GE Monogram ZISS480DRISS Water Not Dispensing Headache

ChurroLover

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2019
Messages
9
Location
Chandler, Arizona
Model Number
ZISS480DRISS
Brand
GE
Age
More than 10 years
Hello,

I have been trying to fix this beast for a few days now. This is a 2006/2007 model. The machine is creating and dispensing ice but I can't get water to dispense on the freezer door. When I started I checked the ohms on the Dual Inlet Water Valve, it read 385 ohms and 185 ohms for solenoids. I went ahead and purchased and installed a new GE branded Dual Inlet Water Valve as everything I have read indicates that this part is generally the problem. Unfortunately the problem still exists...the unit is making ice but will not dispense water. I blew through the pex water line going from the bottom up through the freezer door (see photos below) and confirmed that the line is not frozen (air comes out of the dispenser). When I press on the cup water dispenser, I can hear the solenoid from the dual inlet water valve kick in, I can also feel the solenoid shake. However, no water comes out the line heading towards the water dispenser (it still has air bubbles in the line). The unit does not have a GE water filter installed as it connects to an RO system and water is turned on makes it to the inlet water valve.

I am at a loss and I'm not sure what the issue can be at this point. It seems to me that there is something blocking the way between the dual inlet water valve and the line heading towards the dispenser. Any idea what might be the issue? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!

Service Manual: http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2919&d=1319200434

Thanks,
Steve


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Last edited:

rickgburton

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Lets see if I'm following you correctly. You're not using the water filter in the machine so the water supply line is connected to the water valve directly. When the ice maker is calling for water the water valve opens and fills the ice maker. Ice maker is working OK. When you press the dispenser lever you hear the solenoid on the water valve so you assume it's getting the correct voltage. If you can feel air coming out of the line the problem may just be you need to bleed the air. Continue pressing the dispenser lever until water comes out of the line. The line for the dispenser comes out of the water valve and into the fresh food compartment and connects to the water reservoir. It leaves the water reservoir out of the fresh food compartment under the machine over to the left door lower hinge. If you hold the dispenser for 60 seconds and no water comes out of the line, disconnect the water line under the dispenser solenoid on the new valve and press the dispenser. If water comes out of the valve the problem is a blockage between that water line through the reservoir and the line out to the door hinge. A common issue is water freezing at the exit of the reservoir or at the entrance of the water valve. Remove power to the machine and access the water tank in the fresh food compartment. Use a hair dryer to make sure there is no ice in the water tank or lines and try it. If you did not bleed the air from the system this can cause ice in the tank. If it works after thawing it fill about 4 large glasses to make sure all the air is out and then try it again.
 

ChurroLover

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2019
Messages
9
Location
Chandler, Arizona
I pressed the dispenser level down for 60 seconds and noticed something new. Before it was dry under the fridge on the back right part, now it started dripping. I noticed that yesterday too when I depressed the lever too long. I imagine this is directly underneath the fresh food compartment where the water tank is. If its leaking do you think the tank or line near the tank has a hole?
 

ChurroLover

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2019
Messages
9
Location
Chandler, Arizona
Ok I took the apart the fresh food compartment on the bottom of the refrigerator and uncovered the chilled water tank. There was a bunch of water standing below this "climate control drawer", and a layer of ice. This would then leak to the floor below the fridge. The tank has a crack at the top of it (see picture). I couldn't tell if the tank was frozen so I thawed that and the area with a hairdryer just in case. I'm thinking about trying to fix it with some epoxy or something. My wife has been complaining for a while that this special "Climate control drawer" has been freezing the food, From the service manual it looks like this drawer has a heating element under it. I'm wondering if I have a problem with it. Any thoughts on this? Is it ok to try to repair the tank?

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rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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I've never tried repairing a water tank. I always just replace it. Before you replace it or fix it you need to solve the custom cool problem or it will just happen again. Does the climate control board and display appear to be working normally?

 

ChurroLover

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Messages
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Location
Chandler, Arizona
Is there a test to confirm the control board on that climate drawer is working correctly. The buttons and display are working, the fan kicks in, I can hear the door things open and close.
 

rickgburton

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Enter the diagnostic mode by pressing both the freezer temperature pads (plus and minus) and the refrigerator temperature pads (plus and minus) simultaneously. All 4 pads must be held for approximately 3 seconds. Blinking “0’s” in both displays indicate the refrigerator has entered the test mode. This may take several tries. Go to test 06 (0 in freezer display 6 in FF display). This is the thermistor test.

Display order is:
Fresh Food 1
Fresh Food 2
Custom Cool
Evaporator

Freezer Thermistor test results are:
P = pass, 0 = fail, S = short to 5 VDC, B = bad amplifier (replace main board).

Unplug the machine and disconnect the J7 connector. Check for 438Ω J7-5 to J7-9

Custom Cool and Quick Chill are the same thing. Here's the pinouts for the Custom Cool:

GEMB-06 Supply Volts.jpg


GEMB-09 Custom cool.jpg
 

ChurroLover

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Messages
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Location
Chandler, Arizona
Thanks Rick. It's really hard to get the refrigerator into diagnostic mode for some reason. When I get it into that mode I entered 0 on the freezer display and then 6 on the fridge display. Then both displays go blank and stay blank. I don't get any test results. Does the test take a while? Am I supposed to close the door? I left the door open expecting the test results to come but gave up after 10 minutes of it being blank.

Thanks Steve
 

rickgburton

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After you hold all four pads and get blinking "0", press any pad except the temp + and - pads. See if that locks in the test mode. Then go to 0 6
 

ChurroLover

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Joined
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Messages
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Location
Chandler, Arizona
I got the test to run by pressing another key to lock in the test mode as you mentioned. I don't think 0 and 6 are the tests for the freezer thermistor. I ran 0 and 7 and it showed "P" for each of 5 tests.

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ChurroLover

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Messages
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Location
Chandler, Arizona
I was curious if I install a new water tank is it ok to use quick connections for the pex water lines inside the refrigerator instead of pulling out the built-in fridge and tracing the pex to were it connects. I'm not sure my epoxy fix is going to hold so I'm considering buying a new tank

Thanks
Steve
 
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rickgburton

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You don't need any special connectors and you don't need to pull out the machine. The new water reservoir comes with the water lines. The water line is routed from the water valve, out the back of the machine compartment, down the back of the cabinet through the bottom of the unit, and into the fresh food compartment where it is attached to the water reservoir. Cut the water line at the reservoir and couple it to the new water line on the new reservoir then pull it back through and up to the water valve and connect it. Cut the water line coming out of the reservoir, couple it to the new line and pull it out and over to the lower freezer door hinge and couple it to the existing coupler.
 
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