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FIXED GE GLD4408R00WW Dishwasher Won't Start

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fletch101

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2022
Messages
5
Location
Central Florida
Model Number
GLD4408R00WW
Brand
GE
Age
More than 10 years
GE GLD4408R00WW Dishwasher recently stopped working. It has power and I reset breaker with no change. When closing the door, it latches and beeps but when selecting a cycle it doesn't start. However, if I wait I can hear clicking noises after a few minutes almost like the control board thinks it's going through the cycle. Also, if I open it after that it will beep after a minute or so like it does to remind you a cycle was disrupted. I tested the interlock switches with multimeter and they looked okay. Next I swapped out the control board with a used one and get the same results.

The latest thing I tried today when leaving it powered on when I had the door apart was that if I manually pushed in the interlock plunger, then it starts running. So it appears when it closes/latches, the plunger is not getting fully engaged but I can't see any physical problem that would cause this. It beeps when latched and feels firmly latched. I tried lifting up and down on the door a bit and opening/closing the door many times with no luck, but as soon as I take the door apart and press in the plunger it will start. Plunger and spring look okay. Any recommendations on what else to try? Thanks
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
131,532
Location
Redmond, Oregon
You checked BOTH door switches? if one or both are bad the dishwasher will not start. If the door switches are fine next check the door handle actuator.

Your model takes two door switches.

Here's another person that had a similar problem:

Here's the door switch for your model:
Interlock Switch WD21X10224


Watch this video to ohm test them:

Here's the door handle actuator for your model:
WD13X10045 Handle Actuator


There is a "HOW TO" video in the part link.

Here's the door switch spring for your model:
WD03X10026 Spring Plunger


Here's the door switch plunger for your model:
WD12X10271 Plunger Sw Interlock


Jake
 

fletch101

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2022
Messages
5
Location
Central Florida
Yes, both switches were checked to be okay and I just rechecked both again today. The handle actuator looks okay also.

Grasping at straws, I removed the black plastic air diverter and the metallic shield that covers the control board to rule out if those were preventing the inner and outer door assembly from tightly closing and to my surprise it started running. I then put them both back in place and it wouldn't start again. Narrowing it down, I found that it looks like it doesn't start when the metallic shield is covering the control board. Now I'm wondering if the shield could be touching something on the board and shorting it out. Is the shield required or is it just a safety cover so you don't accidentally touch board components? If not truly necessary, I'm thinking of just leaving it off if this makes the dishwasher work again. Appreciate any thoughts on is. Thanks.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
131,532
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Narrowing it down, I found that it looks like it doesn't start when the metallic shield is covering the control board. Now I'm wondering if the shield could be touching something on the board and shorting it out.
That logical to me too.

Is the shield required or is it just a safety cover so you don't accidentally touch board components?
That's a good question, its been over 10 years since I worked on this older GE, and I can't remember.

Just leave it off and see what happens.

Jake
 

fletch101

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2022
Messages
5
Location
Central Florida
It ran fine on the first run, but two days later I tried to run again and it didn't start, so the metallic shield removal doesn't appear to be the culprit. After messing with it some more, I now think it has something to do with the cover on the switches and plunger. The cover is somewhat loose and removes easily without having to pry the clips. Maybe this is allowing some play in the plunger and it's not fully pressing in the button on one of the switches. I tried taping the cover down tight and was able to run another load, but it looks like it is somewhat intermittent. I'm wondering if I should just replace the plunger since they are fairly cheap.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Aug 24, 2004
Messages
131,532
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Yes, I'm thinking its the plunger as well.

Jake
 

fletch101

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2022
Messages
5
Location
Central Florida
Finally got this resolved after some more trial and error. I had to replace the switch on the right side. It would pass continuity check when I pressed in the button with my finger, but with the plunger it would not fully press it in to make the connection. I was able to recreate it by lightly pressing the button and seeing no continuity. The new switch I put in is much more sensitive and engages every time now. Thanks for your help in troubleshooting this.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
131,532
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Excellent, glad to hear the right side door switch fixed it.(y)

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 
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