- Model Number
- PHP9036DJ2BB
- Brand
- GE
- Age
- 1-5 years
Hi all, we had a storm roll through a few days ago and had a nearby lightning strike. We were in the kitchen when that strike hit and immediately heard a pop in our induction cooktop. We had the front left burner on at the time. Three breakers including the one for the cooktop tripped. After that, the cooktop would turn on, but power down after about 10 seconds.
I'm getting a "61 - Cannot communicate with induction module that powers left coils" error code.
I've started digging into it and found that the fuse in this image (left fuse of the left filter board) was most definitely blown.
I replaced it with another 20A 250V fast-blow fuse and crossed my fingers. When I had it back together and flipped the breaker, the breaker instantly tripped again and the new fuse blew. So it is a symptom and not the cause unfortunately. I've got a short somewhere but I'm not seeing any obvious damage anywhere else. I've gently peeled back the insulation from the front left burner that was on and there aren't any scorched wires. I get continuity through the coil and ~.1 -.2 ohms resistance (not sure if that's right or wrong, but that matched what I saw on the back left coil).
I've tried seeing what happens when the three coils on the left and the "problem fuse" are physically removed from the cooktop. It behaves the same as right after I turned the breaker back on after the lightning strike. I could start heating a pot of water on the back right burner and after about 10 seconds or so, the cooktop would turn off (no breakers or fuse blowing, just as if I had pushed the off button on that burner).
Since the right side is acting wonky, I'm hesitant to start blindly buying parts for the left side. Hoping someone can tell me if that's an expected behavior (like it detects a fault code anywhere in the system and just shuts down out of an abundance of caution).
I'd love any ideas on potentially tracking down the short.... The filter board seems like a good place to start, but I sure would have like to have seen something that gave me a better indication... For "possible fixes", the service sheet said to 1) check the wires connecting the UI to the induction tray, 2) replace the UI, 3) replace the induction tray. Won't take too many bad guesses to get to the point where it would have made more sense to replace the whole thing (which is certainly not ideal right now $$$).
Any ideas are greatly appreciated!!
I'm getting a "61 - Cannot communicate with induction module that powers left coils" error code.
I've started digging into it and found that the fuse in this image (left fuse of the left filter board) was most definitely blown.
I replaced it with another 20A 250V fast-blow fuse and crossed my fingers. When I had it back together and flipped the breaker, the breaker instantly tripped again and the new fuse blew. So it is a symptom and not the cause unfortunately. I've got a short somewhere but I'm not seeing any obvious damage anywhere else. I've gently peeled back the insulation from the front left burner that was on and there aren't any scorched wires. I get continuity through the coil and ~.1 -.2 ohms resistance (not sure if that's right or wrong, but that matched what I saw on the back left coil).
I've tried seeing what happens when the three coils on the left and the "problem fuse" are physically removed from the cooktop. It behaves the same as right after I turned the breaker back on after the lightning strike. I could start heating a pot of water on the back right burner and after about 10 seconds or so, the cooktop would turn off (no breakers or fuse blowing, just as if I had pushed the off button on that burner).
Since the right side is acting wonky, I'm hesitant to start blindly buying parts for the left side. Hoping someone can tell me if that's an expected behavior (like it detects a fault code anywhere in the system and just shuts down out of an abundance of caution).
I'd love any ideas on potentially tracking down the short.... The filter board seems like a good place to start, but I sure would have like to have seen something that gave me a better indication... For "possible fixes", the service sheet said to 1) check the wires connecting the UI to the induction tray, 2) replace the UI, 3) replace the induction tray. Won't take too many bad guesses to get to the point where it would have made more sense to replace the whole thing (which is certainly not ideal right now $$$).
Any ideas are greatly appreciated!!
