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FIXED GE DPSB613ED2WW Won't start, relay clicks

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Wanderfreund

Premium Member
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Mar 8, 2020
Messages
13
Location
Southeast US
Model Number
DPSB613ED2WW
Brand
GE
Age
6-10 years
Hello,

I am having an issue with a GE Profile electric dryer that has progressively gotten worse to the point of the dryer not starting. Here are the symptoms and what I have done so far.
This dryer has a control panel with membrane buttons and relays rather than the hardware knob timer and start button. An issue developed where the dryer had power, but when selecting a time or program and hitting start, the dryer would not start immediately. The control panel would blink on and off, and you could hear a relay clicking behind the control panel. After a few clicks, the dryer would usually start up. Now, you can hear the relay click and see the panel lights go on and off, but the dryer does not start up. I have been able to test the belt switch and door switch, and both test good for continuity.

I am unable so far to find a schematic for this dryer, and there are several more sensors inside than I am used to. All are black plastic backed. I can follow up with a picture if needed. I have tried to test continuity and resistance through each sensor. Some, such as one I believe to be the control thermistor at the blower housing, test good through the black and red power wires but has no reading or open through the other two wires. Without a schematic and understanding which parts these are, I feel like I'm stabbing at black cats in a dark room. What I fear is that this issue is either the motor switch, which I do not know how to test without potentially electrocuting myself, or the panel itself. Both are expensive parts. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Edit: I did find the model page at GE here: products.geappliances.com/appliance/gea-specs/DPSB613EDWWand

The exploded diagrams at:
 
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rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Unfortunately I don't have the tech sheet for that model. I was hoping to get you into service mode using the tech sheet for a similar model. It won't work without those two pads. That's OK, we can do it the old fashion way.... lol. OK, we're troubleshooting the motor not working. All the sensors and thermostats are for the heating circuit so forget about them for now. First, look on the control board for the fuse and surge protector and check if the fuse is open or if the surge protector is discolored or burned.
fuse surge.jpg


The J2 connector on the board should have a gray wire. Connect your meter to the gray wire and any white (Neutral) wire. Push START and check for 120 VAC.

Measure the resistance of the motor windings. Start windings= 5Ω Run windings= 4Ω. Disconnect the motor wire connector. The run windings is M5 and the Start windings is M6. To measure the Start windings connect your meter to M4 and M6 then use a screwdriver or your finger the activate the centrifugal switch so it activates the motor switch then read the ohms. Do the same thing for the run windings M5
 

Wanderfreund

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Messages
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Alright. Thanks for pointing me down a path. I'm just seeing the replies, and I'll follow up after I get home from work and can do this. I'll likely have to unbolt the motor plate to really see what I'm doing.
 

Wanderfreund

Premium Member
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I don't see J2 on the board or schematic. The manuals BB posted are correct. I did run through the tests in the field service mode, and the motor test shows the exact symptoms. The relay clicks on and off, you hear short humming pulses from the motor, and the drum moves very slightly. Looks like neutral is Yellow on the board per the schematic and labeled 'N'. I don't see a fuse on the board or schematic, and the surge protector looks fine.

As a small experiment, I disconnected 2A, which runs from the start relay to the motor and was able to confirm that the relay isn't flopping and stays on when the start button is pressed.

I tested the resistance through the motor windings. I'm hoping I got this right. Connecting between the terminal with the red wire (should be M5) and Neutral (M4) shows about 2.2 ohms. Leaving the leads where they are, I work the centrifugal switch and the readings go to about 3.5 Ohms. I'm not sure if I've got the M5 and M6 terminals correct. Should they be the same terminal? I attached a picture showing the motor connector and the terminals on the motor. The second (red) on the connector is going to a terminal that also has the purple wire. The third (yellow and brown/yellow) goes to a terminal that also has the orange wire. The fourth terminal on the motor has a black wire. Unfortunately, I can't exactly tell which terminal is M6, just where M5 and M4 are.

I did measure between the fourth terminal with the black wire and the neutral. That reads about 2.2 Ohms then goes to 4.2 Ohms when I work the centrifugal switch.
 

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rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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The info I posted earlier is for a different machine. I wasn't sure if it was the same for your model and it's not so ignore it. Connect your meter to M4 (yellow or brown/yellow) and M5 (red) and measure the voltage when you start the machine.
 

Wanderfreund

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Thanks for your help so far. I checked voltage. When starting, because of the relay flapping like it is, it's too fast for my multimeter. The voltage coming out of 2A with the motor disconnected is constant 125V. The voltage at the other lead on the motor is also 125V. I actually found a used control board and put it in. I thought power control on the board was the issue, but it appears not. This sounds like either one of the thermostats acting funny or the motor itself. Same symptoms. When you press start or use the motor test with the field test, the start relay is flipping on and off, and the motor just barely moves. Flipping the start switch on the motor manually doesn't change anything. This was also an issue that started up and got progressively worse. It would pulse with the start relay clicking like it does and then start up. Now, it just pulses and clicks.
 

rickgburton

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..... because of the relay flapping like it is, it's too fast for my multimeter.
So no voltage at the motor. Here's the part you need:

This sounds like either one of the thermostats acting funny or ....
The element, thermostats, and sensors are all used in the heating circuit and not the motor circuit. If you disconnect the motor connector from the motor, does the relay still continue to click?

.... the motor itself.
With the motor connector disconnected from the motor, connect a test cord to M4 and M5. Does the motor run?
2 wire test cord.jpg
 

Wanderfreund

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I'll see if I can't make or find a test cord. Looking at the schematic again, it looks like M5 and M4 is all that's needed for the motor.

I replaced the board and have the same issue still. With the 2A lead (start switch relay output to motor) disconnected, which would be about the same as disconnecting the motor harness, the relay does not click on and off. It just clicks on. This is definitely happening only with load.
 

Wanderfreund

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I hooked up a test cord to the motor, and it runs just fine. I tested and made sure it also worked through the harness and belt switch. At this point, I'm taking guesses. I unplugged the common point on the bias relays with no effect. I noticed one thing. I tried testing resistance through the thermister, which says it should read about 100k ohms at 25C or 77F, and I can't get any reading through it. The field service mode is showing that it's okay, though. It is actually possible that I got a bad board in.
 

Wanderfreund

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I'm referring to the thermistor at the drum housing connected by blue wires to pins 5 and 6 on the CN4 connector just right of the transformer on the power board. My meter gets no reading through it. I'll go ahead and arrange to return the board as well.
 

Wanderfreund

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Alright, I definitely apologize for not heeding what you were saying about the sensors being for the heating circuits. I've got a new motor coming. The resistance measurements in the motor coils and the fact that it tested fine with a test cord threw me off. These boards with relays are likely a lot more sensitive to a load that's out of spec than the old mechanical switches. I'll let you know what happens, but it only makes sense to me that you called it right.
 

Wanderfreund

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Well, it's not the motor. Exact same symptoms. I had even pulled the terminal block cover off the back and verified that each leg is getting 125 Volts. I am at a complete loss as to what this could be. There is one part left that hasn't tested good, and it's that thermistor. I'm still going by your understanding that it would be part of the heating circuit. It's also the only part that is not clear where it goes on the board schematic. The schematic just shows it connected to the board, and that's about it. There's no information about the actual circuit it's part of.
 
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