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GE Front Loading Washer WCVH6800J0MS will MOSTLY not spin

dhelias

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2020
Messages
3
Location
Halifax, NS, Canada
Model Number
WCVH6800J0MS
Brand
GE
Age
More than 10 years
Hello,

I have a front loading washing machine that will drain, but will mostly not spin or agitate. Here's how things went down:

The washing machine went severely off balance one day. It's in a small laundry room and has a dryer stacked on top. It drifted so much I could no longer open the door and had to crawl in through the window to turn it off and push it back into place. After that it ran a few more times, the last time everything was soaked and it was starting and stopping. I cleared the filter and drained it etc and restarted the wash, but again everything was super soaked. I realized it was not agitating. I checked the error codes and all that was there was the not draining code E31. I cleared the codes and ran some of the tests. T10 and T11 produced nothing, no motion, just "TT" for T10 and "0" for T11. My machine doesn't have T14.

This is when I started to delve deeper. I tried (and have since tried again and again) a drain and spin cycle and the tub spins one way for a few revolutions very slowly, then the other way for the same. The door unlocks, then locks again and then it tumbles for about 10 seconds, stops, and the draining process starts. Running some other washes it tumbled once or twice at start, then never again.

I also read that the door lock commonly fails so I bought and installed a new one, hoping this would be the magic bullet. It was not.

I went deeper and removed panels. The belt is fine. When I removed the back panel I saw one of the shock absorbers busted out of the plastic sheath. I have ordered a new one, but haven't received it yet.

I went out and bought a multimeter and tested the motor today. The numbers were not ideal, but not sure if they are in the range of failure. I got 18 ohms between white and blue, 9 between blue and red, 9 between red and white.

I am also getting 125 volts when testing on the inverter circuit. Basically When it is off it is "0." I put it into test mode and it goes up to 125 before I even put it in T10 or T11 mode. When I leave the test wires in for a regular wash, it is at 125 whenever the lock is engaged, ) otherwise.

I cannot easily access the control board without taking the dryer down, which would not be ideal for the small space that is in.

Is there anything else I should check? I checked all the drain hoses, no obstructions and the machine drains fine. I was thinking it was the power inverter, but the initial spinning makes me question that. Doesn't it have to do with the busted shock absorber? Is there a sensor that is being triggered? Is there an off balance load breaker that needs to be reset? Is it the OHM readings on the motor the cause of concern?

Any help, advice or suggestions would be appreciated. Trying to decide on calling in a repair service, which will cost money up front on top of an expensive part, and I am in Canada where the parts cost about twice as much in the U.S., so might just be easier to buy a new washer/dryer and donate the perfectly good dryer to a charity.

Thank you!
 

dhelias

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2020
Messages
3
Location
Halifax, NS, Canada
Here's a small update. I jerry rigged the broken shock absorber back together and put that back in place just to see if that would do anything. No change.

I also went searching deeper for people with issues on the same model and saw some posts about an air hose that gets pinched and broken so I ran the T6 fill test and it went through everything up to nL, but it never hit OF and drained. Water filled to nearly halfway of the main door window and I noticed water eventually dripping into the bottom of the washer and I turned off the test and forced it to drain.

Does anyone think this is related to the no spin problem, or just another issue further pushing me into buy a new washer column?

Thanks!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
112,952
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
I am in Canada where the parts cost about twice as much in the U.S., so might just be easier to buy a new washer/dryer and donate the perfectly good dryer to a charity.
Seems you got multiple problems going on here, it's best to save the repair money for a new washer/dryer set. It would cost more to fix your washer than its worth.

The average life of appliances now is only 8-12 years.

Jake
 

dhelias

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2020
Messages
3
Location
Halifax, NS, Canada
Thank you for your opinion. I have been struggling with the idea of just tossing something that can be fixed, but it is comforting to have a professional encouraging me to move on, especially when the inverter alone is nearly $600 up here.

Thanks again!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
112,952
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, no sense in nickel and diming it to death when prices are that high.:)

Jake
 
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