GE Microwave PVM9005FM1DS popping breaker & blowing fuse

[Stayathomemom79]

Model Number

PVM9005FM1DS

Brand

GE

Age

1-5 years

Can someone please help me out? I have a GE Microwave PVM9005FM1DS. When starting it the circuit breaker would pop then the fuse finally blew. I switched the fuse, tested all 3 micro switches for continuity all 3 tested as they should and the clickers all click without hesitation. So I replaced the latch board put the switches in and powered it on and bam pop the circuit breaker and blew the fuse. I ordered 3 new switches I’m waiting for them to come in. Also what would cause the microwave to start running or at least that’s what it seemed like happened when I pulled on the door to open in. But in the meantime does anyone have any suggestions on what else the problem could be?

 

[Wx4usa]

It would appear that your switches are bad or at least mistimed. This is the number one most COMMON cause of fuses blowing. There are three switches however, two are identical and one is not. With the door open, two NO Normally Open switches will show no continuity and one NC Normally Closed switch will show continuity. When the door is closed, the switches will be depressed a the readings will be reversed. When the NC switch fails it will immediately blow the internal fuse. This will also cause the fan, turntable and light to operate when the door is opened. (It is not cooking however) You are on the right track to replace all three switches. Make sure you are replacing the fuse with a microwave fuse. It is NOT a typical 120v 20amp fuse from the hardware store. If the switches are found to not be the issue, it will likely be the magnetron failing…RARE. I attached two photos that might help.

 

[Stayathomemom79]

Thank you. I’m hoping to have the switches by tomorrow. I will definitely get back to you and let you know how I make out.

 

[Wx4usa]

Make note of which switch goes in each of the three positions. They should be marked NO and NC.

 

[Stayathomemom79]

Make note of which switch goes in each of the three positions. They should be marked NO and NC.

Good morning, I received the parts this morning. I did notice the original top switch does not sit snug in the latch board and the new switch does not fit snug in the new latch board. Is that normal?
I also wanted to check the continuity in the capacitor and possibly anything else I should or could test before putting everything back together. Do you think that’s something I should do or just try this then move forward if it doesn’t work?

 

[Wx4usa]

I’d focus on the switches for now. The capacitor is on the very dangerous high voltage section. This was a new latch board correct?

 

[Stayathomemom79]

I’d focus on the switches for now. The capacitor is on the very dangerous high voltage section. This was a new latch board correct?

Well that’s what I’m hoping it is. I bought a new latch board, switches and fuses. I just wanted to try and eliminate numerous times of taking it apart and putting it back together . But I completely understand I’ll try the latch board and switches first. Do you know if there should be play (movement) in the first switch?

 

[Wx4usa]

There is a little play. I’d start there because you don’t have to unistall in most cases

 

[Stayathomemom79]

I’m so disappointed. I put the new latch board, switches and fuse in and when I start the microwave it immediately stopped. I unplugged it and plugged it back in now it won’t even power on. I have it plugged into a surge protector because I have it sitting on my dining room table.

 

[Wx4usa]

So, no display? No light?

 

[Stayathomemom79]

When I initially plugged it in yes everything turned on as it should once I started it it ran for about a second or two then turned off. Now when I plug it in I get no display or power at all.

 

[Wx4usa]

Sounds like the switch issue still caused the internal fuse to blow. Did you install two NO switches and one NC switch? Might be time for professional help.

 

[Stayathomemom79]

Yes I replaced all 3 switches.

 

[Stayathomemom79]

Do you know where I could find that trouble shooting guide or spec sheet for this particular model?

 

[Dan O.]

If it happens immediately when starting to heat, it could be a problem in the heating system, ie. a short. Possibilities include the HV transformer, HV capacitor, diode and maybe the magnetron tube.

You can find some general test procedures at the following link:

Microwave Oven Component Testing

Component Testing | Appliance Aid

www.applianceaid.com

Not that it will help with this but you can see your unit's 'mini manual' at this link. (There's also a paper copy in the appliance.)

LINK > GE PVM9005FM1DS Mini Manual # 31-41093


Dan O.

 

[OT121]

Hello, i believe i am having the same problem with my GE LVM1750DP1BB . I will be replacing fuse and switches today. is the middle switch the NC switch?

 

[Stayathomemom79]

If it happens immediately when starting to heat, it could be a problem in the heating system, ie. a short. Possibilities include the HV transformer, HV capacitor, diode and maybe the magnetron tube.

You can find some general test procedures at the following link:

Microwave Oven Component Testing

Component Testing | Appliance Aid

www.applianceaid.com

Not that it will help with this but you can see your unit's 'mini manual' at this link. (There's also a paper copy in the appliance.)

LINK > GE PVM9005FM1DS Mini Manual # 31-41093


Dan O.

I can’t seem to figure out what the problem is. I switched out the the latch board and all 3 micro switches and it’s still blowing the fuse. I removed it from the wall and have it on my dining room table. I discharged the capacitor I tested continuity on some parts but I can’t find a video or paperwork to tell me what should have continuity or how many volts things should have. I put a new fuse in and when I start it there is a spark that comes from something near the fuse area I’m not sure if it’s the fuse itself when it blows or not. I just really need to fix this microwave because replacing it is definitely not in my budget right now because it’s so expensive.

 

[Stayathomemom79]

I can’t seem to figure out what the problem is. I switched out the the latch board and all 3 micro switches and it’s still blowing the fuse. I removed it from the wall and have it on my dining room table. I discharged the capacitor I tested continuity on some parts but I can’t find a video or paperwork to tell me what should have continuity or how many volts things should have. I put a new fuse in and when I start it there is a spark that comes from something near the fuse area I’m not sure if it’s the fuse itself when it blows or not. I just really need to fix this microwave because replacing it is definitely not in my budget right now because it’s so expensive.

I have tested the hv capacitor, the diode and the transformer the problem is I can’t find a video or information on exactly what I should be getting when testing those things on this model microwave. I have never worked on anything remotely close to this electrical components are something I know nothing about.

 

[Dan O.]

I can’t find a video or information on exactly what I should be getting when testing those things on this model microwave.

I don't know where you'll find the exact information for that model. There is a graphic at the Microwave Oven Component Testing link above showing the rough measurements that should be expected. The graphic at that link is titled "Some common components and how to check them with a ohm meter".

Alternately, you can check with some local service depots to see if you can take the unit to them for service. That would at least save a service charge.