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GE Potscrubber Dishwasher GSD2230Z02WW - not enough water

Legion303

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2021
Messages
7
Location
Denver
Model Number
GSD2230Z02WW
Brand
GE
Age
More than 10 years
I couldn't find a tag, so I'm not sure of the exact model. It's an older one with a rotary cycle selector and four push-buttons on the front for scrub/normal and heated dry on/off, no lights or displays. The float switch isn't the mushroom type, but is covered and protected by a bolt and bracket going to the heating element.

We noticed an undissolved detergent pack in the basin after a load, ran another through, and found the new pack also undissolved. The water pressure seems fine and the flow looked good when I started a cycle with the door open (overriding the latch). I disconnected the inlet hose and cleaned out the screen, made sure there were no blockages, and hooked it all back up. Put some cups right-side up in both racks and ran a cycle. The top cups had no water and the bottom ones were maybe 1/4 full. With the door open and me holding a hand over the center of the spray arm to catch the water, the center column didn't feel like it was getting enough pressure to raise all the way. But there wasn't much water in, either.

I'm getting about 800 Ohms at the inlet valve (within spec), continuity at the float switch is fine, the float travels freely, and the arm is clear of blockages. I cleaned out the drain filter and moved what I assume is the chopper (little wire stub sticking into the filter, I can move it in a circle and it's moving freely). I also removed the spray arms and put a large glass bowl over the sump so I could start a cycle with the door open and see exactly how much of the basin was filling, but quite a bit of water came out from under the machine when I tried. I'm still not clear as to what happened there. After I buttoned it back up and started it again, no signs of a leak.

I'm at a loss as to what to check next if the float switch and inlet valve are testing OK. I have not removed the valve to check the solenoid, but that's going to involve building a battery pack and the flow looked strong. Could this still be the issue? What else should I be checking? Thanks!

Added model number
 
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Legion303

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2021
Messages
7
Location
Denver
(Addendum: I forgot to mention that I also probed the inlet valve during a wash cycle and it is getting 120V when it should.)
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
115,891
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
How high is the water level in the tub of the dishwasher? It should be fairly high on the older GE models.

Take a photo of it after it fills.

Without a model number it will be difficult to get parts for this machine.

Jake
 

Legion303

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2021
Messages
7
Location
Denver
Thanks for the reply. Three minutes into the cycle, there's not enough in the tub to even measure. The good news is that I found the tag and model #: GSD2230Z02WW.
 

Legion303

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2021
Messages
7
Location
Denver
And I think I've ruled out the inlet valve. I ran it empty but with a cup right-side up on the top rack, just until the start of the "short wash" cycle, opened the door, poured water in up to the heating element, ran it through until it hit the rinse cycle, then filled the tub up to the element again and let it finish. The cup barely had any water in it. So...plenty of water, no blockage in the sprayer arms, filter as clean as I can get it with my hands and a toothbrush, chopper blade spinning OK, float switch and float working...at this point I'm thinking it's either dumping water out too soon or too often or the pump is shot. I don't hear water draining during normal operation, but then this thing's loud. The pump motor sounds as normal as it always does. How can I test these things?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
115,891
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Then its possibly a bad timer. The timer controls the amount of water that goes into the tub.

Here's the timer for your model:
Timer WD21X10013


Jake
 

Legion303

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2021
Messages
7
Location
Denver
Thanks, Jake. Would the timer explain why water wasn't getting to the top rack even when I manually filled the tub up? Are there further tests I can run on that part myself?
 

Legion303

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2021
Messages
7
Location
Denver
I think I've found the issue! The drain pump solenoid was stuck in the down (drain open) position. I could see the white nylon gear moving up and down a bit during the cycle but didn't realize that the solenoid was actually supposed to push so far up when it closed. I managed to loosen it and it looks like it's working like it's supposed to now, although I'll probably have to replace that pump solenoid assembly before too much longer. Thanks for helping me work through this.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
115,891
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, I was going to ask if the water was going in then going right back out again with that drain flapper in the down position, but I'd thought you'd already checked that.

Yes, that drain flapper lever should move up and down freely, if not then the problem would be in the pump assembly, causing it to bind up and not release to UP(closed) position to stop the water from draining.

WD26X10013 Complete GE Pump and Motor Assembly


If the pump is allowing the flapper door to move up and down freely then that solenoid can cause it, thus not allowing the plunger to move up and down freely, then you'd need to order the drain solenoid kit.

Here's the drain solenoid kit for your model:
Drain Solenoid Kit WD21X802


Glad you found the problem.:)

Jake
 
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