FIXED GE GTDP490EDWS Dryer - Turned off after 2 min in cycle and now won’t start

[Macgatlin]

Model Number

GTDP490ED7WS

Brand

GE

Age

6-10 years

We’ve had a GE GTDP490EDWS dryer for about 7 years. Within the last few weeks, we noticed that some loads were taking longer to dry, and it began to shut down mid-cycle after only a few minutes (2-3 min on average). You could hear an audible click and the motor stopped. Give it about another 2-3 minutes, another audible click and then the dryer could be run for a few more minutes. It did not matter if the cycle was sensor or timed. The strangest part was that it would run and finish loads on the off occasion. Continuity checked out on each of the thermostats.

The metal casing was not hot to the touch while it was running and airflow seemed plenty. However, whenever it shut down, the top of the unit towards the back where the heating element is located would get very hot. I assumed that with the blower fan not running anymore from the shut down, it would explain the heat had nowhere else to go.

We moved into a new home within the last few months so I went ahead and cleaned out the vent stack for good measure. I put on a new flexible duct when we moved in. I also cleaned that out as well. None of it was dirty and airflow seems to be plentiful coming out from the vent.

In my mind, all signs pointed to a failed motor from what I could tell so I bought a brand new motor. Unfortunately, it did not fix the issue as it continued to show the same characteristics. You could still hear the audible click.

Today, the dryer will no longer turn on. I assume the thermal fuse has blown. Before I take it apart again, I wanted to see if anyone had any recommendations on something I may have missed initially.

 

[rickgburton]

Missing a number between the D and W.

Click here: Appliance Parts

Then you will see a link that says: How to find a model number.

 

[Macgatlin]

Oops, here’s the model: GTDP490ED7WS

 

[rickgburton]

Measure the voltage where the power cord connects to the machine. After a while the heating elements starts to sag between the insulators. Make sure it's not touching the the housing or another element.

 

[Macgatlin]

Confirmed there was 120V on both L1/L2-N and L1-L2 there was 240.

 

[rickgburton]

You described a motor issue in your first post. You replaced the motor and have the same problem? Tell me exactly what it's doing with the new motor.

 

[Macgatlin]

That’s correct. The same symptoms are being shown even after replacing the motor with a brand new one. Unless I happened to get a bad motor on replacement, I imagine it’s something else.

Not sure what happened yesterday, but after testing the voltage, the dryer did run again like it had been previously. Runs for ~2 min and then shuts off after an audible click. My guess is that it’s the interlock switch that’s disengaging the motor after getting a signal from a thermostat?

 

[rickgburton]

Run the dryer on timed dry and select no heat or air fluff and see if it works.

 

[Macgatlin]

We tried no heat timer early on and that definitely ran for a while, if I recall correctly.

I started to take it apart again tonight, and I just found at least one problem a moment ago. The high-limit thermostat wiring crumbled off. Looks charred. I definitely don’t recall it looking that way before… but I could’ve missed it.

 

[Macgatlin]

Would you happen to know what wiring I can replace that with? Several searches for parts on my dryer model doesn't return much, and I don't see GE provide any details in their documentation.

The high-limit thermostat is absolutely broken so planning to order this once I can figure out what to do with the wires.

GE WE4M137 High Limit Thermostat (AP2042565) - AppliancePartsPros.com

This part is a high-limit thermostat. This is a genuine OEM part made by General Electric and has been sourced directly from the manufacturer. This part is intended to replace a broken or defective high limit thermostat on various dryer models. The high-limit thermostat is essential for cutting...

click.linksynergy.com

 

[rickgburton]

Cut the burned wire end off a couple inches back from the end and just add a new wire end. I use the hi-temp solderless crimp on. They're available at Walmart or any of the home centers. If the dryer works with no heat selected, the problem is that thermostat. Take the two wires off the thermostat and temporarily short them together and wrap a piece of black tape around the end then move them out of the way. Check the dryer and make sure everything is working. Run the dryer like that until you get your part but by no means leave it shorted. It's a safety device

 

[Macgatlin]

This wire connector is 3/16” and I can’t locate a hi-temp solderless crimp-on anywhere local that is 3/16” 18AWG 600V/105C rated. Walmart had a 16-14 gauge 1/4” connector that would work, but I assume you cannot interchange them?

 

[rickgburton]

With this kind of repair, size doesn't matter that much. Whatever works. The only thing that's important is the connection is tight tight tight. When you're on a service call and run out of wire ends, you solder the wire right to the thermostat. lol

 

[Macgatlin]

Ha, that’s fair. I’m not familiar enough with the connectors so was looking for the exact match. Really appreciate the insight, Rick.

I was able to crimp a tight connection using that insulated 14-16 gauge connector rated for 600V/105C from Walmart. Who knew that Walmart would have something 4 different Home Depot/Lowes and a few electrical supply shops wouldn’t.

We’re back in business now after replacing the high-limit thermostat.

 

[rickgburton]

Awesome!