GE PFE28KSKFSS Profile freezer warm refrig cool

[mooch91]

Model Number

PFE28KSKFSS

Brand

GE

Age

1-5 years

Hi all,

Troubleshooting an issue with the subject french door refrigerator/freezer which is about 4-5 years old.

Suddenly the freezer became warm and the fridge remained cold. We dumped a couple hundred dollars in food on Thursday. Now to find the problem.

I unplugged the unit for a few days, left doors open, and then spent the time cleaning it out.

I've restarted it, and same effect - freezer warm, fridge cold. What I've noticed now is that the freezer evaporator fan does run, but ONLY for a few seconds on startup and then when the freezer door is left open for a period of time (few minutes). If I leave the door open, the freezer evaporator fan continues running.

Compressor is running, condenser fan is running.

I've scoured the unit and can't find a wiring diagram.

Anything common that would prevent the freezer evaporator fan from running when the door is closed, but then allow it to run when the door is opened?

Thanks in advance for any help that you might be able to provide!

 

[mooch91]

Update:

I've found how to enter the tech menu for this refrig/freezer.

Unfortunately I didn't do a good job of capturing the initial fault codes.

When I run the fault code read now, it shows 00 10 - which would be freezer icemaker thermistor out of range.

It also shows 01 05 which is condenser fan cannot reach target speed. The condenser fan appears to be running ok.

I've run diagnostic 00 48 which is the freezer fan test. The freezer evaporator fan comes on and shows an RPM, I think it was about 2400 or so. So the evap fan appears to be working.

How do I determine if the ice maker thermistor or the condenser fan are holding out the evap fan from running and cooling the freezer?

I may play with the diagnostics some more...

 

[mooch91]

Update #2:

After playing with the diagnostics, I put the freezer in to "turbo" mode for an hour and a half or so, then changed the setpoint over to -5 deg F. Freezer evaporator fan came on when put in to turbo mode and has continued to work once switched to setpoint. The evaporator coil, at least what I can see beyond the fan through the opening, looks nicely coated with a light layer of frost. A thermometer inside the freezer, as well as the thermistor diagnostics, tell me I'm down to about 10 deg F after a couple of more hours.

If it does cool down fully, I'm stumped, because I haven't really done anything. I'm still not sure why it takes so long for the evaporator fan to come on after restart. I can only assume it's waiting for a temperature on the evaporator coil that takes a little while to achieve.

It is quite possible my issue started with a door that wasn't fully shut, but I'll need to keep an eye on it to be sure.

Input still appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[Jake]

When you tested the freezer evaporator fan motor, was the door switch pushed in?

Here's the freezer evaporator fan motor for your model:
WR60X10352 Fz Fan & Felt Asm


Use your multimeter to check the evaporator fan motor in the freezer voltages at the connector that plugs into that motor.

When the freezer fan is NOT running:
Test voltage at--->RED to BLACK --->You should have 12 Volts DC CONSTANTLY

IF the freezer fan is running check these voltages too:
YELLOW to BLACK - 2 to 3 VDC / FAN ON
BLUE to BLACK - 2 to 4 VDC / FAN ON

Keep this simple, don't do anymore volt tests expect to RED to BLACK when the fan is not running. You only test YELLOW to BLACK and BLUE to BLACK when the fan is running.

If you are getting 12 volts DC at RED to BLACK or a little higher and the fan is NOT running, then your fan is the problem, cut and dry.

I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below.

In the tech data sheet you can actually get into the SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS and do a FORCED DEFROST and a FREEZER(EVAPORATOR) FAN MOTOR TEST.

 

[mooch91]

Update #3:

I cleaned out the condenser very well using my air compressor. Though it looked fairly clean, my kitchen floor would have said otherwise.

The 01 05 "condenser fan cannot reach target speed" fault has not returned following the cleaning.

The unit continues to do well - it's achieving setpoint in the freezer and has iced a small tupperware of water I put in there.

Still not sure what was wrong before - but it appears to be working now!

 

[mooch91]

When you tested the freezer evaporator fan motor, was the door switch pushed in?

Here's the freezer evaporator fan motor for your model:
WR60X10352 Fz Fan & Felt Asm


Use your multimeter to check the evaporator fan motor in the freezer voltages at the connector that plugs into that motor.

When the freezer fan is NOT running:
Test voltage at--->RED to BLACK --->You should have 12 Volts DC CONSTANTLY

IF the freezer fan is running check these voltages too:
YELLOW to BLACK - 2 to 3 VDC / FAN ON
BLUE to BLACK - 2 to 4 VDC / FAN ON

Keep this simple, don't do anymore volt tests expect to RED to BLACK when the fan is not running. You only test YELLOW to BLACK and BLUE to BLACK when the fan is running.

If you are getting 12 volts DC at RED to BLACK or a little higher and the fan is NOT running, then your fan is the problem, cut and dry.

I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below.

In the tech data sheet you can actually get into the SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS and do a FORCED DEFROST and a FREEZER(EVAPORATOR) FAN MOTOR TEST.

Thanks. I will test the evaporator fan using a multi-meter, but by all indications, it is working now. I found a tech manual for an alternate model that talked about the "pull down" sequence, which suggests the freezer evaporator fan will not start until the evaporator temperature gets low enough. Since I was starting up a room temperature unit, I think this is why I didn't see the fan starting.

Still not sure what went wrong initially. It could have possibly been that the door was left open at some point causing the freezer thaw. Also - we are without AC in the house right now and the refrig/freezer is "built in" to a cubby in the kitchen, which might have caused some airflow/temperature issues. I will be keeping an eye on it before committing any more food.

Do you have the tech manual for this unit? 2017 GE Profile PFE28KSKFSS.

Thanks!

 

[mooch91]

Update #4:

Overnight the 01 05 "condenser fan cannot reach target speed" code came back.

So I'm still seeing this one, plus 00 10 - "freezer icemaker thermistor out of range".

The freezer had gotten down to the -4 deg F setpoint, but is now up to 10 deg F. Still keeping an eye on it periodically. Late last night it must have defrosted because it got up to about 20 deg F for a little bit, with evaporator fan off and evap coil looked thawed. Perhaps it's recovering from another defrost right now again, not sure how often this unit goes in to defrost.

 

[Jake]

Do you have the tech manual for this unit? 2017 GE Profile PFE28KSKFSS.

No, I couldn't locate that one, sorry.

The freezer had gotten down to the -4 deg F setpoint, but is now up to 10 deg F. Still keeping an eye on it periodically. Late last night it must have defrosted because it got up to about 20 deg F for a little bit, with evaporator fan off and evap coil looked thawed. Perhaps it's recovering from another defrost right now again, not sure how often this unit goes in to defrost.

It uses a adaptive defrost cycle, per the run time of the compressor.

This is a strange problem you are having, yes keep your eye on it for awhile.

Its possibly the evaporator thermistor or motherboard. The evaporator thermistor clips onto the top of the evaporator coil, behind the back panel inside the freezer.

All GE thermistors on this model should read at about 16.3k ohms with the thermistor covered in frost OR in ice water for about 5 minutes before ohm testing it.

All the thermistors use the exact same part number:
Thermistor WR55X10025


Here's the motherboard for your model:

GE WR55X38248 Main Board Assembly (AP7175669) - AppliancePartsPros.com

Main board assembly WR55X38248 / AP7175669 made by GE

click.linksynergy.com

Jake

 

[mooch91]

Update #5:

Seems to be holding at -3 deg F very well, except for when it goes in to what I presume is a defrost cycle. Then it can get warm over a period of about an hour (I'm guessing)... climbing to 20-30 deg F. Which I am assuming is typical defrost operation. I'm thinking it's happening on an 8-10 hour frequency right now.

The freezer compartment temperature, as reported in the diagnostics, is consistently matching with the thermometer I have inside the freezer.

We're not putting food back in yet, but I've put the back panel on, and I've slid the refrigerator/freezer back in to its cubby.

Let's see, I will keep this updated!

 

[Jake]

Ok, sounds good.

Jake

 

[mooch91]

Update #6:

It *seems* to be working OK, but haven't put anything in the freezer just yet, only the fridge.

Have a new code.

In addition to the 00 10 (FZ icemaker thermistor reading out of range) and 01 05 (condenser fan cannot reach target speed), I now have 02 03 (5 consecutive FF extended defrosts).

This is interesting because it's in the fresh food section, where I didn't *think* I have a problem.

Do these give any additional clues?

I am also tracking temperature in the freezer (largely closed, nothing really in it) and am seeing some temperature spikes. I'm not sure if this is a function of having no mass in the freezer to hold the temperature during defrosts or something else. Graph below.

Thanks again.

 

[Jake]

Yes, as I mentioned This is a strange problem you are having, yes it helps to have at least some water bottles in the freezer, than nothing at all.

Its very difficult to pinpoint this problem just online here.

Jake