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FIXED GE Monogram (Refrigerator & Freezer) Does Not Blow Cold Air - Leak or Something Else?

Bonz2020

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2020
Messages
8
Location
Southern California
Model Number
ZISS480DXASS
Brand
GE
Age
More than 10 years
Hello. Wish you all had a great Christmas and will get a phenomenal 2022.
I've got a 14 year old 48" ZISS480DXASS. Been working fine until 2 days ago the freezer jumped up to 10F and the fridge to 47. This happened over a couple of hours. Within the next few hours freezer got to 15 and fridge to 50. Couldn't hear the compressor turning on. I turned the unit off and changed the main control board as it had been replaced 3 months ago with a second hand one. Thought it to be logical to replace it with a new one I had on hand to discard that potential variable. That did not fix it, within a short amount of time it reached 60+ and has remained there. Everything else appears to be working (water dispenser, lights, fans).
I then vacuumed the coils as they did look fairly dirty.

Self diagnostic tests all shows well, aside from the fact that when I run the HMI self test, the LEDS on the bottom drawer do not turn on. And when I enter this test mode, I can only get out of it by power cycling the unit. We've always had issues with the chill/thaw drawer section of the fridge (6 years ago we stopped using it after it could have broken the fridge in a similar fashion as to now. We had to swap out the inverter board) I recently turned this section of the fridge on to see if it worked. So it could be that it blew the inverter board somehow 6 years ago and now it's done it again?!

My next step is to replace the inverter board because the compressor is not turning on.

My local repair guy tells me it could be a leak of the refrigerant and that it can cost around $4K. But that I should call GE and have them figure it out. Surely swapping out the inverter board is a better step to take than call GE appliance company as a first step, majority owned by China, BTW. Basically what this tells me is that I've somehow pi$$ed off my local repair guy.
So, to whoever reads this. If you know what next steps I could take, past swapping out the inverter board, please educate me.
Thanking you in advance.
Rob
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
125,564
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi Rob,

Yes, if the fans are running BUT compressor is now NOT running at all--->You may have a bad compressor inverter board, sometimes you can tell from just looking at the compressor inverter board if its bad or not, unplug the refrigerator and look for burnt components on the compressor inverter board.

If you DON'T see any burnt components on the compressor inverter board, you'll need a multimeter to check volts.

Check for 3-6 VOLTS DC between the two smaller wires going to the inverter. Then check for 120 VOLTS AC between the orange wire and the black wire going to the inverter. If the voltage is correct, remove the inverter from the compressor and measure the resistance of the compressor windings. You should have about 10 ohms between any two pins.

Here's the compressor inverter board for your model:
WR49X10283 Inverter Board


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

Bonz2020

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2020
Messages
8
Location
Southern California
Thanks for your input. I replaced the compressor inverter board and the problem went away. Close inspection of the old board showed a raise cap, which likely was the issue but I did not take any measurements as I already had the new board at hand and figured a quick replacement would tell me it that was the problem.
Any ideas how I can test the Chill/Thaw drawer for a potential short or current spike it may generate and thus burn out the compressor inverter board? I'm fairly sure this is the root cause of the problem as both times I've tried turning it on, it's blow the board.
Thanks again
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
125,564
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
I replaced the compressor inverter board and the problem went away.
Excellent Rob, glad to hear the new compressor inverter board fixed it.(y)

Thanks for the update!

Close inspection of the old board showed a raise cap, which likely was the issue but I did not take any measurements as I already had the new board at hand and figured a quick replacement would tell me it that was the problem.
Any ideas how I can test the Chill/Thaw drawer for a potential short or current spike it may generate and thus burn out the compressor inverter board? I'm fairly sure this is the root cause of the problem as both times I've tried turning it on, it's blow the board.
Not that I'm aware of Rob, I don't think that is the root cause, the compressor inverter board just wears out overtime.

TW, how do I close this entry with a "Resolved"? Or does admin have to do that?
Done.:)

Jake
 
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