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GE Profile Fridge PFSS6PKXCSS stopped cooling after power outage

Theweez

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2021
Messages
7
Location
New Jersey
Model Number
PFSS6PKXCSS
Brand
GE
Age
More than 10 years
After a power outage, our pfss6pkxcss fridge stopped cooling. At first, we noticed the front display was showing the old temps, but clearly these were inaccurate because it was no longer cool in there, so we turned-off the circuit breaker and left it off for 15 mins. When we turned it back on, the display now read the correct temps which were warm. The fan is running, but not the compressor.
We noticed a click sound, then 30 secs later another click, then these clicks would cycle like this every 3 mins., so we figured it was the relay and ordered one.
When it arrived, unplugged the fridge, touched the compressor, and it was very hot.
We removed the start relay and shook it. It did not make any noise and looked fine, but since we already ordered the part, we replaced it just in case. Then we plugged in the fridge, fan was running, but still not the compressor, and we could still hear the cycling of those clicks. We gave it 10 mins., but it never came on.
I unplugged the fridge again and used my Innova 3220 multimeter to test the old relay, but I’m not sure what the readings should be.
I also want to test the continuity on the overload and compressor, but I’m not sure what the readings should be on those either. I also don't know where the capacitor is, or I would test that, too. (I am tech savvy, but new to fixing my fridge.)
Here is a pic of the label of my compressor for reference.
Could someone help me know what the readings should be and any other advice would be great.
 

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rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
43,626
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Sounds like the compressor is bad and locked up. Here's how to check the compressor:
R -Compressor Windings.jpg

Here's how to check the relay and overload:
R-relay overload PTC.jpg

Your machine uses a run capacitor and it's not necessary for the compressor to run properly. The run cap is connected across the start windings and run windings usually on the relay.
Leave it off for now.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
43,626
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
An inverter compressor doesn't have a relay or overload. Your's is not an inverter type.
 

Theweez

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2021
Messages
7
Location
New Jersey
Hi Rick,
We finally were able to start troubleshooting this fridge again. I tested the old relay with the multimeter, and it is clearly shot.
I tested the new relay, and it reads a perfect 4.3 ohms.
Sadly, after installing the new relay, compressor still won’t turn-on.

We tested the compressor, and it seems to read ok, although the #’s did jump around quite a bit, but maybe it’s because it’s awkward holding the probes still while sitting on the floor: (CR=3, CS=8, RS=11).

I tested the overload, and I can’t really get a legitimate reading. It fluctuates all over the place.
I had already ordered a new overload, but it is still on back order.

If just the overload is bad, could that be the cause of the compressor not turning-on?
 

Theweez

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2021
Messages
7
Location
New Jersey
Thx! I guess we shall see what happns when the new overload arrives. I’ll post the results here.
 

Theweez

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2021
Messages
7
Location
New Jersey
Yes, sounds like the overload is bad.
I read that I can also troubleshoot by setting the multimeter to Volts ac, and put one probe on relay and one on the overload - and see if it is reading 120 v, and if it’s not reading 120v, then the compressor is the issue.

Would you also suggest that?

And if so, do I do this voltage test with the parts removed from fridge or while they are connected to the fridge while it’s plugged in and running?

And where do I place the probes on each part for this test, since it’s only one probe on each?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
43,626
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
You can check for 120 VAC at the compressor. If there's no voltage it doesn't mean the compressor is bad, it just means there's no voltage going to the compressor.
 
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