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GE Front load washer WBVH5300K1WW won't fill with water or spin

poncho-mike

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2020
Messages
8
Location
27523
Model Number
WBVH5300K1WW
Brand
GE
Age
6-10 years
I have a GE front load washer model # WBVH5300K1WW I bought new in mid-2011. It has worked fine until recently when my wife said that it would not fill with water. The first thing I checked was the inlet valve. The solenoid were checked on an electrical meter, and resistance was within normal specifications. I disconnected the washer hoses from the inlet valve and connected a short length of tubing to the solenoids, which I ran into a bucket. I then powered the valves with input directly from a line cord I made. Water flowed through all of the valves, so I know my water inlet valve is good.

Next, I ran the leads from my electrical meter into the back of the inlet valve solenoids and tried to start the washer. It never registered any voltage on any of the solenoids.

So next, I unplugged the washer from the power source, then reconnected power. Shortly after I start the wash cycle, the motor will spin the drum forward about one revolution, then backward for about one revolution, then stop. There is also a loud noise that I think is the waste water pump starts and is constantly. I moved the waste water outlet to the bucket, and re-tried to start the wash cycle a couple of times. The washer will spit a little bit of water out shortly into wash cycle.

There are only two people in our household, so the washer isn't heavily used. I'd like some suggestions on what I should try before I buy a new one.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Let's check for any error codes. Follow these steps below to enter the service mode.

1. Close the door.
2. Clear current cycles by pressing the power button. Make sure the screen is blank before attempting to enter the service mode.
3. Disconnect power to washer for at least 30 seconds.
4. Reconnect the power and within 30 seconds of reconnecting power complete the next step.
5. Press Signal-Delay-Signal-Delay.

When you enter the service mode, t01 is displayed. This test mode has no diagnostic purpose. The main board is designed to work on multiple models and this mode is for setting the model. For the most part, you shouldn’t have to worry about this test mode when diagnosing. To enter this test mode, press start/pause and to exit press power.

Error Codes Test Mode--->To enter the error code test mode, rotate the control knob until t02 is displayed in the control panel then press start/pause to enter the test mode. This is where all error codes are stored. Once you have entered the test mode, you will see the most recent error code that the control has flagged. If you press start/pause you will see the next recent error code. If you continue to press start/pause you can view up to the ten most recent error codes. Most of the time there will be only one or two.

Once you have diagnosed the washer it is very important to clear the error codes. If you don’t clear the error codes, when you have another problem the old error codes will still be there from an issue that has been resolved. To clear the error codes press and hold start/pause. Press power to exit this test mode and the display should go back to t02.

To exit the service mode press Signal-Delay-Signal-Delay.

Let us know what error codes you get.

Jake
 

poncho-mike

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2020
Messages
8
Location
27523
There is only one error. It is E66.

Where can I find a list of the diagnostic tests and error codes?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
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Messages
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Here: http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/GE_front_load_washer.html

E66/E67 Water Temperature Sensor Errors

To check this on a GE front load washer, access the thermistor by removing the bottom front panel of the washer to access the water heater and thermistor. The water heater and thermistor are located at the bottom of the tub. Disconnect the wires from the thermistor and test ohms across the two terminals. At room temperature, the thermistor should be approximately 12K ohms. If the sensor is open, shorted or way off of the 12K ohms mark, replace it.

heaterthermistor.jpg


Here's the thermistor for your model:

Jake
 

poncho-mike

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2020
Messages
8
Location
27523
First off, thanks for your help.

This is actually my son's washer. The washer has the thermistor plug, but the other two terminals (which I think are a heater) aren't present. The plug is an insulation displacement connector, and one of the wires had broken loose. I took the cover off the IDC, pulled the broken lead off, and reinstalled the leads. I wasn't sure if I was making a good connection after replacing the connector, so I tested the voltage across the terminals. I expected to see either 24V or 110V, but I measured about 19V across the terminals. What voltage should I read? I also measured the resistance across the thermistor, and it was within normal parameters.

After the repair, I cleared the codes and restarted the washer. It still didn't run. I let it go a few minutes into the cycle, but no water ever ran in. I put the washer into diagnostic mode, and found an E30 code. I cleared that error code, removed the drain pump. I checked for clogs, but it was clean. The owner's manual talks about cleaning a filter. I couldn't find a filter on the discharge pump. Where is it?

I ran a T06 test. The water began filling and stopped just at the bottom of the tub level. I hit start, and it continued filling and displayed nl. I hit the start button again, and it filled to about the half-way point. At that time, the discharge pump started and it was pumping water out as it was running in. Per the manual, it should have displayed an OF (overflow), shut the solenoids off, and pumped the water out. Any thoughts on this?

I ran the T07 test, water filled and it showed the water temp.

I also ran through T10, T11, and T12. All completed fine.

What is a T13? The manual called it a EOL test, but doesn't specify what it should do.

I've tried several times and keep getting a E30 code. When the washer first starts, the pump discarges any water out the exhaust, but there is a humming noise that I think is the pump. The pump works well, during the T06 test we discharged into a tub, the output was strong.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks

Mike
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
112,954
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
If you get E30 and the drain pump is fine, then its possibly a false positive from the control board, but at 9 years its best to save the repair money for a new machine. The good news is most all appliances stores have great sales today and all this week with their annual 4th of July sales.

Here's the control board for your model:
GE WH12X10468 Control Board Asm


Jake
 

poncho-mike

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Messages
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Location
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The more I looked into it, the more I suspected the control board. The only thing I can't explain is why the T06 test failed to complete. The discharge pump would kick in before it reached the overflow limit. Roughly where is the overflow limit? Half full? 3/4 full, all the way to the top?

If buying a new front load washer, do you have any recommendations?
 

Jake

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Messages
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Wait, I just remembered about the pressure switch hose.

I just found this thread where 2 members said they found a hole in the pressure switch hose that caused this same issue: FIXED: WCVH6800J1WW Washer stops mid cycle

WH41X10129 HOSE - PRESSURE SWITCH

Check your pressure switch hose for a hole in it, that's related to the t06 test.

Jake
 

poncho-mike

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Would the pressure hose leak water if this were the problem? I don't remember seeing any water leaking when running the tests.
 

Jake

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Not necessarily, the pressure switch hose holds air, not water.

Jake
 

poncho-mike

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Messages
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Location
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Thanks,

I have some new results. Since the issue seems related to the pressure switch, I decided to remove the control panel and check the connections to the pressure switch. I was concerned that maybe one of the IDC connectors was close to breaking, so I cut the ends off and re-terminated the IDC.

This time when I ran T06, everything was OK until the water level was about halfway up the door. The display never flashed OF, but the discharge pump started running very erratically. It almost sounded like a car that had dropped a rod on one cylinder. I think it was starting and stopping then restaring at a high frequency. I let it do this for about 10 seconds, then hit the power button. The pump started running normally, and emptied the drum fairly quickly. It went back to t06 with no errors showing.

I have a vacuum pump, so I can test the hose tomorrow. How long should it hold a vacuum?

I also removed the control board and inspected all of the wire terminals and connectors. None of the terminals appear to have gotten hot, nor did the board show any signs of damage.

Any thoughts on the erratic discharge pump operation?

Mike
 

Jake

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I have a vacuum pump, so I can test the hose tomorrow. How long should it hold a vacuum?
For a long time Mike.

Any thoughts on the erratic discharge pump operation?
If you have a steady 120 volts to the drain pump, then it should not be erratic, it should stay running for as long the control boards sends 120 volts to it.

Make sure after you check the pressure switch hose you have no water in the tub when you reconnect it, and blow through it from the top when you have it connected down below to the air dome.

Jake
 

poncho-mike

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Joined
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Messages
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Location
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Thanks for all of your help.

The hose has no leaks. I plugged the end at the pressure switch and pulled a vacuum, and hooked a vacuum pump to the bottom end of the hose. I drew a vacuum and it held steady.

I think it is the pressure switch. When I touch an ohmeter across the terminals for the overflow connections, I find the switch is touchy and the resistance is erratic. But I work with elecronics and there are some irregularities.

When running T05, the pump doesn't shut off after 60 seconds. When running T06, the pump chatters and never displays OF, keeps running in water. The pressure switch is about $60 for a non-GE brand, I thought about calling around and seeing if I could find a used one to test out. I'm OK with $60 for a switch, but if it does turn out to be a control board, that's almost $300.

My wife works at a store that sells home supplies. They have a scratch and dent GE model GRW450SPMDG for about $600. Any thoughts?
 

Jake

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GRW450SPMDG does not pull up as good, that's way too much money Mike.

The 4th of July Sales are going on all this week.

Go to Lowes.com Homedepot.com and look at their new ones. I'd stay far away from GE, their quality has gone way south in recent years.

We recommend Maytag, Whirlpool, Amana, Speed Queen.

Jake
 

poncho-mike

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Messages
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Location
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My mistake. The scracth and dent washer is a GE GFW450SPMDG for $579. It has one dent on the top panel. I searched the web and it seems to be rated fairly well, but I know GE has taken it on the chin over the last few years.

We can get a discount on in-store merchandise through my wife's employer, except for the scratch and dent sales. They carry GE, Samsung, and LG, so I'd like to stick with those brands if possible. Any thoughts on those?

I'm not happy with LG, I bought a LED TV and it had a couple of problems which were fixed under warranty. It finally bit the dust after outlasting the warranty by just a few months. I have one Samsung LCD TV that is ancient and two Samsung monitors that have been around forever. So far I have nothing bad to say about them.
 

Jake

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I myself wouldn't go near any of those, In my house I own Maytag Washer, Maytag Range, Maytag Dishwasher, Whirlpool Dryer, Whirlpool Refrigerator and no problems with any of them.

If you get GE, LG, or Samsung, just make sure you buy the 5 year extended warranty from the manufacturer, not from a 3rd party.

Jake
 
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