FIXED GE DCVH515EF0WW stop and starting issues

popman

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2018
Messages
12
Location
Missouri
Model
DCVH515EF0WW
Brand
GE
Age
6-10 years
Hello, I ordered a dryer thermistor part WE4M398 for my ge dryer model DCVH515EF0WW. Reason is dryer will run and shut down and maybe start maybe not. Sometimes it will shut down and if left alone it will start itself. I tested the high limit switch, the thermistor and the high temp thermostat.

According to everything I research they all should be able to have a test with a multimeter set on either audio ohms or manual.

According to those test researched I see continuity in everything but the thermistor, which shows none at all. I bought a new thermistor (we4m398) it measures the same way, nothing. Either the new (not installed yet) is bad or I am missing something on that part. Can you explain this to me, am I looking at the wrong test or the wrong part?

Thank you in advance
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Hi,

Here's the inlet thermistor for your model:
Thermistor WE4M398


Normal will show between 90,000 to 100,000 ohms at room temp, you need to set the meter at 100K ohms or above to test it. Make sure your dryer stays unplugged and wires off of that thermistor first.

Jake
 

popman

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Jan 21, 2018
Messages
12
Location
Missouri
Thank you sir
The part you showed is the part I bought. The ohm setting was set to 20k instead of 200,000. I have a reading on the new part now but it is higher at 114. I will remove the old part tomorrow and test it. Is there some small variance for measurement?
 

popman

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Messages
12
Location
Missouri
I got into the other part and it registered at 133 even though the longer I held the probes on it the lower it went but vey slowly
 

Jake

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popman

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Messages
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Location
Missouri
Mr Jake thank you for the info. I accessed the test mode t2 unfortunately I guess I cleared it before going through it all but did happen to catch an E60 which listed first. That appears to be a door switch error. I will use the dryer and see how it goes and if any problems arise I can check it again. I did replace the thermistor as well. In the meantime I will price out a door switch if that comes up again. One other question...can the timer buzzer be replaced? It doesn't work.

Thanks again and I will follow up on this thread later and let you know how it went
 

Jake

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Unplug or turn the breaker off to your dryer first!

Yes, check the door switch with a multimeter. It should just pop out. Mark the three wires so you can get them back in the right spot. The terminals are marked on the switch, COM = COMmon, NO= Normally Open, NC= Normally Closed. Set your meter to check continuity and put your meter probes on COM and NO. Your meter should show 1 or OL(OPEN LEAD). Push the switch and your meter should read 0 or closed(GOOD CONTINUITY).

Here's the door switch for your model you can order if needed:
WE4M415 Door Switch


Let us know what you find.


One other question...can the timer buzzer be replaced?
I looked on your schematic and didn't see a separate buzzer. It may be integrated into the user interface.

Here's the user interface board for your model: GE WE4M385 User Interface Board

Jake
 

popman

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Messages
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Location
Missouri
On the buzzer, it is actually on the mainboard. It seems like it may come off but I dont want to mess with it and break something else. I will check the door switch out. Thanks!
 

popman

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Messages
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Location
Missouri
Ok new update: I tried to get the door switch out but it is stubborn and I stopped. Not sure if the front panel needs to come off or what. In the meantime I was running the dryer and it did its stop and go thing again.

While it was stopped one time I pushed the start button and nothing, so I started to just bump the door here and there and it started up again.

This is weird, I intentionally stopped the dryer and tried to start it with no luck until I bumped a spot at about 5:00 on the door. I repeated this procedure several times with the same spot and almost every time it fired back up. Also I checked the codes again and there are none. I'm confused now!
 

Jake

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Then its likely that door switch.

Jake
 
Last edited:

Jake

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Ok, sounds good, keep us posted.

Jake
 

popman

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Messages
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Location
Missouri
New door switch did not fix it. The bumping on the door had me concerned of something loose. So after replacing all the heat sensors and cleaning any lint that may make it overheat, I was about to give up as it seemed to get worse.

Just before tossing the dryer out I thought I would check the mainboard for loose anything. I discovered a loose part on the board. The slightest touch made the difference. It is large black plastic part 1 of 3 on the board.

Relay maybe, I thought I could post a picture but I cant. I placed a piece of foam between it and a plug and it all seems to work ok now it is not vibrating. One for the books for sure.
 

Jake

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Excellent, good find!

Here's the main control board for your model you can order below if that foam trick doesn't hold up.:)

WE4M488 Main Pwr Board Asm


Thanks for the update!

I thought I could post a picture but I cant.
Sure you can, To upload photos--->Just Click "Go Advanced" at the bottom right side of this Quick Reply editor that we type in, then you will see the MANAGE Attachments Button.

Jake
 

Jake

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Sounds good.:)

Jake
 
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