FIXED GE Cafe Range CGY366P2M1S1 Oven not igniting

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Model Number

CGY366P2M1S1

Brand

GE

Age

1-5 years

4 year old GE Cafe range CGY366P2M1S1; running propane. Top burners work fine. Oven will not ignite.
Unit is not posting any error codes, and after removing and reinstating power it comes up fine with no codes.

I pulled the bottom cover off the oven and watched the ignitor glow bright orange, so no issue with the ignitor and no sign of damage to the reflector plate.
I'm not getting any gas smell at all in the oven, so it seems that it is a fuel delivery problem. I am looking at this diagram: https://www.geapplianceparts.com/store/parts/ModelSectionParts/CGY366P2M1S1/5/0/0/0/BODY_PARTS
I see a couple of potential culprits (relay board, safety valve) - but I would really like to learn the proper troubleshooting steps instead of tossing parts at the problem.

Any advice regarding what to check for, sounds to listen for as the oven is turned on, or any other observations -- would be very much appreciated.

 

[Dan O.]

watched the ignitor glow bright orange, so no issue with the ignitor

That is not necessarily the case. The ignitor needs to draw a specific amount of current to open the gas valve. Its amperage draw needs to be tested to determine whether there is no issue with the ignitor. Any yes, an ignitor can glow and still be defective.

The ignitor used on your model needs to draw 3.2 - 3.6 amps to open the gas valve to the burner.

LINK > GE CGY366P2M1S1 Bake Ignitor

I see a couple of potential culprits (relay board, safety valve)

A problem with the relay board would stop all power from going to the ignitor = NO glow.


Dan O.

 

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oh wow, okay thank you Dan O. for that knowledge. I will break out the ammeter and see what we get. Awesome - thanks again!

 

[Dan O.]

As ignitors age they get 'weak'. You can expect to have to replace them several times over the range's lifespan.

LINK > Appliance411 FAQ: Understanding Gas Oven Ignition Systems


Let us know how you make out.

Dan O.

 

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I admit, it's not a high-end meter - but it is showing me almost 3A on that leg (edit - it did take about 60 seconds to get up to 2.95A and stay there). Since it's below the range of 3.2A to 3.6A do I conclude it needs to be replaced? It sure does get (very) hot.

Also now that I pulled the connector plate off where the leads go into the cabinet, I see that I can't get to the connector. Looks like the range has to come away from the wall to get to the connector, from the back?

 

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And one more picture, after it cooled back down. Anything about the way this heater looks that seems 'bad' ? There is some discoloration in the middle part; not sure if that is normal or not.

 

[Dan O.]

Since it's below the range of 3.2A to 3.6A do I conclude it needs to be replaced?

Yes.

Anything about the way this heater looks that seems 'bad' ?

No... but that is normal. If it was physically broken it wouldn't glow at all.

I see that I can't get to the connector. Looks like the range has to come away from the wall to get to the connector, from the back?

If the manufacturer was being generous there may be enough slack in the wiring to pull the connector into the oven cavity. Fiddling might be required to get the connector through the hole. Otherwise the only options are to get in from the rear or cut and join the wires using ceramic wire nuts. If possible I suggest you try to avoid the latter.

JMO

Dan O.

 

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I'm a little surprised by this GE range; usually for a DIYer like me I've found my GE appliances to be more easily serviceable. There's another blocking plate on the other side of the structure where those wires disappear and I can see the threaded end of a sheet metal screw, pointing inward toward the oven chamber (roll_eyes_emoji.jpg). So no way I can see to fish the connector out.

Since after doing some more reading I see that these ignitors have a high failure rate, I think I'm going to mount a small ceramic terminal block against that back wall next to the hole where the wires go. That way I have an easy way of replacing, now and in the future. The ceramic terminal block should be fine in that location.

Thanks again for the help with this. New part is on it's way; I'll report back once the mission concludes : )

 

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Okay, it's done and it worked out great (so far). I ended up buying an ignitor that looked exactly like the part called for, but not listed as a replacement. It was nearly 1/4 the price on Amazon. Not sure why it isn't listed as a match, when I compared the new to old they are exactly the same, and it meets the current draw spec. I used the existing hole for the wire plate to mount the terminal block, so didn't have to drill into the oven.

So we are back in business - thanks for the advice here it really helped.

 

[Jake]

I ended up buying an ignitor that looked exactly like the part called for, but not listed as a replacement. It was nearly 1/4 the price on Amazon.

These negative reviews sums up why its so cheap: https://www.amazon.com/product-revi...r&reviewerType=all_reviews#reviews-filter-bar

Its always better to get the OEM @Dan O. posted in post #2. You get what you pay for as grandpa used to say.

 

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These negative reviews sums up why its so cheap: https://www.amazon.com/product-revi...r&reviewerType=all_reviews#reviews-filter-bar

I hear you...but I did check reviews carefully, including of the OEM part directly from GE. I didn't realize a part could actually achieve a "1.2 star" rating.

WB13X25264 | RANGE IGNITER GLOWBAR | GE Appliances Parts

RANGE IGNITER GLOWBAR

www.geapplianceparts.com

So according to my math, the part I selected is going to last 4 times as long (lol!)

 

[Jake]

Yes, I see what you mean, that is very odd.

At Dan's link to it above it has 5 stars.

At any rate, I hope it last many years for you, sorry I didn't mean to throw cold water on your repair.