FIXED GE Monogram Grill:ZGU484LGP2SS: Grill doesnt ignite

Dan The Man

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2018
Messages
13
Location
Pennsylvania
Model
ZGU484LGP2SS
Brand
GE
Age
6-10 years
I decided to clean my grill. I removed all the parts down to but not including the ceramic.
I vacuumed the surface of the ceramic and wasn’t satisfied with the level of clean that I obtained.
I lightly wire brushed the ceramic and vacuumed again.
I discovered (or caused) a crack in the rear most ceramic brick.
When I reinstalled everything, the unit wouldn’t work. The igniter lit but I believe that the ceramic bricks were not receiving any LP.

Any thoughts?
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
99,213
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi Dan,

From the parts diagram that mesh is expensive and out-of-stock everywhere, which usually indicates its no longer in production.

That mesh is #169 here: Parts for GE ZGU484LGP2SS: Grill & Griddle Assembly Parts

Usually when the glow bar igniter is glowing but no gas comes out of your safety valve, that indicates your glow bar igniter has got weak and can't open the safety valve.

It should take about 45 seconds and no longer than 60 seconds to light the gas.

What happens is when you turn on the grill the igniter should draw 3.2-3.6 amps to properly open the safety valve to let the gas come out.

If you'd like to check it, use an Clamp style Amp Probe around one of the igniter wires. You're looking for 3.2 to 3.6 amps.

Harbor Freight and Sears sells them, Like this one here: Clamp Amp Meter

Here's the grill igniter glow bar for your model:
WB13K10030 Igniter Glowbar


Jake
 

Dan The Man

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2018
Messages
13
Location
Pennsylvania
Thanks Jake

Looking at the diagram, #169 is the mesh. That's a part that I could fab in about an hour with stuff I have in the shop (I'm a tin knocker). I doubt that part is the problem anyway. In my mind, it shouldn't effect the opening of the gas valve.
I was in fear of #143 the Burner IR ...same problem though...out of stock (but not something that i could make).

I struggle with the thought of the igniter coincidentally "going" since it worked before cleaning...

HOWEVER...this is absolutely the best starting point (testing the igniter) because testing it is free test and replacing the igniter (for the second time in this unit's lifetime) is the lesser of 2 evils.
 
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Dan The Man

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2018
Messages
13
Location
Pennsylvania
Well I got time to take it apart again.
Recall I said that it’s the second time for the igniter? Well, the lazy GE repair guy who did the first repair didn’t feel like disassembling the unit to access the plug, so he just cut and wire nutted the leads. (I know that this is not the problem, just an interesting sidenote.)

I put the amp meter on and he gave me a reading of 2.71. It appears as though I need to replace the igniter.

I wonder if I have a warranty on the part from the previous replacement?
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Joined
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Messages
99,213
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yup, you will need to replace the glow bar igniter.

I wonder if I have a warranty on the part from the previous replacement?
You'll have to contact the company who replaced it to check their parts warranty.

When you order parts from our site you always have a 365 day warranty on all parts.

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
99,213
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Excellent Dan, better late than never.:)

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 
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