble extracting over half of them. Fingers crossed that the problem is solved.
 

Fuelpowered

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2016
Messages
13
Location
United States
Update 2019 April
GE has allegedly fixed my range. Replacement of electronic guts and a revised heat shield with new igniters. They say that this is it and that it should run flawless for the rest of it's life. That's what they tell me.
 

Mashman

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2018
Messages
4
Location
Austin
Well, now the upper oven is working. Go figure.

I'll add that this is the second time that the lower oven igniter was replaced. The first time was by the appliance repair from whom I purchased the unit. He replaced the igniter but not the deflector shield, so I don't know if there was a "hole" burned into the deflector shield at that time.
I seem to be in the same boat, did you find a solution to this problem?

I had the issue with the igniter burning the hole in the shield, and fixed that, but now the upper oven will not heat up. When I turn it on the light comes on and the heating light comes on for a few seconds, but then it turns off. I replaced the thermostat and that fixed the issue for a short time. It seemed to work and heated up, but when I turned the oven all the way up, and let it run (kind of a stress test) I cam back after about an hour and it was doing the same thing. Something that happened when the igniter shorted that is causing upper oven thermostats to go bad.

Note - when the issue first occurred we hired a repair tech who came out and was worthless. He took the oven apart, said he couldn't fix it, didn't put it back together, told us to buy a new oven, and charged us $500! After that is when I found this thread and fixed the igniter myself! But one thing he did say that is interesting is that he said he found a relay melted. He replaced the relay and when that didn't fix the oven I guess that is when he gave up - I don't know if he even looked at the igniter.

I only know of one relay(WB13K10050), I think I'm going to try replacing that relay. Does anyone have any other suggestions?
 
Last edited:
Top