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GE Profile fridge giving me fits!


Premium Member
Mar 16, 2013
Model Number
Hello. I really need some advice on this. I will give all of the details, as this one has me and a repairman stumped. I am actually working on this fridge for a friend who is financially strapped. It is a GE PSS26MGSABB. Here is what happened: The fridge was manufactured around 2005. I actually helped her deliver it when it was bought. Last week, it suddenly stopped cooling/freezing. No power to the digital temp controls or the ice maker control. The compressor nor the condenser motor would run. I can't remember if the interior lights worked or not.

I first bought and replaced the overload/run relay. I checked the run capacitor and it read and still reads perfect. After this, there was still no sign of life. After reading up on it, I was confident it would be the motherboard. When I removed it and saw a burnt resistor, I was even more sure. I replaced the motherboard and the condenser motor just in case it had caused the issue with the resistor. Still no life! But the interior lights do come on..I don't know if they did before though. Still no power to the ice maker or the temp controls in the fridge section.

Frustrated, I got a hard start kit, and checked the compressor, which started right up. A repairman put in ANOTHER motherboard, and still no change. I need to add that I can hear the evap motor running in the freezer section. So to tidy it all up:

Replaced: start overload relay, checked compressor (good), new motherboard (x's 2), new condenser motor. I did unplug the temp control board, as I read this would cause the fridge to override it and run non stop. No change after doing this.

Symptoms: Can hear evap motor running. Compressor and condenser will not run. No sign of life in the digital temp control nor the ice maker/water controls. Fridge is not cooling at all. I wanted to edit and say that by ice maker I mean the controls near the water dispenser. I actually noticed the ice maker itself was physically moving in the freezer.

Could a bad temp sensor cause the digital control board to not display at all? And if that was bad, why does it also affect the ice maker/water control? Is there another digital board I'm unaware of? I appreciate any help. I am trying to do a good deed and help someone, but it is slowly turning into a nightmare, and she has been without a fridge going on two weeks now. Thanks, David
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Do you have a half decent DMM (Digital Multi Meter) with a 20 Amp AC setting? What's the part number of the motherboard you put in there?
Thank you for replying. My DMM only covers up to 10 amp. I may be able to use one however. I work with electricians on my job.
Sorry, I had to make sure on the number for the board. It is a GE WR55X10942. I did not get to see the number for the board that was tried by the repairman. I just know it did not work either.
That will work if we need it. Let's start with the obvious first. If I understand you correctly, the motherboard is new (what's the part number?) and there is no display or compressor operation. If that's correct, the first thing you want to check is the wires and wire connections under the lower freezer hinge or under the top freezer hinge cover. If the wires are connected with a plastic connector, look closely at the pins in the connector and see if one or more is pulled out a little. I have a feeling we may not need to go any further. I've seen this before, more than once.
Hello. Board number is: GE WR55X10942. Yes, no display or compressor operation. And that would be great to find it is that kind of problem. I had heard of a possible problem with the wiring, but found no direct reference as to where to look. So I just remove a cover on the hinge? I will go over there and try it today.
OK, that's the correct board. I think the wire connector on your model is below the lower hinge. If not, it's under the top hinge cover. One screw it's off. Does she have a computer and can you get back here on this site while you're over there? If you can't, I'll give you a list of some tests and checks. I expect to have this refrigerator fixed and running in less than 10 posts and this one is #7. (I figured a little confidence couldn't hurt...lol)
After all I've been thru and already spent, a little confidence is welcome. lol. I will take my laptop over there. She won't be home for a couple of hours. So if you want to give me a list of checks to try in case you're busy then, I will sure do it. This one should actually be #7 btw. I forgot to give you the motherboard number earlier, so I posted a second reply that should not have been needed. :)
Well unfortunately after removing the lower grill, and checking the connection and the wires, I don't think that is her problem. The connector had not been corroded. The wires felt solid; and a continuity test showed no breaks, at least in that area. And I was wrong about hearing the evap fan. It was the ice maker. The evap fan, like the condenser and compressor, seems dead. Although not sure what in the ice maker I was hearing. Sounded like a small motor for a timer maybe. But that is all the fridge is doing, besides the interior lights. Everything is dead including the digital temp controls over the fresh food area. Is there a board that controls the defrost action that could cause everything else to shut down? I appreciate your help.
OK, no power issues are usually easy to find and fix so let's start with a few voltage readings. First unplug the machine and measure the fuse on the motherboard. Your evaporator fan motor is bad and I want to make sure that's not blowing the fuses on the board.The reason I know it's bad is here:
david89 said:
I was confident it would be the motherboard. When I removed it and saw a burnt resistor,
rickgburton said:
his is a rewrite of a thread I started in 2011 in an attempt to make it easier to understand and how to determine whether the evaporator fan motor should also be replaced with the motherboard on GE refrigerators with failed motherboards.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]I’ve had to replace both the variable speed DC evaporator fan motor along with main control boards or “motherboards” on GE side by side refrigerators, mostly the GSS HSS and PSS 20-22-25-27 cubic ft. models with both metal and plastic liners. I’ve found around half of these board failures were partly due to a faulty/shorted DC evaporator fan motor. Moisture gets inside the fan motor or thermistor that’s attached to the fan motor and causes shorts in the motor. Replacing just the motherboard and not the fan motor will only result in another failed motherboard in a short amount of time. To determine whether or not the fan motor should be replaced with the motherboard, first look at the two resistors below the J2 connector. If they are burned or discolored you should replace the fan motor

If the fuse is still good, plug the machine in and set your meter to measure VAC. On the board find the three terminals labeled COMP, DEFROST, and L1 then locate the J7 connector next to it. Measure the voltage drop between L1 and J7 pin 9 (orange wire). Your meter should indicate 120 VAC. If not, unplug the machine and disconnect the L1 connector and disconnect the J7 connector and measure the resistance between L1 in the connector, and the small terminal on the power cord and then the orange wire in the connector (J7 pin 9) to the large terminal on the power cord.
First I want to thank you for your help. I hit a road block when the motherboard didn't fix the problem and your suggestions give me some hope. I will check that first thing in the morning, and I will let you know what I find. I'm glad you find that power issues are usually easy to fix. That again gives me some confidence. I mistakenly thought the evap motor was running before. So maybe this will be the problem. I will keep you posted.
There's an EMI on the power cord. I've had to replace those before for no power issue. Come to think of it, one had a shorted board I believe caused it. I just finished this for members with GE refrigerators to use as visual aid. You get the first copy. I suggest you don't do any measurements until we're done troubleshooting your problem or it will just get both of us confused. Don't post any measurements unless I ask for them. I'm getting older and I get confused easy....LOL.
Motherboard Information.jpg
Thank you very much for the diagram. I am going to put it to use today. She works in a special needs home and has weird hours. I finally have a chance to get back over there. She does have interior lights in the fridge and freezer. Just no power to anything "digital" I guess I should say. If I had not tried two new motherboards already, I would be assuming that was the problem. Will keep you informed....
About a year or so ago we had a member with almost the same identical problem on, I think the same model. After the second motherboard didn't fix it I had him recheck his model number. He was reading it off of the door and not the model tag inside. There are two versions of that same model refrigerator. One uses an inverter for the compressor and one doesn't. The motherboards are not interchangeable. I'll be here most of the day so take your laptop.
Thanks. I know how to check the thermistors, and your diagram will help me a lot. One question which may sound stupid: when I check the amperage across compressor and defrost pins, does the connector need to be plugged in? Or will the board be trying to supply power anyway? I wasn't sure with this computerized board, if it would matter or not. Same question for the evap motor. If the plug is not connected, will the board still try to power it for me to check? And as a side note, I took pictures of both tags on the fridge to insure I didn't use a wrong model number. And I do have the original board right here. There is no component there for an inverter. So thankfully I can be pretty sure I have the right board and at least that part is correct. I will be heading over there shortly, and will bring my laptop. And thank you again for your help.
I suggest you don't do any measurements until we're done troubleshooting your problem or it will just get both of us confused. Don't post any measurements unless I ask for them. I'm getting older and I get confused easy.
OK, you're not listening to me. Follow my instructions or this thing will take forever. Go back and read post #10 and do that first.
Sorry. I was listening, but probably seemed like I was not. I wasn't going to post any readings unless you asked, as I remember you saying it gets confusing. Just thought the diagram was a suggestion as to what to check. Ok, will check the readings you suggested in 10, and will let you know what I get.
OK, your sure now? You must have edited this I got the email. Remove both connectors from the board. Make sure you have 120 VAC between L1 and J7-PIN #9
Plug both connectors back on the board and see if you still have 120 VAC between Line and J7-9. Then check for 120 VAC between COMP and J7-9. Set meter to DC volts and measure between J4-2 and J4-3 you should have 12VDC

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