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FIXED GE Dishwasher GDT635HSJ2SS has no power.

COLanders

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2022
Messages
9
Location
Denver, CO
Model Number
GDT635HSJ2SS
Brand
GE
Age
1-5 years
Over the past few months, our dishwasher has periodically 'gone dead' having no power. It's connected to an outlet under the sink. When this first happened, we would unplug, wait a few minutes, and plug back in. Up until today, that would work and it would power back on. However we've done that several times and it is not powering back on. From reading some other threads - it sounds like this Control Panel may have died and needs to be replaced, however I didn't see any thread that mentioned this specific model number - so I figured I would post a thread in case there was something else to try. Any help is appreciated!
 

Jake

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Messages
130,312
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Hi,

--->Check your machine control board STATUS LED, Tell us how many times its FLASHING in a row, or if its STEADY ON or STEADY OFF.

--->Here's the machine control board for your model: WD21X24900

GE control 3.jpg


Restore Power, then make sure the door harness connector is attached to the bottom of the control board casing connector when you view the STATUS LED light, Also make sure the 120 VAC SUPPLY connector to it in the front is still attached to it also.

D-GE control board status led.jpg


Jake
 

COLanders

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2022
Messages
9
Location
Denver, CO
Thank you Jake! This morning I actually found another thread that I think you helped on... responding w/ the above steps / guidance. I've already followed and checked the LED status light. It was STEADY ON... which believe means means a new User Interface Kit is required - am I understanding that correctly?
 

Jake

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Messages
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I've already followed and checked the LED status light. It was STEADY ON... which believe means means a new User Interface Kit is required - am I understanding that correctly?
Was all the electrical connections plugged into the machine control board underneath the dishwasher when you saw it STEADY ON?

If so, If the STATUS LED on the machine control board underneath the dishwasher is SOLID GREEN(STEADY ON), then its usually a bad UI(User Interface) Board.

Here's the UI(user interface) for your model: WD21X23462 Kit Svc Ui Top Logic

You can verify that will a multimeter. The UI operational voltage is output from the main control on connector J722 pin 2 black/green to pin 5 yellow/blue. If 13.5 Volts DC is there, replace the UI Board.

Before you replace the UI Board you MUST set the personality jumpers, the instructions always come with the new UI Board and shows you how to set the jumpers.

--->If the personality is not set by using the 4 jumpers, the buttons, LED’s or cycles will not function properly.

Snapshot_2 (1).jpg


Connector J722 is located on the metal casing side of the main control board.

J722.jpeg


It's the one on the left above the ethernet port.:)

Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

COLanders

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2022
Messages
9
Location
Denver, CO
Hi Jake - yes, all the electrical connections plugged into the machine control board underneath the dishwasher when I saw it STEADY ON.

I've already ordered a new UI - which is supposed to arrive today. I'll also be picking up a multimeter to confirm the voltage.

Thanks for the heads up re: setting the personality jumpers - I'll make sure to follow the instructions from the new UI Board.

Will keep you posted!
 

Jake

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Ok, sounds good, yes let us know what happens.

Jake
 

COLanders

Premium Member
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Denver, CO
Hi Jake - I was able to take off the door and access / replace the UI board last night. Prior to doing so, I set the personality of the UI board as directed in instructions (screen shot of my model number and corresponding settings). I then reassembled the door and reconnected the power.

The dishwasher seems to be "on" in that it beeps/and has some lights if we push various buttons... but is definitely not working as it should. Full disclosure ... in the process or putting the door back together I did break the connector tabs on the control panel cover (the plastic piece that has the button text / holes for the buttons to fit into) but I assume that shouldn't impact the overall operation - right?

Any further suggestions to check? I also didn't check the multi-meter yet - my local Ace was out of them, so will need to go to another store if that is still needed. Any help / suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
- Matt
 

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COLanders

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Location
Denver, CO
One last thing... in reviewing the above, I wanted to make sure how to test of the voltage as I'm gonna run to grab one now - I have found the J722 port. To test voltage as you indicate above, do I connect the voltage meter ends to the respective pins (on the main control) or insert into the white male connector piece (with the colored wires coming in) in your pic? I think I'm understanding it correctly I should be connecting to the pins (in the tan female part from your pic) but wanted to double check.

Thanks in advance!
 

Jake

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Take a photo of the jumpers you set on the new UI Board, I need to see if you have it correct.

Jake
 

COLanders

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Messages
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Location
Denver, CO
Attached are 2 photos of the UI board jumpers/instructions from the new board... hoping this helps. I've also include the old UI board (OLD = TOP, NEW = BOTTOM) for reference - I didn't really look at it before, but now see it actually doesn't have the same jumper pins? This looks to be right in terms of the settings per the instructions... but please let me know if I screwed up. Kinda hoping that
2022-01-29_18-05-41.jpg
2022-01-29_18-06-31.jpg
I did :)
 

Jake

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Ok, the jumpers look perfect!

The UI operational voltage is output from the main control on connector J722 pin 2 black/green to pin 5 yellow/blue. If 13.5 Volts DC is there, replace the UI Board.
Just remove that J722 connector and put your meter probes on pin 2 where the black/green went and pin 5 yellow/blue went and see if you have 13.5 Volts DC there.

Jake
 

COLanders

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Location
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Hey Jake - first, thank you for your help thus far, I really appreciate and feel like I owe you a beer or 2! lol. Attached is a pic of the voltage reading (showing 14).. which I believe is what it should be showing right? Is there anything else that I could have put back together wrong? I'm fairly confident I followed the directions right... but open to further items to investigate?
 

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Jake

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14 volts DC is perfect, so the UI Board must be bad, contact the place where you got it from and let them know and they should be able to send you another new one free of charge.

Jake
 

Jake

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Ok, sounds good.

Jake
 

COLanders

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Hey Jake - finally got the new UI board and installed... IT WORKS!!! Thank you so much for your help / guidance - it's greatly appreciated!

One last request if you know... I had broken the tabs on the UI panel (the plastic piece w/ the description of all the buttons / lights)... pic below. I saw a part number on the inside facing piece and googled - it looks the same, but haven't been able to confirm the results 100% match w/ my model number (GDT635HSJ2SS). Do you have a similar link to this replacement part as you shared for the UI board? Thanks again for all your help!
 

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Jake

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Hey Jake - finally got the new UI board and installed... IT WORKS!!!
Excellent @COLanders glad to hear the new UI Board fixed it.(y)

Thanks for the update!

One last request if you know... I had broken the tabs on the UI panel (the plastic piece w/ the description of all the buttons / lights)... pic below. I saw a part number on the inside facing piece and googled - it looks the same, but haven't been able to confirm the results 100% match w/ my model number (GDT635HSJ2SS). Do you have a similar link to this replacement part as you shared for the UI board?
This should be it:

Jake
 
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