FIXED GE Dryer DCVH680GJ2WW not running, failed t07 and t08 error test

[lostinacointoss]

Model Number

DCVH680GJ2WW

Brand

GE

Age

More than 10 years

Greetings! I own a GE DCVH680GJ2WW gas dryer that ran a drying cycle with no heat a few days ago, and when attempting to troubleshoot today, is no longer running - i.e. the unit makes no noise, the drum does not spin at all even though the digital panel displays "DRYING." The door makes a clicking sound so it is locking as it should, but it makes no noise and doesn't run.

When I ran diagnostics test, t07 and t08 both failed to raise in temperature. These tests held at a steady 70-71 degrees.

I am seeking advice on what needs to be tested, repaired or replaced - Perhaps it is not worth repairing the unit myself, as it is quite old. But if it is worth repairing myself I would like to know how this can be accomplished. Thanks to anyone, in advance, for your time and consideration in responding to my questions!

 

[Jake]

Could be the belt switch, door switch, or power board. Make sure you disconnect power to the dryer before taking it apart and ohm testing.

Here's that Belt/Idler pulley switch for your model:
Switch WD21X10261


Watch this video to access it:



Watch this video to ohm test that switch:



Here's the door switch for your model:
GE Dryer Door Switch WE4M415


Watch this video to access it:



Watch this video to ohm test it:



If the belt switch and door switch both ohm test good, then it is a bad power board.

Page #43 shows how to access, remove, and replace the power board: https://www.applianceblog.com/manuals/31-9136_GEFDryer.pdf

Here's the power control board for your model:
GE WE4M489 Main Pwr Board Asm

 

[lostinacointoss]

Thank you for the quick response. After taking everything apart and ohm testing the door switch (operable), I got down to remove the belt and realized it has snapped. I will order a new belt and replace - Hopefully that is the only issue. Any further considerations as I replace this?

I did notice while taking it apart that the back panel on the door is pretty worn out from years of wear & tear. Is it worth replacing while I have the machine disassembled? I realize I could probably replace everything now if I wanted to, lol. THANKS AGAIN!!!

 

[Jake]

I got down to remove the belt and realized it has snapped. I will order a new belt and replace

Good find, that would be the cause of the dryer not running.

Here's the belt for your model, in case others need it too:

GE WE03X29897 Belt Drive (AP7012633) - AppliancePartsPros.com

Belt drive WE03X29897 / AP7012633 made by GE

click.linksynergy.com

I did notice while taking it apart that the back panel on the door is pretty worn out from years of wear & tear. Is it worth replacing while I have the machine disassembled?

Here's your door parts diagram: Parts for GE DCVH680GJ2WW: Door Parts
Are you referring to the door gasket #610?

Here's your front panel parts diagram: Parts for GE DCVH680GJ2WW: Front Panel Parts
Or are you referring to #313 #315 #316?

 

[lostinacointoss]

Thanks for sharing those diagrams - Super helpful! I was referring to what looks like parts #311 and #313...and then it looks like parts #315 and #316 may be broken or completely missing altogether. #311 and #313 are very worn from years of wear and tear. I suppose I could use the parts as-is and replace them later if needed - They weren't too difficult to remove. But it looks like the price tag to replace all those parts is ~$300, 1/3 the cost of a new dryer. Not sure that juice is worth the squeeze just to keep the unit maintained and running. Thinking maybe I just run it into the ground as is and replace once it finally kicks the bucket.

 

[Jake]

Ok, sounds good, yes I agree.

 

[lostinacointoss]

Alright…so I replaced the belt, put her all back together and fired it up. Almost literally. The belt is working, everything “looks” good but now it’s getting super hot. The front of the unit is physically hot to the touch. Not sure what I messed up on the unit while I was fixing it. Any ideas? Even on the low setting it seems like it doesn’t know to stop heating. Thanks in advance again for any advice.

 

[Jake]

Put the dryer on the AIR DRY/NO HEAT cycle and see if it still gets hot.

 

[lostinacointoss]

Put the dryer on the AIR DRY/NO HEAT cycle and see if it still gets hot.

I went to start it this afternoon and now it won't power on. The breaker was tripped so I switched it off, then back on. The washing machine on that breaker started right up, the dryer did not. I tried another outlet, no luck. So now it's not powering on. Thiiiiiis close to shopping for a new dryer, I'm puzzled.

 

[Jake]

Did you make sure you reassembled the dryer properly? something don't add up here.

 

[lostinacointoss]

Did you make sure you reassembled the dryer properly? something don't add up here.

Figured out the power issue. The UI board connection came loose. I tightened the connection and now the dryer turns on. Apologies for the confusion.

Running the dryer in No Heat mode and it is running properly, not giving off any heat.

 

[Jake]

Figured out the power issue. The UI board connection came loose. I tightened the connection and now the dryer turns on. Apologies for the confusion.

No worries, that can happen.

Running the dryer in No Heat mode and it is running properly, not giving off any heat.

That's good, so its heating and normal again, in normal cycles? Not overheating?

 

[lostinacointoss]

No worries, that can happen.


That's good, so its heating and normal again, in normal cycles? Not overheating?

I am not sure, but I feel like it's definitely overheating. This morning I ran the dryer on the low heat setting, and the front of the dryer gets very hot to the touch. The dryer hadn't done this previously to my replacing the belt.

Where it gets hot to the touch is on the front of the unit, just below the line where there is a break in the unit between the upper 2/3 and lower 1/3 portion of the unit (where it looks like the lower 1/3 would be a drawer, but it's actually not

I placed a temperature probe (Thermaworks meat thermometer) on the unit where it is hot and the reading came back at 130 degrees F. So that's how hot the front of the unit is getting.

I also place the thermometer at the rear exhaust at the reading was about the same, 130 degrees F.

So 2 questions I have, is that a normal reading for low setting? Also, is it normal that the front of the unit itself should be getting hot to the touch like that? Especially if it is on the high setting, my concern would be one of my kids touches it and gets burned. Thanks again for your time and responses, in advance!

 

[Jake]

I also place the thermometer at the rear exhaust at the reading was about the same, 130 degrees F.

So 2 questions I have, is that a normal reading for low setting?

Yes, 130 degrees is normal for low.

Also, is it normal that the front of the unit itself should be getting hot to the touch like that? Especially if it is on the high setting

Yes, because the hot air channels down filter duct assembly and out the back of the dryer exhaust. Make sure the dryer exhaust to where it vents outside is clean and clear of lint and good air flow outside.

 

[lostinacointoss]

Ah, got it. So then I think we're good to go! I think another reason why it might seem 'odd' for the dryer to seem so hot is that I have been running it with only 1 wet washcloth in the dryer. Typically, we are running it with a load of cold, wet clothes, which may cool down the air/unit.

It is making a loud squeaking sound, which I believe may be where the bolt (for lack of a better term) on the back of the drum inserts into the back of the unit. Is it safe to attempt to spray some lubricant into that area? I assume that's not a good idea, as typical spray lubricant is highly flammable.

Thanks again!

 

[Jake]

It is making a loud squeaking sound, which I believe may be where the bolt (for lack of a better term) on the back of the drum inserts into the back of the unit. Is it safe to attempt to spray some lubricant into that area? I assume that's not a good idea, as typical spray lubricant is highly flammable.

Not a good idea, I agree.

Sounds like the rear bearing is worn out too.

Here's the rear bearing assembly for your model:
WE25M40 Rear Drum Bearing Kit


Here's the video:

 

[lostinacointoss]

Thanks so much! I may or may not have the ambition to take it apart once again to replace that part. Either way, appreciate all of the solid advice!!!

 

[Jake]

Glad to help!