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GE Profile Arctica PSI23SGNABS fridge and freezer too warm

ChrisNemitz

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2022
Messages
2
Location
Gardena california
Model Number
PSI23SGNABS
Brand
GE
Age
More than 10 years
Hello,
My fridge and freezer are too warm! My fridge is about 42 now and freezer 29! I cleaned the coil under the fridge it was dirty! The fan on the coils under the fridge is on. Sometimes I hear a loud thud from the fridge, idk if this is the compressor turning off? It sounds like a fan in the freezer is blowing hard, and the fan in the fridge is operating aswell, not as loud as freezer fan. I just noticed ice on the back of the freezer wall, on the cover that covers the coils/defroster in the back. Idk if there is a procedure to self check the fridge, or an order of operations to check? Any help is appreciated! Thank you!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
131,545
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Sometimes I hear a loud thud from the fridge, idk if this is the compressor turning off?
Yes, your compressor is starting to fail.

If you can remove the back panel inside the freezer and take a photo of your evaporator coil so we can see the frost patten, that would help us a lot.

Jake
 

ChrisNemitz

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2022
Messages
2
Location
Gardena california
Will do! unfortunately I defrosted them with a hair dryer yesterday. The fridge and freezer are now both at 36 and 4. Freezer set to 0 fridge set to 36. I took the heater element out and it had continuity, I put it back in and left the back panel off, then I opened it one time and noticed the heater was on working! So now it seems to be working, but idk for how long. Is there a way to check if it’s a thermostat/thermistor/or computer. I did the self diagnostic and the heater (1 4) didn’t turn on. I did self diagnostics and (0 7) all five thermistors passed. The compressor had been making that sound for at least a year, if not 2 or 3. I will absolutely post a pic when they freeze up again! My coils under fridge were very dirty, probably sealed. Now I cleaned them really good with tiny and large pipe cleaners 🤣. Thank you for your quick response and advice! I truly appreciate it!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
131,545
Location
Redmond, Oregon
You have 3 parts that control the auto defrost cycle, the motherboard, the evaporator thermistor, and the defrost heater.

You will need a Digital Multimeter to ohm test the defrost heater and evaporator thermistor.

Since you already ohm tested your defrost heater, you can skip that step.

Since the problem seems intermittent now, follow the steps below next time it does not defrost on its own. You need to put the evaporator cover back in place, at least loosely, to work properly.

So what we do is a process of elimination to determine the bad part. So you will want to unplug your refrigerator and ohm test the defrost heater first, but don't defrost it yet before testing it because if the heater checks good then you will need to ohm test the evaporator thermistor that's mounted on the top of your evaporator coil, and that needs to be covered in frost to ohm test that.

So take the food and shelves out of the freezer and remove the back panel inside the freezer, and test the defrost heater first, take the wires off before testing. Watch the video below to ohm test it, if that tests fine, then watch the video Shawn made to test your defrost thermistor. If both test fine, then your motherboard is the bad part.

Here's the evaporator thermistor for your model:
Thermistor WR55X10025


Watch this video, Shawn explains how to test/replace the evaporator thermistor:


Here's the defrost heater for your model:
Defrost Heater Assembly WR51X10055



Here's the motherboard for your model:
Main Control Board WR55X10942


Jake
 
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