dhelias
Premium Member
- Model Number
- WCVH6800J0MS
- Brand
- GE
- Age
- More than 10 years
Hello,
I have a front loading washing machine that will drain, but will mostly not spin or agitate. Here's how things went down:
The washing machine went severely off balance one day. It's in a small laundry room and has a dryer stacked on top. It drifted so much I could no longer open the door and had to crawl in through the window to turn it off and push it back into place. After that it ran a few more times, the last time everything was soaked and it was starting and stopping. I cleared the filter and drained it etc and restarted the wash, but again everything was super soaked. I realized it was not agitating. I checked the error codes and all that was there was the not draining code E31. I cleared the codes and ran some of the tests. T10 and T11 produced nothing, no motion, just "TT" for T10 and "0" for T11. My machine doesn't have T14.
This is when I started to delve deeper. I tried (and have since tried again and again) a drain and spin cycle and the tub spins one way for a few revolutions very slowly, then the other way for the same. The door unlocks, then locks again and then it tumbles for about 10 seconds, stops, and the draining process starts. Running some other washes it tumbled once or twice at start, then never again.
I also read that the door lock commonly fails so I bought and installed a new one, hoping this would be the magic bullet. It was not.
I went deeper and removed panels. The belt is fine. When I removed the back panel I saw one of the shock absorbers busted out of the plastic sheath. I have ordered a new one, but haven't received it yet.
I went out and bought a multimeter and tested the motor today. The numbers were not ideal, but not sure if they are in the range of failure. I got 18 ohms between white and blue, 9 between blue and red, 9 between red and white.
I am also getting 125 volts when testing on the inverter circuit. Basically When it is off it is "0." I put it into test mode and it goes up to 125 before I even put it in T10 or T11 mode. When I leave the test wires in for a regular wash, it is at 125 whenever the lock is engaged, ) otherwise.
I cannot easily access the control board without taking the dryer down, which would not be ideal for the small space that is in.
Is there anything else I should check? I checked all the drain hoses, no obstructions and the machine drains fine. I was thinking it was the power inverter, but the initial spinning makes me question that. Doesn't it have to do with the busted shock absorber? Is there a sensor that is being triggered? Is there an off balance load breaker that needs to be reset? Is it the OHM readings on the motor the cause of concern?
Any help, advice or suggestions would be appreciated. Trying to decide on calling in a repair service, which will cost money up front on top of an expensive part, and I am in Canada where the parts cost about twice as much in the U.S., so might just be easier to buy a new washer/dryer and donate the perfectly good dryer to a charity.
Thank you!
I have a front loading washing machine that will drain, but will mostly not spin or agitate. Here's how things went down:
The washing machine went severely off balance one day. It's in a small laundry room and has a dryer stacked on top. It drifted so much I could no longer open the door and had to crawl in through the window to turn it off and push it back into place. After that it ran a few more times, the last time everything was soaked and it was starting and stopping. I cleared the filter and drained it etc and restarted the wash, but again everything was super soaked. I realized it was not agitating. I checked the error codes and all that was there was the not draining code E31. I cleared the codes and ran some of the tests. T10 and T11 produced nothing, no motion, just "TT" for T10 and "0" for T11. My machine doesn't have T14.
This is when I started to delve deeper. I tried (and have since tried again and again) a drain and spin cycle and the tub spins one way for a few revolutions very slowly, then the other way for the same. The door unlocks, then locks again and then it tumbles for about 10 seconds, stops, and the draining process starts. Running some other washes it tumbled once or twice at start, then never again.
I also read that the door lock commonly fails so I bought and installed a new one, hoping this would be the magic bullet. It was not.
I went deeper and removed panels. The belt is fine. When I removed the back panel I saw one of the shock absorbers busted out of the plastic sheath. I have ordered a new one, but haven't received it yet.
I went out and bought a multimeter and tested the motor today. The numbers were not ideal, but not sure if they are in the range of failure. I got 18 ohms between white and blue, 9 between blue and red, 9 between red and white.
I am also getting 125 volts when testing on the inverter circuit. Basically When it is off it is "0." I put it into test mode and it goes up to 125 before I even put it in T10 or T11 mode. When I leave the test wires in for a regular wash, it is at 125 whenever the lock is engaged, ) otherwise.
I cannot easily access the control board without taking the dryer down, which would not be ideal for the small space that is in.
Is there anything else I should check? I checked all the drain hoses, no obstructions and the machine drains fine. I was thinking it was the power inverter, but the initial spinning makes me question that. Doesn't it have to do with the busted shock absorber? Is there a sensor that is being triggered? Is there an off balance load breaker that needs to be reset? Is it the OHM readings on the motor the cause of concern?
Any help, advice or suggestions would be appreciated. Trying to decide on calling in a repair service, which will cost money up front on top of an expensive part, and I am in Canada where the parts cost about twice as much in the U.S., so might just be easier to buy a new washer/dryer and donate the perfectly good dryer to a charity.
Thank you!
