GE GSH22JFXMWW extended thaw when turning on ice maker

[mr00us]

Model Number

GSH22JFXMWW

Brand

GE

Age

6-10 years

I have a GE GSH22JFXMWW side by side refrigerator. So, a few weeks back we saw puddle of water under in the freezer section, the ice melted and the freezer fan was blowing warm air. I changed the top temperature sensor and results were still the same. After a few trial and error, I notice that when ever I turn the ice maker on, everything stays thawed for a long time, like 10-15 hours and then it gets frozen for some time and stays thawed again. When on, it does not make much ice either, just a few turds and then everything thaws.

Turning off the ice maker seems to work and the freezer stays cool and things stay frozen. So we have left the ice maker off. I am willing to DIY till it screams before throwing in the towel. Any input is apreciated.

THANKS!!!!!

 

[mr00us]

Update on my GE GSH22JFXMWW side by side refrigerator. I replaced both thermistors (coil and the bottom one) and the thermostat. Before replacing them, I tested them for resistance to the best of my abilities and readings looked ok. Read some more on workings too. The heater kicks in fine, stays hot for about 10 minutes and melts the ice. After that for about 30 minutes, freezer remains silent. The fan close to compressor stays on. Then after 30 minutes of silence, the freezer fan kicks in and the air feels cold, but not cold enough to freeze things. All this time, there is a big puddle of water by the refrigerator from the melted ice so I have to place a towel for water from spreading. All this while, I am being yelled at for not buying a new refrigerator and I turned off the ice maker eventually because icemaker seems to be working fine and making ice nicely. I leave it alone and in a few hours, I see ice on the evaporator coil and freezer works fine for another cycle till thaw cycle kicks in.

An interesting observation though. after replacing 2 thermistors and thermostat, I observed that the top 2 coils do not have any ice over them. Rest all have ice on them. Like the gas is not turning into liquid till it reaches third or fourth coil from top.

Appreciate any insight from any experts here.

 

[mr00us]

Another Update: As you can see, weekends are best time to troubleshoot .
The defrost cycle started some 2 hours ago, the ice melted fine, heater stopped on time. The fans came on fine but the compressor did not (yet) get the signal to start so the fan is simply blowing air in the freezer. I know it will start sometime but it takes too long to kick in.

 

[Jake]

Put your hand on the top of your compressor and see if its super hot, that you can't keep your hand on it.

Sounds like your compressor might be the problem.

Also, unplug the refrigerator and ohm test the compressor pins, with your meter set on the lowest (200) ohms scale you should have between 6-10 ohms between any two pins.

Jake

 

[mr00us]

Put your hand on the top of your compressor and see if its super hot, that you can't keep your hand on it.

Sounds like your compressor might be the problem.

Also, unplug the refrigerator and ohm test the compressor pins, with your meter set on the lowest (200) ohms scale you should have between 6-10 ohms between any two pins.

Jake, many thanks for the response. I now can say I have seen the end of the google researching this issue.

The compressor (when it runs) is warm but I can keep my hand on it. Per your advice, I tested the Ohms between pins and that looked ok (8 ohms or so). While I had it open, I tested DC coming in the Invertor board- the thingy that plugs in to the compressor and it showed 8.5(ish). Nutshell situation is, after defrost cycle or after powering up, the compressor somehow starts at its own sweet time. The fans are all turning on fine but since compressor wont turn on, blows room temperature air.

 

[Jake]

Then check for 120 Volts AC between the orange wire and the black wire on the inverter. If the voltage is correct, use your meter and check for 3-6 Volts DC between the two smaller wires in the inverter. If you do then the inverter is bad.
(click to enlarge)


Here's the inverter board for your model:

GE WR49X10283 Inverter Board - AppliancePartsPros.com

Inverter Board WR49X10283 / AP5669522 made by GE

click.linksynergy.com

Jake

 

[mr00us]

Photos

 

[mr00us]

So, I did everything. Even scratched the floor so now I have to suffer the consequences

1.ohm test the compressor pins = 8.1ohms between all 3 pins
2. AC between the orange wire and the black wire on the inverter= 122.9 Volts
3. between the two smaller wires in the inverter=

-1 (open circuit) while on 200m DCV. This plays between 8.5 and -1 (open circuit) depending on its mood.​

- 15.2 DCA (images attached)​

 

[Jake]

Your meter should not be on 200m. It should be on 20 Volts DC.

Jake

 

[mr00us]

Ah!!!. Thanks for catching. On 20 Volts DC I get 8.41-8.45 among 5 readings taken.

 

[mr00us]

If it matters, the sticker on the compressor says that it is a variable speed compressor.

 

[Jake]

Ok, so between the two smaller wires in the inverter you are getting 8.41-8.45 Volts DC?

Then it sounds like you will need a new inverter.

Jake

 

[mr00us]

I checked the J15 on the main board and I see 5.4 DCV there. Then when I checked the lead right before where it plugs in to the invertor, it is 8.5 DVC. This lead is one of the 2 that goes in to the invertor. Shouldn't these both be same (= 5.4 as on board)?

Board (J15 = 5.4 DVC) --------> Before plugging into Invertor (= 8.5 DVC) ---------> Invertor ----> Compressor.
-------------------------------> 122 Volts AC----------------------------------------->Invertor

Jake, once again, many thanks for your time and help. I have taken all these machines for granted all this time. There is so much that goes on there.

 

[Jake]

You need to leave the inverter connector connected while taking that DC Volt test, then it should read 3-6 Volts DC.

Jake

 

[mr00us]

Thanks Jake. It is 7.5-7.8 DCA with invertor connected to compressor. I left it on overnight and there is frost around coils.

 

[Jake]

A thin layer of Frost on ALL the evaporator coils from TOP to BOTTOM?

Jake

 

[mr00us]

Top 3 of the coils are not frozen but rest all the way to bottom are. Has not thawed today as well (yet).

 

[Jake]

Top 3 of the coils are not frozen

That indicates a sealed system problem.

Time to go refrigerator shopping.

Jake

 

[mr00us]

Oh man, that's what I was afraid of- buying a new one.
Thanks Jake, for all your help.